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Thanks,
Well the truck passed the drive thru and wife test..
Took the kids to school and the p0010 came back so I'll pull the vct, check for short, or trash, and check wiring for voltage, look at the cam sensor again and do a battery disconnect. The code does take a few miles to show up.
and concentrate on electrical integrity/connections from Bank 1 VCT Solenoid plug all the way back to the PCM Plug - (pin 67 _OR_ 68) making sure ALL connections and the wiring harness is good. /// I say pin 67 or 68 because VCT 1 and VCT 2 wire identifications are reversed on PCM end on the wiring diagram! Either Violet/Blue - or Dark Green/Orange wire. I guess a solenoid coil could be open or shorted internally - or the PCM output driver circuit could be bad, but P0010 points directly at that. The reason it didn't show up for a few miles is the PCMs test is delayed until ECT reaches 150º. Re: page 72.
Thanks, I'll have to verify the wiring, the schematic shows VCT1 wire going to pin 68 but pin 68 is labeled VCTVLV2. This is a new VCT so it could be bad. Can I take it out, put 12v to Red/yellow, ground the body to check it?
It is almost always a bad connector. Get yourself a inexpensive VOM to test the circuits "disconnected" for continuity. Screwing around with uncontrolled voltages/amperage is the best way to burn up a lot of stuff "very bad" Use the controlled VOM as the safest way. Look for the wire broken, the connection at the crimp of the plug, and lastly the components themselves as bad. The ECU or PCM would probably throw several codes if there were internal problems there. Corrosion is the most likely reason for the oopen. Don't be afraid of the circuit/body ground as the problem. Circuit/Body grounds screw up stuff intrepidly.
Last edited by papa tiger; Aug 21, 2017 at 11:44 AM.
Thanks, I kinda like to know what or how something acts / reacts before just jumping in so I found this and will start there http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/bk...223213_vct.pdf
So credit and thanks to the poster....
We're an apple family.. as far as a tablet do you have any recommendations?
3 of my helmets are ok, but my auto darkening for some reason is not, even when turned to 13. The other ones are from stick welder days..
Originally Posted by F150Torqued
I thought you were already a Torque Pro user? We'll help you out.
Is your welding helmet glass 'solar eclipse' rated? Don't let them stare at it too long through it. I don't think it is high enough rated. I built me a cardboard projection box with a hole in top and white paper on bottom to view it.
--------------------------- EDIT (found the 'Relearn Process' thread/post)
Ahhh, you are going to make me 'disclose' more. How the Torque Pro formula for RCAM worked out to be what it is. ((( I will welcome more smarts on that. Meanwhile I'll tell you how I came up with it & why))) it is (ABS(Signed(A)*256+B)/12.8)
I promise Torque isn't lying. Multiply what you see by 12.8 and you'll have the raw value the PCM is sending for the two binary bytes of PID #16CD as a computer Word. ("A" is multiplied by *256 to shift it left eight bits - get it to the right power of 2 - , then the value of "B" is added to account for the value of the low order byte. Basically, that operation is converting binary (or hexidecimal) to decimal).
The 'ABS' and 'Signed' functions are there because I can tell it is a Signed word (High order bit is on sometimes) and the ABS is because there NO way Retard can go negative - because the phasers cannot 'Advance' the cams. Without the ABS, the gauge gets all screwed up when the reading is -2º or -5º (which is impossible). I suppose the software could be using that as some sort of a flag indication or something but I don't know what it would be for and just chose to throw it away with ABS.
The real question is HOW does the PCM generate that number for DESIRED retard - to ultimately be compared with CPS signals from the 'fingers' (or more specifically the 5th finger) on the Phaser??? There are 4 fingers on the pasers spaced at 90º - with a 5th finger 1/2 way between two of those - thus spaced at 45º for TDC timing (I think). But then the cam turns 1/2 the rate of the Crank.???
