The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound
#2961
Senior Member
I agree, you are so close. When I did mine, I was off 1 or 2 teeth as well. I put a pair of vice grips on the non-journaled part of the cam behind the phaser on bank 1 and had my son hold the vice grips. I took the phaser bolt back out, removed the phaser and re-aligned the phaser arrow up with the two colored links on the timing chain. Then when I went to install the phaser on the end of the cam, I had my son slightly turn the cam until the phaser slipped on into position. Then I installed the phaser bolt and tightened to specs. At that point, everything lined up correctly. Been running great for over 2 years now.
Good luck, let us know how it goes.
Tom
Good luck, let us know how it goes.
Tom
The following 2 users liked this post by vintageman:
F150Torqued (09-16-2016),
SchwartzWI (09-16-2016)
#2962
I ended up purchasing the whole Ford OEM kit from MMR, also installed a Melling oil pump
my left side was very easy, but the right side is a few teeth off, I cant seem to turn the phaser counter clockwise enough to get the mark to line up, do you know if I move it counter clockwise too much will I crank the valve into a piston
any advise would help
the phaser might have moved clock wise while tightening the bolt.
my left side was very easy, but the right side is a few teeth off, I cant seem to turn the phaser counter clockwise enough to get the mark to line up, do you know if I move it counter clockwise too much will I crank the valve into a piston
any advise would help
the phaser might have moved clock wise while tightening the bolt.
The following 2 users liked this post by VTX1800N1:
F150Torqued (09-16-2016),
SchwartzWI (09-16-2016)
#2963
LightningRod
@SchwartzWI
Thanks to @vintageman and @VTX1800N1, I think either method will work. Having only done one (mine) I do not have any experience with which to compare against. But you haven't done anything wrong - lots of guys report the same issue. I think most do not realize how much torque it requires to get the cam lobes to push two or three valve springs down at once. Guess this is the reason the manual (and @s_vares in this thread) recommends removing those followers. May also be a reason the Phaser's become unable to return cams to advanced mode if coil spring weakens with age and oil pressure sags too low at idle. (put that's for another post/day)
I am convinced nothing will get damaged if you "EITHER" rotate the crank "clockwise" (viewed from front), or the "Phaser" (counter clockwise from the front) to align the marks. ///Just make sure it ends up like the front engine picture from the manual - without moving anything farther than you must. ///
REASONING: If the valves are NOT in contact with pistons now (and one would have to assume they are not) either above action is moving the Crankshaft/Camshaft more toward a retard relationship. The phaser's operational design allows a maximum VVT retard of over 60 crankshaft degrees (30º camshaft). You do not need nearly that much.
PS. Looking at your picture - it seems we BOTH were referring to clockwise / counter clockwise incorrectly. Hummm that's scary trying to assist without being there.
Thanks to @vintageman and @VTX1800N1, I think either method will work. Having only done one (mine) I do not have any experience with which to compare against. But you haven't done anything wrong - lots of guys report the same issue. I think most do not realize how much torque it requires to get the cam lobes to push two or three valve springs down at once. Guess this is the reason the manual (and @s_vares in this thread) recommends removing those followers. May also be a reason the Phaser's become unable to return cams to advanced mode if coil spring weakens with age and oil pressure sags too low at idle. (put that's for another post/day)
I am convinced nothing will get damaged if you "EITHER" rotate the crank "clockwise" (viewed from front), or the "Phaser" (counter clockwise from the front) to align the marks. ///Just make sure it ends up like the front engine picture from the manual - without moving anything farther than you must. ///
REASONING: If the valves are NOT in contact with pistons now (and one would have to assume they are not) either above action is moving the Crankshaft/Camshaft more toward a retard relationship. The phaser's operational design allows a maximum VVT retard of over 60 crankshaft degrees (30º camshaft). You do not need nearly that much.
PS. Looking at your picture - it seems we BOTH were referring to clockwise / counter clockwise incorrectly. Hummm that's scary trying to assist without being there.
Last edited by F150Torqued; 09-19-2016 at 10:44 AM. Reason: correct spelling of "s_vares" handle
The following users liked this post:
SchwartzWI (09-16-2016)
#2964
Timing chain?
05, f150 w/5.4. Have the tapping sound but not at idle. Nor does it do it while in park or neutral. It makes tap tap tap noise when I remove foot from gas pedal or if I'm slightly pressing the peddle. Also at start up it will tap. I was told like 5 years ago it was the timing chain. After further research I see this info about cam phasers. What do you think? Thanks
Last edited by Glenn Costa; 09-19-2016 at 08:56 AM.
#2965
LightningRod
I think most would describe timing chain noise more like marbles in a coffee can than a tap-tap-tap noise.
My take on your overall description (at start up - not in park or neutral - on light acceleration - and on light deceleration) might be an exhaust manifold crack or gasket leak. Not an extremely rare occurrence on these models.
My take on your overall description (at start up - not in park or neutral - on light acceleration - and on light deceleration) might be an exhaust manifold crack or gasket leak. Not an extremely rare occurrence on these models.
#2966
05, f150 w/5.4. Have the tapping sound but not at idle. Nor does it do it while in park or neutral. It makes tap tap tap noise when I remove foot from gas pedal or if I'm slightly pressing the peddle. Also at start up it will tap. I was told like 5 years ago it was the timing chain. After further research I see this info about cam phasers. What do you think? Thanks
#2967
when I started the Timing dot was at 6;00 and the #1 cam lobe was approx. 11:00
I did not remove any of the camshaft journals
should I just connect the right side Phaser chain 2 notches off then turn crank a little less that 360 then reconnect it the right way??
Attachment 448589
Attachment 448590
Attachment 448591
I did not remove any of the camshaft journals
should I just connect the right side Phaser chain 2 notches off then turn crank a little less that 360 then reconnect it the right way??
Attachment 448589
Attachment 448590
Attachment 448591
I Finally got Her all aligned up, and covers installed thanks to you guys.
One final question I hope, I still have plugs out and was looking at previous posts on how to prime the Oil pump before firing it up.
I installed a new Melling, I have cranked the motor over for almost a couple of minutes and can't seem to get the Oil Pressure gage(Dummy gage to move) Oil filter still empty also.
I only put in 5 Quarts to start but I assume that should be enough to prime it.
should I just put plugs-coils back in and let er rip??
worried about seizing her up
Mike
#2968
Put in seven, like the manual states. Then prime. It should not take a couple of minutes. It should only take a few seconds.
#2969
#2970
Seven includes an empty filter, so it's not that. Might want to drop your fuel pump and have a look at the pickup tube