The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound
5 Year Member
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 1,789
Likes: 288
From: Wichita Falls, TX
My factory phasers had the L and R marks on them ('06 5.4L 3 valve). The replacement phasers I bought from Rock Auto are made by Melling (or are refurbished Ford OEM phasers, not sure) and they have the L and R marks on them.
Did you do any research before doing the timing on your engine? Watch the four part series by FordTechMakuloco on doing the 5.4L 3 valve timing job?
I'd also suggest replacing the phasers with new Ford OEM Motorcraft (Melling is acceptable) phasers
Did you do any research before doing the timing on your engine? Watch the four part series by FordTechMakuloco on doing the 5.4L 3 valve timing job?
I'd also suggest replacing the phasers with new Ford OEM Motorcraft (Melling is acceptable) phasers
Last edited by ShirBlackspots; Jan 11, 2020 at 11:14 PM.
LightningRod
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 2,412
Likes: 651
From: San Antonio Texas
@ShirBlackspots Thanks for the response. both stock phasers have the L marking on them with another "I" marking 180 degree opposite. I was wondering why I didn't have an R on the passenger side. Should I replace phasers
EMPHASIS ADDED!
"" or maybe just rotate the passenger side 180 degrees?"" END EMPASIS ADDED!
EMPHASIS ADDED!
"" or maybe just rotate the passenger side 180 degrees?"" END EMPASIS ADDED!
5 Year Member
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 430
Likes: 55
Must
@ShirBlackspots Thanks for the response. both stock phasers have the L marking on them with another "I" marking 180 degree opposite. I was wondering why I didn't have an R on the passenger side. Should i replace phasers or maybe just rotate the passenger side 180 degrees?
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Owner
Ever since hearing my first 5.4 Tick, I have been online looking for an answer.
The First truck I did, I changed the phasers (one of them had the spring "sprung") Noise went away for 2 months and came back, just not as loud.
Upon inspecting the phasers again, all looked okay, but I read about oiling problem, possible sludge, other issues.
Could the 5.4 just be this big of a pile of junk? NO! I didnt buy it. Why are some people getting 300,000 miles and others so few??
I noticed that the one chain had slack, when I removed the tensioner I saw the seal was questionable. Could this have been causing low oil pressure to the VCT system and a tick? Or was the new tick the chain not pumping up fully?
Well the chain set and tesioners fixed it. Its been almost a year and the truck runs great!
Reasons you get a 5.4 Tick
(other than normal injector noise)
-Bad Phasers
-Bad chains or guides
-Low oil pressure to phasers (most often the failing tesioners!!)
-Failing tesioners not putting proper tension on chain
-valve train problems (sticking lash adjuster, bad roller rocker, broken valve spring)
Now the good news, this can all be fixed during the same service!!
Don't just pull the valve covers, change phasers and hope the problem goes away.
Lets check all the possible trouble spots and fix your truck properly.
Please do not buy the "sludge is making your engine tick, you need a new one"
Look for sludge, if extreme sludge is present after removing the valve covers, it could be true, but many techs are telling customers this and IT IS NOT TRUE. Low oil pressure is often caused by these pesky tensioners, I have seen it more than once.
My next post will be a complete guide to repairing it, If you don't want to tackle it yourself, print this guide and show it to the tech working on your truck.
I know from being a mechanic, we don't like customers telling us whats wrong. Do yourself a solid, and make the tech aware of the problems.
Too many people are getting ripped off by a $1200.00 Phaser job that fixes nothing, or a simple "you need a new engine"
...Please wait I will upload photos and post the guide below this
The First truck I did, I changed the phasers (one of them had the spring "sprung") Noise went away for 2 months and came back, just not as loud.
Upon inspecting the phasers again, all looked okay, but I read about oiling problem, possible sludge, other issues.
Could the 5.4 just be this big of a pile of junk? NO! I didnt buy it. Why are some people getting 300,000 miles and others so few??
I noticed that the one chain had slack, when I removed the tensioner I saw the seal was questionable. Could this have been causing low oil pressure to the VCT system and a tick? Or was the new tick the chain not pumping up fully?
