He says I have a P0201 code

Has a new injector, wire end and we checked the wiring loom.

Any suggestions?

Doing a test drive today.

 

Disconnect the battery, pull and inspect the PCM plugs. You probably have corrosion or damaged wire between injector and pcm. You're mechanic replaced the injector plug you said. Maybe it didn't make a good connection there?

 

Well...
Drove out to the desert to see my beloved f150 (temp expected to be 120 on Monday) yesterday. Started up, added trans fluid b/c lost fluid when removing dip stick, no rattling, but surging and missing.
After 2-3 miles died and wouldn't restart.
P0191 code. Fuel rail problem.
Had it towed back
Maybe the cause of the P0201 code?
Just had the tank pump replaced so I'm thinking tank module defective or pressure control valve ?

 

Please help. I think I am having similar issues (timing chain knocking) with my 05'. I have 150,000 miles and mechanic is saying that they won't know the extent of the repair/damage until they pull the engine apart. Best case replace tensioners ($2000), worst case a new engine ($6500) based on potential damage to head or cam shafts.

We were planning on getting a new truck next year. Is it worthwhile to spend this amount of money if I only plan on keeping it another year?

 

No. It's not worth the expense to have a professional do the repair with all the premium components, mentioned in the beginning of this thread. You would be closer to $3000. Sell it or trade it in and let somebody else deal with it.

 

we just did the overhaul today...pulled the passenger side valve cover off without discharging / removing A/C...wow what a PITA! Took the whole day but WOW....so much better....I changed everything - Cloyes timing kit with tensioners, guides, sprocket and chains...as well as new phasers even though mine were quiet..and I bought VC and timing cover gaskets as I didn't want to redo anything.. I had severe chain slapping and wicked start up rattle.

Now it runs so quiet...couldn't be happier!

 

And I would say for everything including oil and filter I'm into it for around $600....a heck of a lot cheaper than a couple grand!

 

I have a 04 screw. I started hearing the tick while I was on a camp out with Boy Scouts. It was a very cold night and I started my truck to warm up as I slept in the cab since I arrived to late to mess with tent setup. At that time it was about 6 months old with less that 5k on it. Dealer said it was normal. Im guessing they just didn't want to do it on warr. I now have 85k on it and still have the ticking. Some days it is quiet but not very often. I recently switched to full synthetic oil (amsoil). It seemed to help a tad but no enough. If I do the repair it will be the full deal. Possibly rockers and all. I didn't buy a diesel but it sounds like it some times.

 

@Techmantim , your story echos mine experience to the letter. "Diesel rattle" AND the "tick" almost immediately off the showroom floor in March 2004. But I can tell you (and @07supercrew) that if you can stand the signature sound, and your friends asking you what the hell is wrong with your truck, with good maintenance it can go a long time. My '04 went to 212,000 before I had a persistent P0022 code and tore into it. I think it had broken chain guides for literally thousands of miles - probably caused by the period of intermittent misfires that so many forum members experience and find hard to diagnose and eliminate. Frequent oil changes with good synthetic oil & Motorcraft Filters, Motorcraft Plug changes EARLY (Not @ 100k miles) to keep chains from slapping the hell out of guides when it misfires, and it will serve you well.


I believe the "diesel sound" originates from a small amount of slack / slop in the spring loaded locking pin inside the Phaser that's designed to lock the cams at Zero degrees during idle (< 800 RPM and at low / idle oil pressures < 25 lbs). It is caused by the irregular torque required to rotate the cam shafts against (forward/backward) valve spring resistance. I believe the "tick" originates from slight leak-down of some of the lash adjusters during slow compression of valve springs at low RPMs or idle. (For some reason -??- usually rear passenger's side). Neither are harmful except the annoyance.


And I agree with you, (as I did) once you attack it - change EVERYTHING that moves / rolls / or giggles - including the oil pump. I love my truck all over again after my recent, very successful, Phaser job - following all the good advice of the OP and posters on this thread.

 

It started up and we able to move it in the driveway today.

?????