The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound
11-27-2018, 07:28 PM
#3522
I just wanted to stop by and say thank you! I replaced complete timing gear plus lifters/rollers and truck fired up like new! Actually it is quieter then when I bought new as it had a tick the day I drove it off the lot. Unfortunately somewhere along the line I must have cracked oil dipstick tube because that broke off when I checked oil before starting. But after all that work it didn’t stop me from firing it up! Tube is on order and hopefully old one pops out easy enough and truck will be on the road once again. Thanks again!
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F150Torqued (11-29-2018)
01-07-2019, 12:24 PM
#3523
Senior Member
We're working on a 2005 model with 200,000 miles on it. The timing set has been replaced a few times in this trucks life. Currently, the truck is down again and the timing chain guides literally broke and scattered into pieces on the driver side, while the passenger side guides are OK but the phaser spring is all jacked up. Garbage.
Anyhow... I noticed that Melling sells a high volume oil pump which we are going to use this time. But they also sell cast iron chain guides. Can anybody comment on the cast iron guides vs. the plastic ones? Good idea or no?
Anyhow... I noticed that Melling sells a high volume oil pump which we are going to use this time. But they also sell cast iron chain guides. Can anybody comment on the cast iron guides vs. the plastic ones? Good idea or no?
01-07-2019, 12:47 PM
#3524
Senior Member
Hey bud, the general consensus after reading through all of these pages is to use the cast iron tensioners. These don’t have silicone seals to blow out and also have a ratcheting mechanism that keeps the chain tight in case of oil pressure drop. I’ve also heard from reputable mechanics that Ford has redesigned the plastic tensioners to have a better seal and thus reducing risk of the seal degrading due to heat cycles and age. Both would be fine, especially if you buy the Ford OEM set on Amazon. It comes with everything you need minus the valve cover gaskets and VCT solenoids. Definitely use Melling’s high volume pump, although the stock volume Melling offers is also good. If the timing has been replaced multiple times, it wasn’t done properly. Make sure to drop the oil pan and clean out the pickup tube of any debris that may have gotten sucked up when the guides broke. If done properly, the timing should easily go another 150,000 and more miles especially with proper oil changes.
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WXman (01-07-2019)
01-07-2019, 01:00 PM
#3525
Senior Member
I read that wrong. They are cast iron tensioners, NOT chain guides. Makes sense.
Thanks for the response. We're planning to do cam lockouts or solid piece units, no more cam phasers. Also the M360HV oil pump. And cast iron tensioners. Hopefully these things will make the engine last this time.
Thanks for the response. We're planning to do cam lockouts or solid piece units, no more cam phasers. Also the M360HV oil pump. And cast iron tensioners. Hopefully these things will make the engine last this time.
01-07-2019, 01:03 PM
#3526
Senior Member
If you lock the cam phasers out, you’ll lose a few MPG’s and power and torque but if that’s alright, then there’s no harm in locking them out. Only thing is, definitely make sure that pickup tube is cleaned because otherwise locking out the phasers won’t help since the low oil pressure situation is still there. Good practice would be to also check your roller rockers and hydraulic lash adjusters for any flat spots or abnormal wear. Replace those as needed 
*edit*
You May or may not know, but if you use lockouts then you’ll need an ECM tune to accommodate that and to not set off any check engine lights
*edit*
You May or may not know, but if you use lockouts then you’ll need an ECM tune to accommodate that and to not set off any check engine lights
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WXman (01-07-2019)
01-07-2019, 01:50 PM
#3527
Senior Member
One more question:
Should we use a cam phaser lockout kit or is there such thing as a one piece sprocket that eliminates the phaser completely? Also, do we NEED a tuner for the check engine light or will we be OK without it?
Should we use a cam phaser lockout kit or is there such thing as a one piece sprocket that eliminates the phaser completely? Also, do we NEED a tuner for the check engine light or will we be OK without it?
01-07-2019, 01:52 PM
#3528
Senior Member
If you have your heart set on the lockout, I think you can only use a phaser sprocket. I don’t believe you could for example take a 4.6 timing sprocket (same year but no cam phasers on this engine) an swap it. And I’m fairly sure you’ll need a tune because the computer will try to advance or retard timing and it won’t understand why it can’t. I believe I’ve read that it could reduce power or cause other issues if you don’t tune it
01-21-2019, 12:22 PM
#3530
Junior Member
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First off, thanks for everyone who posts in forums like these...they help a lot. Second, I'm about to tackle a complete timing set/oil pump replacement on my '04. I only have about 93k miles on it, and it still runs good, but I am starting to get the "diesel" sound, have a lumpy idle sometimes when it's really hot, and I get a tap tap when I start it up until the tensioner pumps up, so I am sure I have a blown seal on one of the tensioners.
I've read everything on the tensioners...plastic ones...cast metal ones...etc. I just started getting all of my parts sorted out and intend to order all OEM parts. However, I found something interesting that I cannot explain that I am hoping someone on here can help out with. I've gone to several Ford Parts sites just to verify p/n's, prices, etc. and just about every site shows the Right tensioner as 1L3Z-6L266-AA...which is plastic and consistent with everything I've read. Everything I've read also says the Left "upgraded" Tensioner should be XL1Z-6L266-AA...however, many of the Ford Parts sites are showing this part number to be obsolete and the new part to be F6AZ-6L266-CA. Closer investigation shows that this part is cast metal, not plastic.
Basically Ford is telling you to use the Cast Metal tensioner for the Left Side and the Plastic tensioner for the Right. I know they are supposed to be equivalent parts, with the Metal ones mostly considered superior, I just find it curious that Ford is now saying...specifically...use the Metal ones.
Any insight from anyone before I pull the trigger on parts?
I've read everything on the tensioners...plastic ones...cast metal ones...etc. I just started getting all of my parts sorted out and intend to order all OEM parts. However, I found something interesting that I cannot explain that I am hoping someone on here can help out with. I've gone to several Ford Parts sites just to verify p/n's, prices, etc. and just about every site shows the Right tensioner as 1L3Z-6L266-AA...which is plastic and consistent with everything I've read. Everything I've read also says the Left "upgraded" Tensioner should be XL1Z-6L266-AA...however, many of the Ford Parts sites are showing this part number to be obsolete and the new part to be F6AZ-6L266-CA. Closer investigation shows that this part is cast metal, not plastic.
Basically Ford is telling you to use the Cast Metal tensioner for the Left Side and the Plastic tensioner for the Right. I know they are supposed to be equivalent parts, with the Metal ones mostly considered superior, I just find it curious that Ford is now saying...specifically...use the Metal ones.
Any insight from anyone before I pull the trigger on parts?
Last edited by 4TXTECH; 01-21-2019 at 12:25 PM.