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My replacement aftermarket camshaft arrived for my top end job. In comparing it to the original, everything looks like a match except for the notches/slots in the thrust bearing. The slots are the same in number and size, but they're in different positions. What are they for and does it matter?
I don't know if it is 'APPLICABLE' in your case (from profile can't determine your year model), but it looks like there could be a problem with year/model compatibility. The CAM must be matched with the CRANKSHAFT throws.
It could have something to do with "left" / "right".
??????
Check with Vendor / Ford Dealer / VIN # type stuff before proceeding.
I'd never have guessed that the notches were code for the cam's fitment. I was wondering how one could identify the cams as there's no markings on the box or on the shaft itself, save for a stamp on the end with the brand name.
Do do you happen to have the cipher for 2010, or can you please point me to where I could find it?
Do do you happen to have the cipher for 2010, or can you please point me to where I could find it?
I'm sorry. I don't. Actually don't know the diagram is applicable to you model or situation. But recalling the attached page when I read your post took my breath away. I just wanted to make you aware before proceeding. I have read posts about guys unexpectedly bending valves when changing cams. It may only have to do with Bank1 or Bank2 - but when it does not match --- Inspect relationship of lobes to the phaser alignment pin VERY CAREFULLY.
I apologize if the question has been asking before, but is there any advantage in using the plastic tensioners over the cast iron tensioners?
Edit: To add additional context to the question, my intent is to go with cast iron. Is there any reason why I should choose plastic is what I am asking.
I apologize if the question has been asking before, but is there any advantage in using the plastic tensioners over the cast iron tensioners?
Edit: To add additional context to the question, my intent is to go with cast iron. Is there any reason why I should choose plastic is what I am asking.
go metal. the plastic ones were a 'cost cutting' measure by Ford. they went back to ratcheting metal for the 5.0 and 6.2.
So, I've already ordered my M360 oil pump, but I decided to go to Melling's website and do some looking around on parts in general and check out what I found. Two new high volume oil pumps.
I have no special knowledge about it but the links you provided looks like the 360 is their recommendation for the 32 valve 5.4's. And the 340 is what they recommend for the 24 valve models. Seems to me that the 32 valve one would actually need more flow to supply oil to the extra lash adjusters / followers (which each represents a 'leak' point). That makes me think the 360 would push greater volume. ????
But I went with their 10340 on my timing job - BECAUSE it supposedly was High Volume and High Pressure. (does that make it a 360???) I think the only thing that makes it a high pressure is a different spring in the bypass relief valve. And I know volume/pressure are directly related as is rpm of a gearator type pump. (Kinda depends on how worn bearing surfaces are at a given flow rate. ???) Mine seems to relieve around 90-92 lbs depending on oil temperature. It will idle at that when cranked COLD for a minute or two (with 5/30w Syn) - saging slowly down to 22, 25 when full hot, in gear, A/C on (~590-600 R's).
19K miles later - I'm perfectly happy.
02-10-2018, 11:35 PM
