jml755

Just thought I'd add to the 5.4L F150 experiences on here. Bought an '04 F150 w/ 150k miles last November from a guy who had bought it at an auction with a hole in the timing chain cover and broken guides. He had the usual work done: guides, tensioners, VCT solenoids, chain,phasers. He said his mechanic told him it was pretty sludged up and recommended frequent oil changes with treatment. We talked about lockouts but I opted not to go that route. Anyway, it's not my daily driver so it took a while to get about 2K miles on it. About ready to do an oil change in May and I had the oil pressure drop to 0 on the freeway. Pulled over, checked the oil level (it was fine). Restarting and the gage read normal but after about a mile, dropped again. I was able to limp home about 5 miles by going about 1 mile at a time, stopping when the gage went to 0, waiting, restarting, going about a mile. Doing research, I found it's not really a "gage", it's an ON/OFF oil sender switch and they can fail. So I changed the switch, changed the oil & filter (both Motorcraft) and put in a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil as a cleaner.

I drove it locally around the area a few times and the problem with the pressure switch seemed to be solved. So I decided to drive it home (it was at another house I own about 30 miles away) and it ran fine for about 25 miles. Then it started to run rough at 70 mph and started throwing the usual cam phaser codes: Bank 1 retarded, cam sensor, etc. (I had kept my OBD reader hooked up all this time so I could monitor/clear codes). Then the oil pressure dropped to 0, then back again to normal. I had read on this forum about dash board solder joint issues and you could bang on the dash to make the gage behave normally if that was the problem. I did that a couple of times to no avail. After a couple of "drop-to 0, return to normal" cycles the oil pressure dropped and stayed down. As I was pulling over to the shoulder, power/speed dropped off dramatically as I kept my foot on the gas and then the engine stalled. This occurred (start of problem to finish) probably within 2 miles at highway speed. I checked the oil, level was OK. Tried to restart, wouldn't turn over or even click. Had it towed to a garage, they couldn't even budge it with a wrench on the crank(with all belts disconnected). Needs a new engine. He said that I probably hastened the sudden failure by putting the cleaner in, causing sludge to break loose and plug oil passages.

I've got a quote for a reman engine and will have it installed in the next week or so. I remember telling my wife when I bought it that even if I had to replace the engine, it was still a better deal than a lot of other trucks I'd been looking at. The body was clean, only dents were on the tailgate. Learned a lot about the 5.4's since I've had it (mostly from this forum) but I'm not sure if I'd get another. I bought it to pull a horse trailer and for the automatic. I've had an '02 Chevy 1500 stick (work truck) for 13 yrs that's been a great vehicle but not up to doing any hauling. Anyway, I'll post on how the reman install works out.

rmortime

First - how do set up a mechanical oil pressure gauge?
Second - I was low a full quart of oil, changed 2k miles ago and she was good then, oil helped, a lot. Still get intermitten knocks though, less frequent. I will be dropping the pan this weekend, with it dropped what else should I tackle? Oil pump if accessible? I plan to give it a good cleaning as well, any good recommendation on products to use for cleaning?

BadFish523

The mechanical gauge will connect in place of the current pressure switch. This is just to check the oil pressure as without the current pressure switch connected you will receive a low I'll pressure warning. I don't think you can change the oil pump without pulling the front timing cover. I know you can change it without dropping the pan but I don't know about the other way around. My recommendation for cleaning is just a clean rag and wipe it out.

Michael Johanson

Yes. OEM if your not locking out.


Can buy OEM for a lot less via Amazon, eBay, etc.


Mike

rmortime

Ok just dropped the pan and there are guide pieces everywhere. Looks like I'll be doing the timing job next weekend.

Are the below parts still the recommend consensus for replacement parts or have other better parts been found? What additional parts should I replace (Oil pump, what model?; Chains? others?)

ROCK AUTO

Timing Chain Set by Cloves
Part # 90391SB ($189.00 both chains, tesioners, guides, lower sprocket) - Are these plastic guides?

Front Crank Seal
Part # TCS46117 ($5.36) Fel-Pro

Cam Phasers
Part # 917250 ($139.19 each so X2) Comes with new bolt [NOT DORMAN]

Thanks!

ttjkn5

About 3 years ago I replaced the vct phasers, timing components and guides all of the stuff recommended on here and has been fine for the last 40K. Now I am getting a grinding/squealing noise from the passenger side at low idle. At high speed do not notice it at all but slow down to a light or stop sign and it is there. Not like before the last repair when the engine shook and had knocking sound from phaser. I have checked all likely external components, water pump and air compressor and power steering, Noise seems to be loudest down by the air conditioning pump or that side anyway. On top the noise by phase does not seem any different than the other side. Main bearing never had one go out, other front end parts like slack in timing chain bouncing around in there or hitting case. Have 240K on truck 2005 F150 just looking for an approach to take before tearing into it again. Thanks for any help here.

F150Torqued

When its doing it, you might remove serpentine belt and start it briefly to eliminate all the crap on front.


Very little occurs to me that would grind/squeal except a bad roller/follower. I would think you could hear that more topside.

Michael Johanson

Was going to suggest removing belt also to eliminate possibilities.
My guess is idler pulley or perhaps even a steering rack beginning to go bad.


Mike

ttjkn5

Thanks never thought of removing the belt, it was the idler pulls going to get a new one now. Thanks

jrhoat

Hi all. New member, first post.
So I own a 2006 F150 crew fx4. I bought it new and now I have about 97,000 miles on it. It started making the ticking about 15000 miles ago. All of my research has led me here. I've had myself convinced the problem is the usual for the 5.4 (phases, guides, etc). However, the more I see here the less convinced I am. So my truck ticks a lot on a cold start for about 30-45 seconds then stops while idling. It will idle indefinitely with no tick. It will tick really loudly when I'm driving or I press on the gas while in park. Basically when there is no load on the engine there is no tick except for a cold start.
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to tear it apart unless I need to.
Thanks.