The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound
@buening
^^^ I agree with @harveje . That is definitely worth a try.
But, I don't think it would be an injector - or Phaser. I would put my money on a lash adjuster. Or roller on one of the roller/followers with some play in it. My '04 likewise had a tick from shortly after purchased new until I did full timing job @ 212K. I replaced all 24 lash adjusters and roller/followers and it is quiet as a Swiss Watch.
You would have to remove a valve cover and lay a fender cover over stuff and crank it, let it idle to tell If I'm right. If there is ANY slack in one, you can feel it real easy by laying a finger on the follower on either lifter or valve stem end. (Timing chain will be slinging oil everywhere). But with the Engine OFF, you can't tell if there is slack in the ones with valve springs compressed. But I would bet you have a roller that you could feel some slack in the roller wheel.
The lash adjusters are a different problem. If one bleeds down under valve spring pressure, then as the roller gets to the cam lobe heal, it can click as the lash adjuster pumps back up and takes the slack out.
^^^ I agree with @harveje . That is definitely worth a try.
But, I don't think it would be an injector - or Phaser. I would put my money on a lash adjuster. Or roller on one of the roller/followers with some play in it. My '04 likewise had a tick from shortly after purchased new until I did full timing job @ 212K. I replaced all 24 lash adjusters and roller/followers and it is quiet as a Swiss Watch.
You would have to remove a valve cover and lay a fender cover over stuff and crank it, let it idle to tell If I'm right. If there is ANY slack in one, you can feel it real easy by laying a finger on the follower on either lifter or valve stem end. (Timing chain will be slinging oil everywhere). But with the Engine OFF, you can't tell if there is slack in the ones with valve springs compressed. But I would bet you have a roller that you could feel some slack in the roller wheel.
The lash adjusters are a different problem. If one bleeds down under valve spring pressure, then as the roller gets to the cam lobe heal, it can click as the lash adjuster pumps back up and takes the slack out.
I just bit the bullet on mine and replaced everything I could while she was open. Only reason I didn't replace the left cam was Rockauto was out of stock. I will say if you order parts from rock, verify all parts are correct in quantity and part number. 1st round I was short 20 lash adjusters, second time they sent adjusters for a Hyundai, third time correct.
I also got some parts from fourm members that saved me BIG money. Mine noise was on the right side also and was a rather nice sound but not for a gas engine. The injectors are a little loud and if you get a stethoscope be careful, if you have the ear pieces in and hit the metal rod on something you'll know it....
I also got some parts from fourm members that saved me BIG money. Mine noise was on the right side also and was a rather nice sound but not for a gas engine. The injectors are a little loud and if you get a stethoscope be careful, if you have the ear pieces in and hit the metal rod on something you'll know it....
Thanks for the info guys. As best as I can tell using the old school "screwdriver to the ear" method, the noise is coming from around the cylinder #2 spark plug. I may just pull the valve cover and take a peek inside. From what I've been seeing on youtube, if a lash adjuster goes bad and has been as long of a period as this then its likely damaged the rocker and cam lobe as well.
Is it true you use a screwdriver and pop off the cam follower with the cam lobe pointing up? Then just pull out the lash adjuster with the follower removed? Was hoping I could look at the adjusters in cylinder #2 without removing the entire camshaft.
Is it true you use a screwdriver and pop off the cam follower with the cam lobe pointing up? Then just pull out the lash adjuster with the follower removed? Was hoping I could look at the adjusters in cylinder #2 without removing the entire camshaft.
Last edited by buening; Aug 28, 2017 at 04:18 PM.
Check spark plug for torque, first and easiest. The right cam cover is a PITA to get off. I got mine off with the AC still charged but it was a bear. If your focused on one cylinder you can use a tool to pop or roll the follower off and on, some use a pry bar or screwdriver. I removed the cam and flushed and replaced all mine. you can pull the oil filler and if there's excessive slack in the chain you'll be better off pulling and doing the whole timing set.
@keshka
Well, the confirmation is both satisfying and concerning. x020A = (byte A*256+byte B) or 02x256 + 10 = 522. Then 522/12.8 = 40.78 crankshaft degrees. Up to x030F = (byte A*256 + B) or 3x256 + 15 = 783. Then 783/12.8 = 61.17 crankshaft degrees.
This just confirms what we saw on the dashboard displays on post #3181 and your graph on #3213. And it confirms there is 'plenty' that I don't understand - the least of which is the concerning issue of why that PID's result makes no sense. Being an 'OUTPUT' value calculated to be the desired retard against which the actual cam positioning is to be compared for closed loop feedback purposes. Makes NO sense even HOW it could even get screwed up.