Well the chain set and tesioners fixed it. Its been almost a year and the truck runs great!
Reasons you get a 5.4 Tick
(other than normal injector noise)
-Bad Phasers
-Bad chains or guides
-Low oil pressure to phasers (most often the failing tesioners!!)
-Failing tesioners not putting proper tension on chain
-valve train problems (sticking lash adjuster, bad roller rocker, broken valve spring)
Now the good news, this can all be fixed during the same service!!
Don't just pull the valve covers, change phasers and hope the problem goes away.
Lets check all the possible trouble spots and fix your truck properly.
Please do not buy the "sludge is making your engine tick, you need a new one"
Look for sludge, if extreme sludge is present after removing the valve covers, it could be true, but many techs are telling customers this and IT IS NOT TRUE. Low oil pressure is often caused by these pesky tensioners, I have seen it more than once.
My next post will be a complete guide to repairing it, If you don't want to tackle it yourself, print this guide and show it to the tech working on your truck.
I know from being a mechanic, we don't like customers telling us whats wrong. Do yourself a solid, and make the tech aware of the problems.
Too many people are getting ripped off by a $1200.00 Phaser job that fixes nothing, or a simple "you need a new engine"
...Please wait I will upload photos and post the guide below this
I'm change all timing kit coz off noise
But I have a new problem in cold start there is nois for 5 second and after that when vibration for 2 to5 min simes it's like low oil prussure on cold
Any help?
5 Year Member
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 1,789
Likes: 288
From: Wichita Falls, TX
@Samer Nabulsi You probably did something incorrectly, but its a little difficult to diagnose what it is based on your description. Did you buy Ford/Motorcraft OEM and/or Melling parts?
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
I may have missed this on the previous 3685 posts, but I did search for it! 
A needed tools list! I love this post as it fixes one of the biggest problems with this truck and now they can run forever like the 50's trucks as long as we can get the parts! 
For a little background, I also worked on B-52's and F-15's Hydro Systems in the Air force and believe I can repair just about anything mechanical given a repair document. That said, I also don't do Ford truck repair's on my off-hours as a hobby. AKA I have basic craftsman tools, but I don't have any specialty automotive tools. For example, It's mentioned to drain the A/C and remove the pump. I did not know you could do that and be legal about it. I would think, and of course, I am probably wrong, that this requires some sort of evacuation pump and chamber?
So I humbly request a tools list of any specialty items needed to perform this job in total from prospective of a weekend warrior with just the basics that would need them before jumping in and going OH $#!#.
Thanks in advance!
_________________
2004 F-150 Lariat 5.4L 3V Super-Cab NBS, purchased new 8/2004 in New Orleans at Lamarque Ford, currently, 75350 original miles -- Current mods: ARE cap, Continental Cross Contact LX20 tires, stylized tail light lens, K&N Filter kit 57-2556,
A needed tools list! I love this post as it fixes one of the biggest problems with this truck and now they can run forever like the 50's trucks as long as we can get the parts! For a little background, I also worked on B-52's and F-15's Hydro Systems in the Air force and believe I can repair just about anything mechanical given a repair document. That said, I also don't do Ford truck repair's on my off-hours as a hobby. AKA I have basic craftsman tools, but I don't have any specialty automotive tools. For example, It's mentioned to drain the A/C and remove the pump. I did not know you could do that and be legal about it. I would think, and of course, I am probably wrong, that this requires some sort of evacuation pump and chamber?So I humbly request a tools list of any specialty items needed to perform this job in total from prospective of a weekend warrior with just the basics that would need them before jumping in and going OH $#!#.
Thanks in advance!
_________________
2004 F-150 Lariat 5.4L 3V Super-Cab NBS, purchased new 8/2004 in New Orleans at Lamarque Ford, currently, 75350 original miles -- Current mods: ARE cap, Continental Cross Contact LX20 tires, stylized tail light lens, K&N Filter kit 57-2556,
Last edited by Avalonswan; Jun 20, 2020 at 12:15 AM.
