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The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound

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Old 01-21-2018, 01:07 PM   #3411
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I’ve seen several “Complete Kits” on EBay ranging from $140 to $850 for OEM Ford parts. As mentioned above, are several companies making these parts or one or two? I know you get what you pay for with a lot of things in life wondering it rings true with this?
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Old 01-21-2018, 01:49 PM   #3412
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I know you get what you pay for with a lot of things in life wondering it rings true with this?


Yes.
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Old 01-30-2018, 06:58 PM   #3413
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Default Cam lobe wear evaluation

I pulled the pasenger side valve cover and immediately found the source of the ticking: a bad roller follower. This is exactly what I expected to find given the symptoms (persistent ticking at all temps from startup to shutdown, without any performance issues).

Please look at the scoring on the affected cam lobe. I'm requesting opinions on its continued use. I'm not doing a full timing job so I'm hoping to just r/r the bad roller follower and call it good. I really don't want to replace the cam shaft if I don't have to.

Once the roller follower is temoved I'll inspect the lash adjuster and will replace it also if necessary. I'll also remove and inspect the remaining RF's.
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Old 01-30-2018, 08:35 PM   #3414
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If it was needed to serve as my main transportation for the long haul -- I would probably bite the bullet and replace the cam.


Having said that. I must recall my hot rod days of high school (many years ago), I meticulously used 'Emory cloth' and cleaned up a cam lobe (that ran directly on a 'lifter', instead of a roller), and got a number of good miles / races out of a 312 Ford V8. I would think if you make sure the lash adjuster oil passage ways are oiling the adjuster and roller follower as it should, it just might go for a long time if you an clean the roughness on the lobe nice and smooth.

Just a thought. Not necessarily a recommendation. But it's an intake valve - and as long as a new lash adjuster will take the slack out of the new roller/follower after you burnish the lobe clean - there would be no noticeable degradation to valve lift. Just make DOUBLE DOG SURE no grindings / shavings get into the works.


(BET I get pushback on this one!)
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Old 02-01-2018, 10:40 AM   #3415
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Gonna be super honest here, I'm having a hard time finding some information about sort of OEM replacement parts.

When I say sort of OEM, I mean FOMOCO parts, but not the OEM ones that went into this engine to begin with.

SO when you guys are replacing the innards, are you using the 2V tensioners like this and this? I thought that was a common swap for the OEM 3V tensioners...

Are the plastic chain guides a cause for concern? I briefly remember seeing someone mention using something else from a Mustang 5.4 that Ford Motor Racing made for guides...

I'm just trying to figure out what parts out of an OEM kit should be swapped for other parts and the search function for the thread itself has just an amazing number of hits that are vague.

Oh, I also know that the Melling 360 is one of the oil pumps of choice, so that's foregone.
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Old 02-01-2018, 11:43 AM   #3416
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Those tensioners look exactly like the ones I used. They came with thin metal gaskets, but the oil hole in the gasket did not match the oil port coming out of the block. However, the tensioner casting had a passageway cast in it that extended to the correct place. So, I used them mounted directly to the head. Both are machined surfaces and I see no issue with doing so. Also, the tensioner plunger aligned perfectly with the 'push point' on the back of the tensioner arms.


I have no knowledge of 'metal' guides. I did use the metal 'tensioner arms', but could never find any information on metal guides.


Phaser's are confusing. I found a vendor on Ebay (Fairway Ford) that sold 'Ford parts' on ebay and felt most comfortable going that route. They had the Ford Part # stamped in them. I was and am perfectly satisfied.



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Old 02-01-2018, 11:50 AM   #3417
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Those tensioners look exactly like the ones I used. They came with thin metal gaskets, but the oil hole in the gasket did not match the oil port coming out of the block. However, the tensioner casting had a passageway cast in it that extended to the correct place. So, I used them mounted directly to the head. Both are machined surfaces and I see no issue with doing so. Also, the tensioner plunger aligned perfectly with the 'push point' on the back of the tensioner arms.


I have no knowledge of 'metal' guides. I did use the metal 'tensioner arms', but could never find any information on metal guides.
You're right, not guides, the arms. Ford Motor Racing arms. Are those the ones for the 5.4 Mustang?

As for the actual other parts, SCREWFTW had a set from Modular Motor Racing in the for sale section I just picked up. All OEM Ford parts, per their claims.
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Old 02-01-2018, 12:04 PM   #3418
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elricfate View Post
Gonna be super honest here, I'm having a hard time finding some information about sort of OEM replacement parts.

When I say sort of OEM, I mean FOMOCO parts, but not the OEM ones that went into this engine to begin with.

SO when you guys are replacing the innards, are you using the 2V tensioners like this and this? I thought that was a common swap for the OEM 3V tensioners...

Are the plastic chain guides a cause for concern? I briefly remember seeing someone mention using something else from a Mustang 5.4 that Ford Motor Racing made for guides...

I'm just trying to figure out what parts out of an OEM kit should be swapped for other parts and the search function for the thread itself has just an amazing number of hits that are vague.

Oh, I also know that the Melling 360 is one of the oil pumps of choice, so that's foregone.
My tensioners were metal but I'm pretty sure they were the 3v design (non-ratcheting) all I specified was no plastic tensioners. My tensioner arms and guides were both plastic. I went with the assumption that if the tensioners hold up then the chains shouldn't slap and wont break them but I think the metal arms would be better.
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Old 02-01-2018, 12:07 PM   #3419
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My tensioners were metal but I'm pretty sure they were the 3v design (non-ratcheting) all I specified was no plastic tensioners. My tensioner arms and guides were both plastic. I went with the assumption that if the tensioners hold up then the chains shouldn't slap and wont break them but I think the metal arms would be better.
I like the idea of the ratcheting in the odd event that for whatever reason, the seal is less than great, the ratcheting design should pick up the slack and keep chain slap from becoming an issue. I just thought those were the right part numbers for our engines for that specific design, but I might be wrong.
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Old 02-01-2018, 01:27 PM   #3420
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I can't tell you the parts numbers for sure. Might be a good idea to find out the numbers of the newest revision and put them in the first post so they're front and center?
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