Okay, over the weekend I finally got the nerve to go ahead and put this thing back together. Oh, and my hat's off to the guys that have posted on this thread that they did this job in just 5 1/2 hours because it took me that long to get this dang thing apart. That copy of your manual is what gave me the nudge to go ahead with this....Thanks.

Once I got the covers back on I added 4 qts of oil and cranked the engine over to prime the engine. The oil pressure came up with only a few turns of the crank and I repeated this several times to be sure the engine was primed and there were no obvious leaks then I added the rest of the oil and hit the key with the crank sensor in and she purred like a kitten. The power steering was grumbling a little because the return line had sprung a leak and all the oil had drained out of the res. so I shut her down and repaired the return line and filled the tank back up. The medal part of the line has a clamp holding it to the frame and it was leaking at that clamp. The line was rusty looking right there and it looked like it had been leaking for awhile. I just cut the medal line off back to where it was nice clean medal and ran a piece of 3/8 hose up to the res and tied it off real good. It should be ok but I'll keep an eye on it for awhile just to be sure.

I started the engine back up and for a second or two until the power steering pump primed back up she fussed a little then there was this beautiful sound of silence. The only noise I could hear was the tender click of the injectors and the sound the fan makes as it starts to turn. I finished filling the radiator and added more coolant as the air was being purged from the system.

Then it was time for a test run so my son took it out for a spin around the block. The engine sounded great and I could tell right away that it was 10,000 times better than it was before this job was started. What a great feeling it was to see that truck disappear down the drive. That feeling was short lived though because he came back shortly and said it would cut off when he got up to about 52 MPH it would drop out of gear and also when he came to a stop sign it would completely shut off and the low oil pressure light would come on, which I think would be normal if the engine had shut off. It would start right back up but would repeat the same thing at every stop sign.

I guess I should start a new thread for this problem rather than hyjack this great thread. But I'm going to try to post a few pics of the worn out parts. Those chains were almost an inch longer that the new ones and the tensinors were completely shot. I tried to squeeze the pins on the new ones and they wouldn't budge but I could push them in on the old ones with very little pressure. I don't know if you can see the seal on the back of the left hand side but it was obvious that there was no way it could have held pressure.

 

Did I break the site?

 

Try dropping the oil pan and cleaning the pickup tube / screen

 

I was thinking about that before I put it all back together but the engine was clean. There were no pieces of the adjuster missing other than the small area where the tensioners had pushed against the slack adjusters. You could see in that area that the plastic had not broken but gradually wore down.

The problem I have here is that there are at least two if not more problems that are going on. We are taking it to a transmission shop today to try and get to the bottom of the shifting problem. Hopefully we wont have to get a new one or have it rebuilt because if that's the case we'll have to let it sit for awhile.

Hopefully it will be something stewpid and it can be fixed fairly reasonably. I'll know more after we get back from there. I don't think the tranny is fried because the oil looks bright and red with no smelly burn smell to it.

 

This has nothing to do with the theme of this thread but I just got back from the tranny shop and he tells me that the overdrive has gone out and the reason it is shifting to neutral once it gets to that shift point.

 

I have done the cams, VCT, chain, and tensioners twice now. Terrible results. Going on 12 months and only able to log 100 miles on the vehicle.

I was ready to donate the truck to salvage when my visiting brother-in-law (over a few beers) suggested we tear into the oil pan.

OMG. The oil pick up tube was 99% plugged with plastic bits and small debris. I used my parts washer and air hose to clear it (after removing the pick up screen/tube). Reinstalled and filled with oil....

HOLY CRAP. I have a new truck. Just drove it 120 miles running errands. Took roughly 4 hours to do the oil pan job.

If you do the fix and know that the guides have broken off, drop the oil pan and clean out the debris!!!!

One piece of simple advice, pull the dip stick out about 10" so you don't hit the pan when removing/installing it.

My truck is back to normal. Guess engines run better when they get oil. Lol

 

i have just experienced exactly the same issue.i got the front end ripped apart,new chains,glides,phasers etc for the damn truck to run just awful.
one good member on here suggested to drop the oil pan and viola
pick up sieve just plugged

 

Thanks for the post and excellent pic. It is _SUCH_ an important but too frequently overlooked part of the timing jobs. In fact - this may often be the cause of the early symptoms of a timing failure (rough idle, dying at stops, Phaser rattle and increased tick sound.


Hope you won't mind but I saved a copy of your picture to use when trying to explain the problem to other members.

 

buuuut yesterday the truck ran rough again

 

Sh*@#%t. Christian translation Darn!