LightningRod
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 2,412
Likes: 651
From: San Antonio Texas
With your background I have NO doubt you could do the job just fine with help of youtube video series by FordmakeULoco, and a dose of encouragement from Forum members here. There are only a couple of stupid simple gatcha's in the process.
Your basic craftsman tools (if it includes AT LEAST a complete set of metric and standard sockets of 3/8", and preferably some 1/2" ratchets and breaker bar) will do largest part of the job. You have to have a #27 Torqux. You'll need a fairly long extension for Power Steering Bracket/to block - and a wiggle tail helps.
There are some "EXPENSIVE" special tools (most of which a little ingenuity, and an occasional helper, will circumvent).
Crank positioning tool. (I eye-balled mine, and did the job without it.)
Phaser Gear holding tool. (I used the old timing chain around the sprocket and clamped under a bolt to hold it)
Valve Spring Compressor. (I lifted and reinstalled cam caps to release / replace roller/followers & lash adjusters.)
Fan Holding Tool (I used a 3' length of chain under a fan pulley bolt to a bolt on the frame to keep if from turning.)
Some feel they need a 3/4 impact for front crankshaft pulley. You will need a "LARGE SOCKET" and breakover. I had a friend brace a tire iron against the flywheel to keep engine from turning while I broke the front pulley bolt loose. etc. etc. etc.
One _LONG_ Power Steering Pump bolt is "PURE HELL". Basically no special tool for it - except patients and a thousand flips of a open end. You could rent a PS Pulley puller - but it really does not totally cure the problem completely.
Best is to open a thread and you can count on great help and quick answers to questions.
EDIT: Afterthought. OH BY THE WAY. If you have not changed Spark Plugs.... Don't even think about doing it without the Lisle (broken spark plug removal tool).
EDIT 2: Another thing that comes to mind - to do it right you HAVE TO have a decent Torque Wrench. (How could I forget)
Your basic craftsman tools (if it includes AT LEAST a complete set of metric and standard sockets of 3/8", and preferably some 1/2" ratchets and breaker bar) will do largest part of the job. You have to have a #27 Torqux. You'll need a fairly long extension for Power Steering Bracket/to block - and a wiggle tail helps.
There are some "EXPENSIVE" special tools (most of which a little ingenuity, and an occasional helper, will circumvent).
Crank positioning tool. (I eye-balled mine, and did the job without it.)
Phaser Gear holding tool. (I used the old timing chain around the sprocket and clamped under a bolt to hold it)
Valve Spring Compressor. (I lifted and reinstalled cam caps to release / replace roller/followers & lash adjusters.)
Fan Holding Tool (I used a 3' length of chain under a fan pulley bolt to a bolt on the frame to keep if from turning.)
Some feel they need a 3/4 impact for front crankshaft pulley. You will need a "LARGE SOCKET" and breakover. I had a friend brace a tire iron against the flywheel to keep engine from turning while I broke the front pulley bolt loose. etc. etc. etc.
One _LONG_ Power Steering Pump bolt is "PURE HELL". Basically no special tool for it - except patients and a thousand flips of a open end. You could rent a PS Pulley puller - but it really does not totally cure the problem completely.
Best is to open a thread and you can count on great help and quick answers to questions.
EDIT: Afterthought. OH BY THE WAY. If you have not changed Spark Plugs.... Don't even think about doing it without the Lisle (broken spark plug removal tool).
EDIT 2: Another thing that comes to mind - to do it right you HAVE TO have a decent Torque Wrench. (How could I forget)
Last edited by F150Torqued; Jun 22, 2020 at 09:12 AM. Reason: spelling an afterthought
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Com
This is the 15th or so time I have done this job. Used all new parts, however, this time I am getting a check engine light and issues with power loss.
Codes are generic
P0012
And
P0021
I am thinking possible bad VVT solenoids (yes they are brand new).
Thoughts?
Codes are generic
P0012
And
P0021
I am thinking possible bad VVT solenoids (yes they are brand new).
Thoughts?