Then there is the additional matter thrown in the mix by @harveje (you rascal). It seems that Forscan is presenting Separate values for 'requested retard' - one for each bank. Although they seem to erroneously refer to it as VCTADV and VCTADV2 - they are apparently referring to retard because if you ADVANCED cams any where near that many degrees you would trash the valves. But their formula must be 'camshaft' degrees - which would be ~53 and ~54 degrees respectively. That is about what I am finding in 'crankshaft' degrees of cam retard with roughly the same percent duty cycle on the Solenoids. /// But it has been MY understanding there was one 'requested' retard (so I got to go spelunking and try to find Forscan's VCTADV - or VCTADV2). I can't imagine a reason why the PCM would ever intend to command different retard between bank1 and bank2.
@harveje - Your VCTADV and VCTADV2 are less than 1/2 camshaft degrees apart. But VCTDC is almost 8 % higher on bank1 to keep both cams within 1/2 degree of desired retard. SOMETHING on bank1 is requiring a little extra 'UMPH' to get the feedback balanced out. BTW, what is "NM"?
I did get Forscan running on an old XP notebook today. But haven't learned much about using it yet. I'll try to read your file this evening.
Well, the confirmation is both satisfying and concerning. x020A = (byte A*256+byte B) or 02x256 + 10 = 522. Then 522/12.8 = 40.78 crankshaft degrees. Up to x030F = (byte A*256 + B) or 3x256 + 15 = 783. Then 783/12.8 = 61.17 crankshaft degrees.
This just confirms what we saw on the dashboard displays on post #3181 and your graph on #3213. And it confirms there is 'plenty' that I don't understand - the least of which is the concerning issue of why that PID's result makes no sense. Being an 'OUTPUT' value calculated to be the desired retard against which the actual cam positioning is to be compared for closed loop feedback purposes. Makes NO sense even HOW it could even get screwed up.
Then there is the additional matter thrown in the mix by @harveje (you rascal). It seems that Forscan is presenting Separate values for 'requested retard' - one for each bank. Although they seem to erroneously refer to it as VCTADV and VCTADV2 - they are apparently referring to retard because if you ADVANCED cams any where near that many degrees you would trash the valves. But their formula must be 'camshaft' degrees - which would be ~53 and ~54 degrees respectively. That is about what I am finding in 'crankshaft' degrees of cam retard with roughly the same percent duty cycle on the Solenoids. /// But it has been MY understanding there was one 'requested' retard (so I got to go spelunking and try to find Forscan's VCTADV - or VCTADV2). I can't imagine a reason why the PCM would ever intend to command different retard between bank1 and bank2.
@harveje - Your VCTADV and VCTADV2 are less than 1/2 camshaft degrees apart. But VCTDC is almost 8 % higher on bank1 to keep both cams within 1/2 degree of desired retard. SOMETHING on bank1 is requiring a little extra 'UMPH' to get the feedback balanced out. BTW, what is "NM"?
I did get Forscan running on an old XP notebook today. But haven't learned much about using it yet. I'll try to read your file this evening.
my issue may be bank 2 VCT because even tho the "new" one in bank 1 tested good the readings were all over and even up to nearly 100% DC. After I changed bank 1 the highest is around 50%DC. I'll change bank 2 tomorrow along with my MAF (it was showing a reading with no air flow), reset the PCM and test it. I did put new cam on bank 1 but don't know if that would cause an issue or not.
NM is total number of misfires since engine start.
For some reason I can't find individual misfire counts for each cylinder
NM is total number of misfires since engine start.
For some reason I can't find individual misfire counts for each cylinder
Gotcha ya.
Don't waste your time. Ford doesn't provide the individual misfire counter for external OBDII consumption. But run a Mode 06 "Test Results" and it has that for 'current drive cycle' as well as individual cyl misfire counts accumulated for the last 10 drive cycles.
Some guys on the www.Torque-bhp.com website are trying to create Torque Pro custom PIDS that will extract the correct fields out of dynamic mode 06 requests. But the Mode 6 report is great as far as I'm concerned.
8-30-17 switched bank 2 "new" vct and both DC% are within .3 of each other, this also brought the other vct parameters closer together. I ran a mode 6 and cyl 1-4 show a 25-35 misfire count, cyl 5-8 0 count. that was for a 13 mile run. So that may be part of my rough idle with no codes. That's weird that all the front 4 show misfire or is that all one bank?

