The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound
04-17-2019, 11:39 AM
#3601
Oil pump
Good write up.......
Its worth considering new gaskets for the front cover and valve covers but these are good thick types and can be re-used if okay.
Factor in Oil and filter change at the same time. (air fitler and throttle body clean too maybe).
Clean and visually check cam sensors and crank sensor.
Pullies and serpentine belt
New coolant
Adequate puller for the crank pulley
Torque wrench that allows light torque for camshaft and timing parts 89 inch pounds in not a lot!
May be a good time to do your spark plugs too with better access with the valve covers removed!
Its worth considering new gaskets for the front cover and valve covers but these are good thick types and can be re-used if okay.
Factor in Oil and filter change at the same time. (air fitler and throttle body clean too maybe).
Clean and visually check cam sensors and crank sensor.
Pullies and serpentine belt
New coolant
Adequate puller for the crank pulley
Torque wrench that allows light torque for camshaft and timing parts 89 inch pounds in not a lot!
May be a good time to do your spark plugs too with better access with the valve covers removed!
06-03-2019, 03:12 PM
#3602
Senior Member
Yeah, the Melling M340HV is 20% more volume, resulting in a hot idle pressure of around 40-45psi (stock is 25-30psi when working correctly)
I bought all Melling parts from Rock Auto. The timing set with cast iron chain tensioners, VCT solenoids, cam phasers (phasers and solenoids having the updated design) and Melling M340HV oil pump.
I bought all Melling parts from Rock Auto. The timing set with cast iron chain tensioners, VCT solenoids, cam phasers (phasers and solenoids having the updated design) and Melling M340HV oil pump.
06-03-2019, 11:34 PM
#3603
Senior Member
just use ford stuff watch the fordtechmakeuloco video get the melling 360 and just do it. i have 262k on truck did the job from lifter,vct valve,down to a new water pump and melling oil pump steel adjusters all genuine ford stuff use 5 30 mobile one and burns about half qt every 5k. dont listen to the guys that wanted to do it cheap. the fix is temporary with stuff especially phasers. the job is tough enough without having to do it twice. did you buy the crank alignment tool.
the new 4 hole bosch injectors improved my mph rpm differential by nearly 5mph. Lock outs are hit and miss.
the new 4 hole bosch injectors improved my mph rpm differential by nearly 5mph. Lock outs are hit and miss.
not that much trouble the engine was not using any oil at the time . when i pulled the covers everything was fine nice and clean. micked the cam and hardly any wear. total cost was around 1500 for everything and bought parts over a year. most parts came from oem direct or from ebay bought the tools from amazon. i have driven to louisiana, montana,northern california and washington and hauled a trailer back from colorado springs. the engine sounds great and has good compression and no noise. why would i rebuild? I change all fluids regularly. The previous owner had the tranny rebuilt and rear end. I followed all the service bulletins when i got the truck at 100k. He worked for ford when he got the truck. If this engine goes I'll get the Jasper Engine at around 6K and drive for another 35K. I like the truck . I upgraded the Front Struts and rear coil overs. Put new upgraded front Hubs and clean the throttle Body every year along with changing the antifreeze. By the way My last trip up to Montana and back I averaged nearly 18MPG with the new Bosch Injectors and at 77MPH my Tach reads right at 2K. Before it was 69 at 2K. These are great trucks and the 5.4 with the correct changes applied is a great engine. The reason why I finally did it was That I started hearing a noise from the front and sure enough one of the guides was broke in half and the cheap crap plastic adjuster had failed. Thats why I got the Steel ones if they fail they stay up.
Last edited by ShirBlackspots; 06-03-2019 at 11:51 PM.
07-11-2019, 05:37 PM
#3604
Junior Member
Hello I'm new to the forum and currently in the process of doing a full timing kit upgrade. I apologize if this has been answered previously but there is 361 pages to this thread and its hard to sift through all of it!
I'm a little nervous about the timing on this vehicle even though I have followed the OP's directions almost to a T. My cam lobes on the LH Driver side do not seem to be lined up properly, however I called the Cloyes techs and asked them about it, they claim that as long as the sprockets are installed correctly and the chains line up with the correct timing dots on both the crankshaft sprocket and the camshaft sprocket that the chains themselves are what time the vehicle, and I should be okay. I just want to see what you guys say because I don't want to go ahead and put all the pulleys and stuff on and learn that my engine is completely out of time, it has already taken a lot of blood sweat and tears to get to this point lol.
I'm a little nervous about the timing on this vehicle even though I have followed the OP's directions almost to a T. My cam lobes on the LH Driver side do not seem to be lined up properly, however I called the Cloyes techs and asked them about it, they claim that as long as the sprockets are installed correctly and the chains line up with the correct timing dots on both the crankshaft sprocket and the camshaft sprocket that the chains themselves are what time the vehicle, and I should be okay. I just want to see what you guys say because I don't want to go ahead and put all the pulleys and stuff on and learn that my engine is completely out of time, it has already taken a lot of blood sweat and tears to get to this point lol.
07-11-2019, 09:15 PM
#3606
LightningRod
Hello I'm new to the forum and currently in the process of doing a full timing kit upgrade. I apologize if this has been answered previously but there is 361 pages to this thread and its hard to sift through all of it!
