Mycrazykidz

Its miles I was wondering because the right side is tight and the tensioner isn't fully extended. Thanks for your help

F150Torqued

If you slowly rotate the engine, BOTH chains will develop slack at different spots. That occurs because the irregular resistance forces posed by twin intake valves and one exhaust valve. When the resistance torques the phaser the other direction, the force is great enough to mash the tensioner plunger in (without oil pressure) and slack appears on the other half of the chain. Yours just happened to stop with right side in that spot.


If your in there that deep (to change tensioners) - I would certainly recommend doing some more and call it preventative maintenance if it doesn't need to be done. 260k miles is a darned good life for the long chains. You did good if you have never allowed misfires or backfires 'bust' one of the plastic guides. But certainly they have wear on the surfaces where chains rub. If not I want to use the type oil you're usin'. lol


Phaser's _CAN_ be changed without removing the front cover. So I wouldn't beat you up on changing them if there are no symptoms. They could be done later along with lash adjusters & roller followers. But while in the front cover, I'd SURE do chains, Guides, tensioners (the metal ratcheting type) _AND_ oil pump. And I'd be willing to bet I'd find support here for that opinion.


Good luck - and keep up whatever you are doing. It MUST be right!

Brad V

Has anyone found any new advise for me? I had a mechanic over Sunday and we searched the truck over and cannot identify where it’s coming from (the noise in the video). He is taking it to work Wed to put on rack. He suggested pulling the engine and going thru it??? Seems costly to me and would only like to do that if its my only option. But if your gonna pull it wouldn’t it just make sense to put a reman engine in its place??? Need help bad. Truck is parked as im afraid to drive it.

Keshka

Brad, unfortunately, recorded sounds do not always tell the whole story. The frequency of your noise seems related to your valve train. I suspect a stuck lifter. I can also be caused by a failed cam lob. Since the sound is so rhythmic I don't feel it is related to the chains and guide rails. I would suggest you remove the valve covers and look as your next step. You can see a great deal with those covers off.

Do a visual of the cams. The level of noise you have, it should be obvious finding a failed lifter or lob.

Try that and report your findings. There are many thing to look at before replacing the engine

Holden1986

Hey guys, I have a question. I watched the 4 part series of FordTechMakuloco's timing repair etc. I was wondering, is it mandatory to remove all of the roller followers or just the 3 he removed, before removing the timing components? He also put the crankshaft key way in the 12 o'clock position before removing the 3 roller followers. Is there another way to do the timing without removing the roller followers and the camshaft?

Keshka

unfortunately, this engine is what is termed and "interference engine" meaning if the valves are open when the piston comes to top dead center, the piston will strike the valves and bend them plus damage the piston. With the timing chain off, this can happen. Everything is out of sync. That is why Chris removed those lifters. It's not hard. When I did mine I removed ALL OF THEM for inspection purposes and safety. It is critical enough such that when you remove the gear or timing chain, the cam will snap to as load free position as it can....and damage valves in the process. (not always but why take the chance). You can get by with just the ones Chris did but as I said...what the hey? You are in there....do the diligence and inspect them.

TOPGLOCK

You do not have to remove the followers to do a timing job. When I did mine I used a couple good pair of vice grips behind the phaser on the cam. My engine was very well maintained and everything looked great except phaser noise. One thing I wish I would have done was replace all the followers and lifters since I was that deep. But back to the original point you can use the method I used. It’s actually a piece of cake

Brad V

I took my truck to local ford dealership (Wetzel Ford). They could hear the sound and said it was bottom end and the only fix os to replace the engine. $5700 for parts only. I questioned this due to no sound after idle after cold start for 20 min. “This is normal and only fix is reman engine “. Time for a second opinion???. Im really leaning toward flywheel (aka flex plate). Any other suggestions?

Keshka

in my experience...flex plates make a much uglier noise than that and the noise does not last long before complete failure.

LariatDude

I mean it sounds like they have no idea nor do they want to spend time trying to deal with a 13 year old engine while they have the new ones to fix. Shame on them. I'd definitely get another opinion from a second dealer and if they say the same then I'd look for trustworthy local shops. Your truck runs fine other than the sound? Very few can't be fixed on an engine. It's just whether or not you think it's worth fixing AFTER they tear into it. At least they should tear it down and diagnose it, then you can decide to keep the truck and a reman or maybe sell it all and look for something else. But for them to just say "oh yeah it's bottom end noise, we don't want to work on it so just get a reman." I get that they're probably busy with warranty work, but I would suggest a diff shop if I knew I didn't have time to check out yours. At least I know I'd be an honest mechanic