This sounds more like a cracked exhaust manifold. The cam phaser problem gets louder and more audible when the truck warms up and it's less noticable when cold. Yours is the opposite. A cracked manifold will tick when cold and when the manifold gets hot the metal expands and kind of seals it self. I would check the manifolds an manifold studs.

 

Thank you. I'll see if that's what's going on. Any pointers on what to look for? I doubt it will be a gaping crack that I can easily see. Will th manifold studs likely be rusted and impossible to remove?

 

Look for soot, that is usually a good sign. Also start a new thread with your symptoms and questions so we don't clog this one up with information unrelated to this thread.

 

Ok. Will do. Thank you for your help.

 

So, today I received the last of the parts I ordered. Now I'm getting ready to do this tomorrow and was going over the procedures at the beginning of this post and all the diagrams are gone including torque sequences etc. All thanks to photo bucket . Does anyone have these pics/drawing/images availlable? I'd be eternally grateful is someone could email em to.me.

Best regards
Mike

 

Generally how long does it take for the tensioner to leak down/lose oil pressure due to a blown seal if the truck just sits? An hour? Three days?

 

So after a weekend of ripping apart the front of the motor, stripping it down to get the covers off, the first thing I notice is the right side timing chain guide,, the stationary one on top is not there, all that's left are the two mounting bolts, I find remnants of the rail in the bottom, also I notice the wear on the timing cover from the chain slap, also the tensioner is seized fully extended. So there my error code, I took everything apart, and replaced timing components, phasers and solenoids, I did a fast inspection of lashes etc and all looks fine.
I didn't notice anything wrong with the phasers, they look fine, are there internals involved with them that could make them faulty??
I replaced them regardless since I'd bought new ones and returning them I would loose too much on em.
I didn't need to disconnect the AC, I found if all the electrical was removed, pushed to one side and to the top, tied with tie wraps, dip stick tube for tranny pushed towards the wheel well and down I had no worse a time removing/reinstalling that cover than I did the left hand side one, the power steering pump was a total time eater on removal/install.

Now the truck sounds just great with the only noise at idle being the injectors ticking away ( you can feel it with a finger on the fuel rail) , has instant response when touching the accelerator pedal, but I'm still lacking power mid range, , if I mash the pedal when at speeds of 60 kph and above it feels like it's bogging down, and there a sound coming from the passenger side when the window is open that sounds like a loose heat shield, but there is no heat shields on the system, I feel little to no back pressure at the tail pipe and the exhaust gases are very hot after a five minute drive, I'm down to catalytic converters or maybe even spark plugs??? Any one have any ideas?

Thanks in advance

BTW an exhaust shop banged away on the cats and couldn't hear any noises and feels there's no issues with them.
And there are no more check engine light

 

A few pics,
This truck came from Manitoba where like Sask and Alta most of the secondary roads are dirt/pea gravel everything gets very dusty.



Surprise surprise, looky here what's missing



some of the parts, more came along as I scrapped the pan.. fun fun



All new !



Right side as I prepare to replace the valve cover

 

Just about to jump into this repair...all the diagrams and pictures are gone...anybody have these saved or know how to get them?

 

@Ikkie


If you mean the diagrams and pictures on the forum aren't showing up, try 'clearing' the cache on your browser.


In case that doesn't work - check your PMs