The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound
09-25-2017, 10:24 PM
#3271
Senior Member
The knocking noise he explains is said to be normal phaser operation noise by Ford though. I asked FordTechMak--- if it's an issue and he replied that it isn't. Mainly a sound annoyance. However if you hear this with non Ford phasers, it WILL become an issue. I have that same knock.
09-26-2017, 12:30 AM
#3272
Bear in mind....my failure was at 180k with a previous owner. I plan on getting 300k. Timely oil changes I feel is the key. I have been using Castrol in all my rigs and have had six of 'em make it to 300k+. Other things fail like fuel pumps and CV joints but my engines.....good! As an automotive machinist for many years, I recommend just a good quality oil and I personally stay away from synthetics and no additives. I don't worry about how the oil looks....looks don't tell you much. If you want details then send for an analysis. But if you consistently change at 3k before the long chain molecules break down. Plain ole oil will do you just fine.
The key point is 3k....don't extend that
The key point is 3k....don't extend that
Last edited by Keshka; 09-26-2017 at 12:33 AM.
09-27-2017, 09:51 AM
#3274
@wrightgbenz.....it's MURPHY! And the ole sh*t happens. You can bet occasionally this even happens under warranty but we seldom hear about it because it is just "taken care of"
Additional note, after learning that FOMOCO decided to chince and put a @$%@## switch instead of a real sender for the oil gauge, I installed a real one at the base of that curve in the plastic panel to the left of the emergency brake and an oil pump (this one - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Oil-Pump-HIG...72.m2749.l2649) and it consistantly reads about 60lbs and may drop to 40 when warm at idle. You can bet your $$ that a blown tensioner seal = large drop in oil pressure = phazers NOP!
Additional note, after learning that FOMOCO decided to chince and put a @$%@## switch instead of a real sender for the oil gauge, I installed a real one at the base of that curve in the plastic panel to the left of the emergency brake and an oil pump (this one - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Oil-Pump-HIG...72.m2749.l2649) and it consistantly reads about 60lbs and may drop to 40 when warm at idle. You can bet your $$ that a blown tensioner seal = large drop in oil pressure = phazers NOP!
I am changing eve3rythign with OEM parts. I have cover off showing a broken guide. Also changing the oil pump with hi performance unit as I believe this may be part of the issue.
09-27-2017, 10:44 AM
#3275
The "switch" is screwed into the backside of the oil filter housing. You will need to keep it or the ECM will annoy you. I removed the housing and unscrewed the switch. I then put a 1/4" tee between it and the housing. Put what ever style fittings into the branch on the tee you need for you gauge and your set.
09-27-2017, 12:04 PM
#3276
Aftermarket cam phasers
ROCK AUTO
Timing Chain Set
Part # 90391SB ($189.00 both chains, tesioners, guides, lower sprocket) Made by Cloves... Very nice quality
Front Crank Seal
Part # TCS46117 ($5.36) Fel-Pro
Cam Phasers
Part # 917250 ($139.19 each so X2) Comes with new bolt
$474.36 total.... Dont forget about the 5% off rock auto too
You wont see the crank seal in this guide, but its in the front engine cover!
Also- DONT FORGET TO PUT ENGINE TO TDC
Here is a picture of bolt locations on front cover
Attachment 504379
This calls for about 10 shop hours so TAKE YOUR TIME
and I reccomend blue loctite on all bolts inside timing cover except phaser
Timing Chain Set
Part # 90391SB ($189.00 both chains, tesioners, guides, lower sprocket) Made by Cloves... Very nice quality
Front Crank Seal
Part # TCS46117 ($5.36) Fel-Pro
Cam Phasers
Part # 917250 ($139.19 each so X2) Comes with new bolt
$474.36 total.... Dont forget about the 5% off rock auto too
You wont see the crank seal in this guide, but its in the front engine cover!
Also- DONT FORGET TO PUT ENGINE TO TDC
Here is a picture of bolt locations on front cover
Attachment 504379
This calls for about 10 shop hours so TAKE YOUR TIME
and I reccomend blue loctite on all bolts inside timing cover except phaser
Great article, found caring reports about using aftermarket camphasers, most say to use factory equipment, see issues with doorman although they have a improved version now, and standard motor products has a version, looking for feedback on issues or reliability of the different brands. It's for a 2010 f150 but I seems to be standard part number for all 5.4.tks
09-27-2017, 12:12 PM
#3277
LightningRod
@wirghtbenz
If you're adding oil pressure gauge, this is a highly worthwhile investment: htps://www.glowshiftdirect.com/oil-filter-sandwich-adapter-22mm-1-5-thread/
I've forged that path before - exactly as @Keshka suggests, and fought nasty oil leaks for fifty thousand miles. The sandwich adapter STOPPED all that and makes a real professional installation. (VERIFY the oil filter thread size though - I do not remember the size, but had to reorder a couple of times to get the right one .. more of my stupid mistakes.)
ON your timing job -- haven't noticed you being involved in discussions regarding Oil Pan remove. Don't make the mistake of skipping that step, especially upon your mention of broken guides. The stupid plastic pieces settle in the belly of the oil pan RIGHT BELOW the pickup screen and are 'guaranteed' to get sucked up into in. That will degrade oil supply/flow/pressure no matter what kind of oil pump you put in it.
Good luck. Lot of guys here pulling for you and more than willing to help if you have questions.
