Blue2016XL

I agree with Ken. Everything I read so far says that at least the phasers should be Motorcraft at a minimum. Found a few reviews that show the Dormans falling apart and with not to many miles on them.

Holden1986

I would advise only using Ford parts period! I completed this project not long ago, this is a pretty serious repair for the engine. There is no need to risk using anything dorman at all for a repair of this caliber. I recommend the complete ford kit all the way, it's been updated over the years to fix the problems the earlier parts had.

LariatDude

WHat tensioners did you end up going with?

Holden1986

The ford non ratcheting ones, with the new silicone gasket they now have. Part numbers, 1L3Z-6L266-AA and XL1Z-6L266-AA I bought the whole kit from ebay $783.17. Seller was Freedom_Racing.

stankyjeans

I know this is an old thread, but a damn good one... Thanks for the fantastic write-up!

Ok, so my 2004 Triton just started this infamous ticking... I'm going to assume it's the Cam phasers. My truck has close to 170k miles on it (I bought it used at around 140 I think it was)... So if the truck has gone this far without the noise, I guess I should count myself lucky? I really want to rebuild or replace the entire engine and I still might, but if I can get a few more years out of it with a new timing kit, then I might go that route for now. My truck has always ran great and still does. It's just starting to feel her age.

I don't know of any repairs prior to me buying the truck, so I have no idea if the timing parts have been replaced before. If there's a way I could search repair history, I'd sure like to know. Perhaps I can search by VIN and with any luck repairs have been logged somewhere?

Anyhow... My question for today is:

What "timing kits" are good to purchase for this job and which ones should I run from? I did some parts hunting and it seems there are as many kits as there are opinions. Now obviously OEM is always your best bet, but it also comes with a hefty price tag. I figure as old as long as this problem has been around, there has to be a decent aftermarket brand to trust?

I've found kits ranging from around $800 (OEM) to $130 (aftermarket). I also read the reviews and many had sealing problems with the gaskets and/or seals that came with the kits. They recommend ditching those gaskets and replace with Felpro? Normally I try and stick with OEM gaskets and seals as first choice and Felpro as second, but their valve cover and timing cover gasket kits will set you back darn near the cost of an entire timing kit.

Anyhow, if those of you that have done this job with the aftermarket kits, please chime in? Which one do you recommend and where did you buy it from? For example, there are several on Amazon and Rock Auto, but the Rock Auto's don't come with the phasers. I want to buy a complete kit to replace it all while I'm in there.

I'm in no real hurry as it's winter here and colder than a dead Chevy... LOL... I plan to do this job in the late spring if the problem doesn't get any worse. From what I understand, the ticking noise is pretty much a nuisance until the CEL pops on, or the engine starts running bad.
So far none of that has happened. I'm **** when it comes to preventative maintenance and I don't like my gas engine sounding like a diesel with ball-bearings inside the cylinders!

Thanks,

LariatDude

Definitely stick with OEM even though it's expensive. The parts in it (phasers, tensioners etc) have been revised to prevent future problems. Avoid the $130 kits like you'd avoid a GM. Those really are "you get what you pay for." Some say use the old 2v metal tensioners since they have a ratchet mechanism that keeps chain tension in case of loss of oil pressure, but evidently the 3v plastic tensioner seals have been updated as well to prevent seal blowouts. Most certainly change the oil pump to the Melling M360 for increased oil flow, the stock pump is durable but has been known to provide weak flow in the first place. Then afterwards just switch to the 5w-30 oil weight. Not knocking the 5w-20 but 5w-30 seems to be the better choice for this V8, not to mention this exact engine first came out in Australia, before bringing it to the USA, under the name "Barra" and they call for 5w-30 oil.

Keshka

As an automotive machinist for 5 years and shop foreman (plus tight on funds), I was very pleased with the quality of the parts I purchased for $130. I have driven this truck everyday since as well as several 300 mile trips. She is doing great.

Point to remember....this thread exists because of bad OEM parts.

F150Torqued

LOL. Great point. But I guess truth be known that would apply to EVERY REPAIR THAT HAS EVER BEEN DONE. Will you please permit the excluding "DORMAN" Phasers from the list of expectable AM parts?

LariatDude

FAIR point, however as previously noted: the original parts have undergone multiple revisions to better them. Therefore you get OEM AND a solution to the initial problems. Although the only real issue here seemed to stem from the weak oil pump and the poor tensioner seals used. It’s yalls truck anyway, what ya use inside of them is always up to you!

stankyjeans

All good points for sure... and you've right, most people on the forums are most likely dealing with worn-out and/or failed OEM parts. I've read some posts that had thier phasers rattling at less than 50k miles. Man that would **** me off if I bought new, but it is what it is.. I'm considering myself extremely lucky if mine have never been replaced and I'm now pushing 170k. I'll chock this up as simple worn parts feeling thier age.

My biggest dilemma is whether to replace now as inexpensive as I can (with decent quality parts), before a catastrophic failure happens, OR do I continue letting it rattle, cross my fingers and rebuild the whole engine later on? I've only read about a few nasty breakdowns, but those people installed... you guessed it... cheaper aftermarket parts! So what do you believe? Was it the parts, or the skill level of Backyard-Joe mechanic, or both?

If it was truly bad cheaper-parts, then wouldn't you see far more negative reviews of those parts instead of a couple? I rely heavily on reviews before I buy parts like this (thus the reason I'm here asking those of you that have done the job and have first-hand results). Sure, I'd buy OEM if I could.. no question, but wow... that price tag...

I'm debating whether it's counter-productive to install new (expensive) parts on a 170k engine knowing full well it needs to be rebuilt soon. I've also considered finding another complete (lower mileage) engine, but then I simply inherit someone else's problem most likely.

I'm also wondering though... does FORD actually MAKE the timing parts themselves, (i.e... have thier own production lines with machinists/CNC's making these parts)... OR, considering how old some of our trucks are... are ALL the parts now being out-sourced and made by the lowest bidder? In other words.. would the REAL manufacturer please stand up?

I've worked in production manufacturing, so I understand a bit of it. Most large companies outsource their parts. It's simple business economics... get the part made by the lowest bidder.

So who really makes the expensive OEM parts and who makes the $130 ones?

What would you guys do on a 170k engine that just started to rattle?
My truck runs excellent other than the other infamous oil leak problem at the oil filter adapter.. I have the new gasket for that I plan to replace in the spring.

I also read about the 5w-30 oil. I have always used Motorcraft 5W-20 Synthetic and the FL820S Motorcraft filter... ALWAYS. I might give the 5-30 a try at the next change. I go 5000 between changes due to being synthetic instead of Dino-oil. In fact, my oil is barely dirty at 5k. This is the first vehicle I've ever used synthetic in and I must say, I'm impressed.


Thanks for the replies.. I love to read them all... good or bad!