But there are 35 teeth on the Crank tone ring (with one missing for cyl 1 sync) - for a total of 36, or 1 for each 10º CKS. ??? Nothing seems to work out very well for the PCM to 'count'. Specifications say - maximum retard is 62 to 65 CKSº. Initially I used a divisor of 10 because it made sense with tone ring teeth and came out 'close' but retard would go up to 78 - 81 or 82 occasionally. 12 is better but makes no better sense. I can find no logic to 12.8 other than that gives a range between zero and about 68-70 Cksº.
But in your case - my concern is not seeing smooth linear RCAM values and occasional ZERO when I think it should be zero - like at idle. A bum or foobar formula might give 'wrong degrees' but should not cause no zero reading - when VCT Solenoid duty cycle is ZERO. (That's command for zero retard). What is going on?
The fifth finger on the phasers (and the missing on the crank) are indexing points. Without an odd or missing finger the pcm can only tell rate and not position. During the design, the location is arbitrary but once programming is complete, that arbitrary position must stay consistent engine to engine.
Ya, I am stumped as to why the RCAM does not change much. I am going to try to set up a graph to see if dynamic info might help solve this. As far as diagnosing the RCAM, I am not that familiar with programming pids for Torque. IE. I don't know where the A and B come from. What I would like to do on my truck is record the raw data for RCAM next to RPM to a flat file I could analyse but don't know how to make Torque do that.
from the few times the ECM has tried to control VCT it is able to move the timing on VCT1 but apparently, not fast nor accurate enough and sets an error code I am tending to think leaking cam tensioner might be the culprit.
Your Torque Pro app will 'log' any PID (including extra extended ones YOU have added) to a log file. Then transfer the ('CSV format') file from your Android device to your computer and play with it in EXCEL.
If you want to graph live data in Torque - I highly recommend a 5 Star 'plug in' for Torque Pro called "Realtime Charts for Torque Pro". It is available from the Google Play Store for less than the ridiculous $4.95 price charged for Torque Pro itself. It would be interesting to see what your Phasers are doing with this graph facility. I just realized a couple of graphs I have from my Truck conveys how my VVT system is working better than anything else I could show. These two screenshots were taken from 'replaying' a VVT graphing files stored by Realtime Charts. You can see how CAM ERROR spikes when RCAM changes quickly and VCT Solenoids open or close.
V.V.T. operation on sartup and driving out of my neighborhood 25/30 mph - start stop.
Last edited by F150Torqued; Aug 23, 2017 at 09:06 AM.
Your Torque Pro app will 'log' any PID (including extra extended ones YOU have added) to a log file. Then transfer the ('CSV format') file from your Android device to your computer and play with it in EXCEL.
If you want to graph live data in Torque - I highly recommend a 5 Star 'plug in' for Torque Pro called "Realtime Charts for Torque Pro". It is available from the Google Play Store for less than the ridiculous $4.95 price charged for Torque Pro itself. It would be interesting to see what your Phasers are doing with this graph facility. I just realized a couple of graphs I have from my Truck conveys how my VVT system is working better than anything else I could show. These two screenshots were taken from 'replaying' a VVT graphing files stored by Realtime Charts. You can see how CAM ERROR spikes when RCAM changes quickly and VCT Solenoids open or close.
V.V.T. operation on sartup and driving out of my neighborhood 25/30 mph - start stop.
DONE! hehe! a new toy to play with! ...............results to follow!
on a side note, I just watched FordTechMakuloco's four part timing video. This is going to be a PITA but I see no way around it at this point. Based on the diagnostics so far, "something" is messed up in there that can't be fixed by changing external parts. Based on what I have learned from F150Torqued and FordTechMakuloco I think the problem is a blown seal on the chain tensioner for bank 1 (that's the passenger side right?)
Against FTM's advice, since I have way more time than money, I ordered this set
....we shall see! I won't be using any parts from that set that are not needed. An example is that the truck came with a box of replace parts where a "mechanic" was just throwing parts at it contains a ford phaser that has nothing wrong with it.
Nice info here what would you guys say a fair price to have this work done would be? Trying to get prepared for if I ever need to do this 207k on my truck
