@crewcabf150


I'm not a fan of locks - but if you have them in - IGNORE the P0011 and P0021 for the time being - whether the solenoids are connected or not - doesn't matter.


I would not fool with coils or plugs either - UNTIL I have isolated and removed the P0201 (first) and P0171 (second). The conditions that is resulting in the P0201 code can VERY logically be the direct cause of the P0171. But I would not be looking for a vacuum leak UNTIL the 0201 is corrected, and then only if the P0171 still existed.


A P0171 code results when the PCM has "increased" fuel trims on that bank > 25% trying to establish the proper Fuel/Air mixture as determined and reported by the upstream O2 sensor on Bank1. If one injector is NOT delivering any fuel (or enough fuel), it would result in that bank very lean. Thus, the PCM would lengthen the injector pulse width (make fuel trim "+") causing the other 3 cylinders run excessively rich - and perhaps even misfire from being overly rich. When the fuel trims exceed 25% for a certain period of time, it results in the P0171.


You have swapped injectors around and "Redid wiring". Have you checked for presence of "+" voltage on the RED wire out of the harness, and continuity of the TAN wire all the way back to Pin 52 on the center plug on the PCM. (The engine wiring diagram is attached) The PCM must be able to pull the tan wire to ground to energize the injector. If those tests are affirmative (AND) the connection at the center plug on the PCM is good, you may have an intermittent or defective PCM output circuit for injector # 1. I HOPE NOT, put symptoms point that way.


Good Luck

 

Alright Torqued!

Will wait on the cigar smoke test, then.

Did the red wire and it showed adequate voltage but haven't done the tan wire test.
Will schedule this weekend cause the truck is at my additional parking @ 29 Palms about 2 hrs away from my real home near LA in SoCal.

Absolutely a nice return write up and will write the outcome of this very pestering f150 problem and really appreciate your input!

Bill'

 

I started with a loud diesel noise and knocking then lost all power. I have replaced the cats, timing guides, tensioners, chains, phasers, spark plugs and coils, variable timing solenoids, cam position sensors, and the fuel and air filters. I have regained power but now I have a rattling noise, it will sometimes, after warming up to running temp and getting RPMs up go into the diesel sound again and will stay there until you shut off and restart. Also still getting code for over retarded bank 2 and new codes of: too lean bank 2, very erratic misfire codes (first was cyl 5 then that went away and had cyl 6, 7 and random misfire, then those went away now cyl 1 and random misfire. also code for camshaft postion sensor bank 1 and ignition/primary coil F. The last thing that is happening is that after revving engine when RPMs come down the engine will just flat out die at least 40% of the time.


Any ideas on what I should look to next. The power is back, I suspected plugged cats, but the new rattle noise and random sounding like diesel plus codes are bothering me.

 

Obviously as an owner a few F150 trucks, yes 3 now, I watch this thread a lot, and had posted on this thread myself in the past.
I am curious why people are buying Livernois instead of an HPTuner when they are locking out the phasers? Seems to me that the HPTuner gives you a lot more control and isn't just a canned tune to disable the VVT like the Livernois.
$200 cheaper and I can actually change calibration settings still after disabling the VVT, and have live data. Whether I want to change them or not, its cheaper, it does the same exact thing plus so much more.


I also did some more research and if you guys are locking out the phasers, look into tapping and capping the VCT solenoids to help with oil pressure.

These trucks can have VCT issues if oil pressure drops below 25psi at idle, which a lot of times happens on deceleration. The system is not meant to operate with this low of oil pressure, so often engines are condemned because of this. However 25psi at idle in a an engine not using a VCT system that is oil pressure controlled is more than sufficient to live a very long life.


I had to do the research on my own to find the questions a lot of us had asked Livernois and they couldn't give a straight answer. Now that I know that locking out phasers is a viable solution ( and why ), I want to know why the product they sell is $200 more then one that does more then just a tune.


Mike

 

It would be interesting to see an actual diagram of the oil passages/flow with these VCTs. I thought that if the lockouts are installed, that would help with the oiling?

 

The attached section from an 'O5 Factory Service Manual might assist.


But a couple of myths: Installing "lockouts" does NOT do one thing that will help (or hinder) oiling. Neither will any tune.

And, phasers do not 'require' 25psi at idle to function properly. Truth be known, at idle the ECU is applying ZERO duty cycle pulses to the VCT Solenoids (ZERO RETARD). There is NO retard below 25% engine load and/or below 800 rpm. 100% of all available oil flow is being routed into the advance chambers of the phasers. If the return clock spring and locking pin inside the phaser is functioning properly (OR the cam bearings / roller followers are not binding-dragging on cams), the vvt system is shut down and in the default position (identical to where it would be with lockouts installed). By the time the engine RPM exceeds 800 rpm, just about ANY engine will have > 25psi oil pressure which will unlock the spring loaded locking pin by the time the ECU requests any degree of cam retard.

 

Almost sounds like your timing install may be off slightly or something is reprogrammed and it doesn't like it or you have a few bad coils . If you have old oil change it and go 10w 40 .
The rattle sounds like VCT not getting enough oil again , I just did my 2006 F-150 and it is whisper quiet for now , I changed chains , guides , tensioners (they had gasket wear) vct solinoids , engine looked very clean only minor signs of sludge very minor on valve cover , I did not open up solenoid housing to clean and inspect (hope don't regret that) When we put everything back together I used new water pump , fan clutch , plugs , belt , t-stat , flushed anti freeze and a melling high pressure high volume oil pump . I put 10w 30w in and truck runs great , I may try 5w 30w on next oil change to see any difference . I used FORD VCP and Hy tensioners aftermarket for rest
Any ideas on what I should look to next. The power is back, I suspected plugged cats, but the new rattle noise and random sounding like diesel plus codes are bothering me.[/QUOTE]

 

Did the resistance between the tan wire at the #1 injector to the 52 socket at the ECM plug.
It was "0". Meaning no short.
Therefore, it must be my ECM that's causing the P0201 code.
I will work on obtaining an used ECM 2005 somewhere.
Let me know if this wrong?

Gracias for the help

 

In the finite space that I advocate "political correctness", just to be clear. Reading ZERO ohms between the injector pin 1 and ECU plug means you have continuity - NOT open circuit (the wire ain't broken). for 'no short' test, with the plugs disconnected at both ends, read infinite ohms - no continuity - from pin at either end to frame ground.


Those tests being affirmative - I DO NOT KNOW HOW one could test the ECU output circuit, but in my view there is nothing else that could give the circuit fault code after verifying the O2 heater circuit wiring is good and replacing the O2 sensor.


PLEASE, if we are missing something - would someone else help us out here.

 

K

I have had the O2 fore and aft replaced during this debacle. Should I recheck those connections ?