If you're adding oil pressure gauge, this is a highly worthwhile investment: htps://www.glowshiftdirect.com/oil-filter-sandwich-adapter-22mm-1-5-thread/
I've forged that path before - exactly as @Keshka suggests, and fought nasty oil leaks for fifty thousand miles. The sandwich adapter STOPPED all that and makes a real professional installation. (VERIFY the oil filter thread size though - I do not remember the size, but had to reorder a couple of times to get the right one .. more of my stupid mistakes.)
ON your timing job -- haven't noticed you being involved in discussions regarding Oil Pan remove. Don't make the mistake of skipping that step, especially upon your mention of broken guides. The stupid plastic pieces settle in the belly of the oil pan RIGHT BELOW the pickup screen and are 'guaranteed' to get sucked up into in. That will degrade oil supply/flow/pressure no matter what kind of oil pump you put in it.
Good luck. Lot of guys here pulling for you and more than willing to help if you have questions.
Last edited by F150Torqued; 09-27-2017 at 12:15 PM.
09-27-2017, 12:29 PM
#3278
@wirghtbenz
If you're adding oil pressure gauge, this is a highly worthwhile investment: htps://www.glowshiftdirect.com/oil-filter-sandwich-adapter-22mm-1-5-thread/
I've forged that path before - exactly as @Keshka suggests, and fought nasty oil leaks for fifty thousand miles. The sandwich adapter STOPPED all that and makes a real professional installation. (VERIFY the oil filter thread size though - I do not remember the size, but had to reorder a couple of times to get the right one .. more of my stupid mistakes.)
ON your timing job -- haven't noticed you being involved in discussions regarding Oil Pan remove. Don't make the mistake of skipping that step, especially upon your mention of broken guides. The stupid plastic pieces settle in the belly of the oil pan RIGHT BELOW the pickup screen and are 'guaranteed' to get sucked up into in. That will degrade oil supply/flow/pressure no matter what kind of oil pump you put in it.
Good luck. Lot of guys here pulling for you and more than willing to help if you have questions.
If you're adding oil pressure gauge, this is a highly worthwhile investment: htps://www.glowshiftdirect.com/oil-filter-sandwich-adapter-22mm-1-5-thread/
I've forged that path before - exactly as @Keshka suggests, and fought nasty oil leaks for fifty thousand miles. The sandwich adapter STOPPED all that and makes a real professional installation. (VERIFY the oil filter thread size though - I do not remember the size, but had to reorder a couple of times to get the right one .. more of my stupid mistakes.)
ON your timing job -- haven't noticed you being involved in discussions regarding Oil Pan remove. Don't make the mistake of skipping that step, especially upon your mention of broken guides. The stupid plastic pieces settle in the belly of the oil pan RIGHT BELOW the pickup screen and are 'guaranteed' to get sucked up into in. That will degrade oil supply/flow/pressure no matter what kind of oil pump you put in it.
Good luck. Lot of guys here pulling for you and more than willing to help if you have questions.
Looks like a pain to do on the navigator.
I wonder if the pieces couldn't be remove with a vacuum and a good flush
Out of the drain hole ? Just a thought.
09-27-2017, 12:39 PM
#3279
Great article, found caring reports about using aftermarket camphasers, most say to use factory equipment, see issues with doorman although they have a improved version now, and standard motor products has a version, looking for feedback on issues or reliability of the different brands. It's for a 2010 f150 but I seems to be standard part number for all 5.4.tks
The more you read about this problem the more it becomes clear that the real solution is all new OEM with new pump and everything else at the same time.
http://www.freedomracing.com/ford-pa...ement-kit.html
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Macmor90 (09-29-2017)
09-27-2017, 02:07 PM
#3280
@wirghtbenz
If you're adding oil pressure gauge, this is a highly worthwhile investment: htps://www.glowshiftdirect.com/oil-filter-sandwich-adapter-22mm-1-5-thread/
I've forged that path before - exactly as @Keshka suggests, and fought nasty oil leaks for fifty thousand miles. The sandwich adapter STOPPED all that and makes a real professional installation. (VERIFY the oil filter thread size though - I do not remember the size, but had to reorder a couple of times to get the right one .. more of my stupid mistakes.)
ON your timing job -- haven't noticed you being involved in discussions regarding Oil Pan remove. Don't make the mistake of skipping that step, especially upon your mention of broken guides. The stupid plastic pieces settle in the belly of the oil pan RIGHT BELOW the pickup screen and are 'guaranteed' to get sucked up into in. That will degrade oil supply/flow/pressure no matter what kind of oil pump you put in it.
Good luck. Lot of guys here pulling for you and more than willing to help if you have questions.
If you're adding oil pressure gauge, this is a highly worthwhile investment: htps://www.glowshiftdirect.com/oil-filter-sandwich-adapter-22mm-1-5-thread/
I've forged that path before - exactly as @Keshka suggests, and fought nasty oil leaks for fifty thousand miles. The sandwich adapter STOPPED all that and makes a real professional installation. (VERIFY the oil filter thread size though - I do not remember the size, but had to reorder a couple of times to get the right one .. more of my stupid mistakes.)
ON your timing job -- haven't noticed you being involved in discussions regarding Oil Pan remove. Don't make the mistake of skipping that step, especially upon your mention of broken guides. The stupid plastic pieces settle in the belly of the oil pan RIGHT BELOW the pickup screen and are 'guaranteed' to get sucked up into in. That will degrade oil supply/flow/pressure no matter what kind of oil pump you put in it.
Good luck. Lot of guys here pulling for you and more than willing to help if you have questions.