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Could it be the CAM position sensor isn't seeing the position or failed some how? When the dealer did the timing job on mine, I got about 10 miles out, made a stop and when I restarted the check engine light came on. It was running like it had a slight miss to it. Took it back and they found that one of the tabs on the phasers was slightly bent. Thus the sensor was only seeing 2 of the 3 tabs. They bent it into place and never an issue since. Maybe one of the tabs is bent out of place.
Just a thought.
i am assuming you put new cam and crank position sensors in and cleaned the reluctor wheel.
I've heard there is a steel option to replaced the OEM plastic tensioner arms and guides on the 5.4 3V. Anybody know if this is accurate and where I can find them?
When I did my timing job I used the metal MMR 'Arms', but they didn't have metal 'guides' (only tensioner arms) or I couldn't find them. ( as the 'guides' are always what breaks anyway). MMR was a pleasure to deal with and I am completely happy 31k miles post timing job.
Last edited by F150Torqued; 04-09-2019 at 09:22 AM.
Reason: added photo
I've heard there is a steel option to replaced the OEM plastic tensioner arms and guides on the 5.4 3V. Anybody know if this is accurate and where I can find them?
You do not want a heavy metal chain (with rough edges) sliding over a steel/aluminum guide, as there would be considerable wear, even with decent oil changes. Metal filings circulating through the engine would make a lot more damage than plastic powder, which would get caught in the oil filter and pass through the engine without wear until it gets caught (excepting damaged guides). Plastic guides can go over 300k miles as long as chain tension is maintained. The softer plastic surface of those aluminum tensioner arms would wear until nonexistent, and then the steel chain beats into the aluminum, creating metal that won't be picked up by a magnetic drain plug. The guides in that picture are still plastic, and those are what often shatter, particularly on the starboard side, as that is where the chain's catenary beats against the guide.
Last edited by dukedkt442; 04-09-2019 at 01:52 PM.
You do not want a heavy metal chaine (with rough edges) sliding over a steel guide, as there would be considerable wear, even with decent oil changes. Metal filings circulating through the engine would make a lot more damage than plastic, which would get caught in the oil filter and pass through the engine without wear until it gets caught (excepting being damaged guides). Plastic guides can go over 300k miles as long as chain tension is maintained. The softer surface of those presumably aluminum tensioner arms would wear until nonexistant, and then the steel chain beats into the aluminum, creating metal that won't be picked up by a magnetic drain plug. The guides in that picture are still plastic, and those are what often shatter, particularly on the starboard side, as that is where the chain's catenary beats against the guide.
The metal guides have a plastic(ish) wear pad on them. It’s not metal on metal
The metal guides have a plastic(ish) wear pad on them. It’s not metal on metal
It will be once the loose chains beat the hell out of them and the plastic separates from the aluminum. The tenioner arms aren't typically the items that shatter anyway, it's the guides, which in the picture above are factory, so billet arms are waste of money IMO. If the chains have tension (meaning your tensioners haven't failed) the factory guides/arms will last the life of the truck.
Last edited by dukedkt442; 04-09-2019 at 01:53 PM.
The metal guides have a plastic(ish) wear pad on them. It’s not metal on metal
I don't know if it's 'plastic(ish)' or what it is. "Teflon" or something. But it appeared to be the same stuff that lined my ole Factory tensioner arms. WHICH BTW - was not worn through at 212,000 miles when I did my timing job.
Originally Posted by dukedkt442
It will be once the loose chains beat the hell out of them and the plastic separates from the aluminum. The tenioner arms aren't typically the items that shatter anyway, it's the guides, which in the picture above are factory, so billet arms are waste of money IMO. If the chains have tension (meaning your tensioners haven't failed) the factory guides/arms will last the life of the truck.
I can't argue with the "so billet arms are a waste of money". But I still wish I could have found 'guides' made the same -substantial- way. I would have definitely used them. The Chains are not going to beat the hell out tensioner arms. The tensioner are always pushing any slack back on that side even with sloppy oil pressure / tensioners. Slack (that can't be eliminated by arms/tensioners) will always appear on the other side to whip the hell out of guides.
MMR hypes that the billet tensioner won't 'FLEX' under high rpm (higher oil pressure) conditions, thus better keeping slack out of the long chain. Of course - I can't verify that, nor could anyone else. We'll just have to see if I get 200k miles out of these - and I definitely am not averse to high RPM occasionally entering a freeway or if a Dodge/Chevy stops along side me at a red light.
I can't argue with the "so billet arms are a waste of money". But I still wish I could have found 'guides' made the same -substantial- way. I would have definitely used them. The Chains are not going to beat the hell out tensioner arms. The tensioner are always pushing any slack back on that side even with sloppy oil pressure / tensioners. Slack (that can't be eliminated by arms/tensioners) will always appear on the other side to whip the hell out of guides.
For the most part, I agree they *shouldn't" get beat up, but I learned long ago to avoid terms like "always" or "never." For example, airbox leaks upstream of the air filter shouldn't cause lean codes, yet there was a Ford TSB advising that they could. The port side would be more prone to tensioner damage than starboard because that's where the chain catenary is, but agreed to a much lesser extent than the passenger side guide. But as you say, the guides fail more often anyway, so I don't see the need for the billet arms, or any increased risk of metal on metal. Guides with tephlon would get beat up with chain slack, and eventually would be metal on metal. JMO.
Last edited by dukedkt442; 04-10-2019 at 10:56 AM.
04-08-2019, 11:44 AM
good point
5.4 3V Tensioner Arms and Guids