I'm a little nervous about the timing on this vehicle even though I have followed the OP's directions almost to a T. My cam lobes on the LH Driver side do not seem to be lined up properly, however I called the Cloyes techs and asked them about it, they claim that as long as the sprockets are installed correctly and the chains line up with the correct timing dots on both the crankshaft sprocket and the camshaft sprocket that the chains themselves are what time the vehicle, and I should be okay. I just want to see what you guys say because I don't want to go ahead and put all the pulleys and stuff on and learn that my engine is completely out of time, it has already taken a lot of blood sweat and tears to get to this point lol.
I'm a little nervous about the timing on this vehicle even though I have followed the OP's directions almost to a T. My cam lobes on the LH Driver side do not seem to be lined up properly, however I called the Cloyes techs and asked them about it, they claim that as long as the sprockets are installed correctly and the chains line up with the correct timing dots on both the crankshaft sprocket and the camshaft sprocket that the chains themselves are what time the vehicle, and I should be okay. I just want to see what you guys say because I don't want to go ahead and put all the pulleys and stuff on and learn that my engine is completely out of time, it has already taken a lot of blood sweat and tears to get to this point lol.
The Cloyes techs did not mislead you. Being a FOUR stroke engine, cylinder one comes up on TDC once on compression stroke (which establishes the cam lobe positions in a certain way), then once on the exhaust stroke (where cam lobes - which rotate 1/2 the speed of Crankshaft - are positioned completely different). But the "RELATIONSHIP" between crank and cams is still the same. So yes, one can be timed in that position - just fine - without ill effect. The HUGE ISSUE is, once shut down and positioned to TDC on cyl 1 (crank dot at 6:00 o'clock) and chains/guides are removed ----- that the CAMS or CRANK is not moved before aligning chain marks with gear marks and button it back up.
07-11-2019, 09:35 PM
#3607
Junior Member
Thanks a lot for your replies. I think I may have messed up as i needed to move the cams in order to get the chains lined up. Or in other words I didnt have the R and L in a place that would line up before I took apart the assembly. I feel so dumb at this point because I honestly feel like I screwed up what should be a fairly simple procedure.
07-11-2019, 09:49 PM
#3608
LightningRod
CAUTION is the word of the day! Did you position the crank (ie: keyway or crank dot) at a specific point before teardown? If so, and cams were "generally" locked down when phasers were removed - you should be OK.
The valve springs put torque on the camshaft lobes via followers and - without any followers removed - you have to 'fight' valve spring tension- a few degrees on phasers (maybe 10 degrees) to get the colored chain links to straddle the phaser marks. Is that about what you are talking about?
The valve springs put torque on the camshaft lobes via followers and - without any followers removed - you have to 'fight' valve spring tension- a few degrees on phasers (maybe 10 degrees) to get the colored chain links to straddle the phaser marks. Is that about what you are talking about?
07-11-2019, 09:58 PM
#3609
Junior Member
I positioned the keyway at 12 oclock if I recall correctly. The Cam phasers though were basically backwards, so I put thr chains back on and recranked the camshaft around again 360 to get the cam phasers in the correct position. So I feel like the relationship should be okay still? Sorry if Im not descriptive enough, currently away from my truck for thr night but Ill be back at it tomorrow
07-11-2019, 11:11 PM
#3610
LightningRod
Ugh? Maybe you beat Murphy better than I usually do. If you "put the chains back on" (even close to where they were - without letting either cam get FAR off from its original relationship to CRANK), then rotate the engine one revolution --- the only risk there would have been was valve contact if things were off a little. My suspicion centers around the likely probability the chain marks (IF there were any on factory chains) do not align but once each Sixty-One (61) crankshaft revolutions - and then valves are on the opposite stroke (compression/exhaust). They don't line up perfectly but once every 122 engine revolutions.
But if you did not use 'starter' to rotate, and/or did not hit any HEAVY rotational resistance rotating crank (or try to rotate cams themselves with followers in and without chains on) - you _SHOULDN'T_ have encountered valve / piston contact. The confusing part of your prior statement(s) is: If crank keyway was at 11 - 12 o'clock (somewhere around there), the Phaser timing marks should have been roughly on top of phasers where they should be --- just maybe "R" and "L" on opposite sides (WHICH CONDITION I say doesn't matter. That's just timing on exhaust stroke instead of compression stroke. MOX NIX). BUT, if you put chains back on and rotated crank one revolution - "R" and "L" marks would then be on proper sides ("L" on drivers side) - and you initially said cam lobes aren't looking proper positioned ?????
But if you did not use 'starter' to rotate, and/or did not hit any HEAVY rotational resistance rotating crank (or try to rotate cams themselves with followers in and without chains on) - you _SHOULDN'T_ have encountered valve / piston contact. The confusing part of your prior statement(s) is: If crank keyway was at 11 - 12 o'clock (somewhere around there), the Phaser timing marks should have been roughly on top of phasers where they should be --- just maybe "R" and "L" on opposite sides (WHICH CONDITION I say doesn't matter. That's just timing on exhaust stroke instead of compression stroke. MOX NIX). BUT, if you put chains back on and rotated crank one revolution - "R" and "L" marks would then be on proper sides ("L" on drivers side) - and you initially said cam lobes aren't looking proper positioned ?????
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