Thank you very much! I believe that you are correct but I want to quadruple check everything before I button her back up, it's quite a job. I did find the problem too! Busted right chain guide, bent right phaser and probable failing right tensioner.


Also broke loose all 8 plugs, and the left rear one screwed out by hand. You can kind of feel which ones are going to give you trouble. I'm letting them soak overnight and will work on them again tomorrow.


Thanks again!

 

I can't believe how much of a turd these trucks are lol...I love it but hate it...manifolds, clutches, water leaks and now the death rattle! Thanks Ford.....

BTW...excellent write-up...gonna have to order my parts..

 

question though....do you need the Camshaft Gear Installation Tool?

 

I am not sure what tool you are referring to. The phaser slips on and off by hand, no tools should be used to do this. I did buy the Cam Tool Set to lock the cam for removing and re-torqueing the phaser bolt. The phaser bolt torques on with a big 1/2 inch breaker bar and the idea of trying to hold the cam tight with a vise grip didn't appeal to me. If anyone wants to borrow this tool I'd be glad to pass it around, hopefully I won't need it again. You obviously don't need the timing chain wedge if you're replacing the chains, but the kit on amazon was cheaper than buying the piece separately. You can't beat Amazon Prime.


BTW, you forgot to complain about the spark plugs.

 

A couple of observations from a novice:

1) The bolt locations shown leave out the 4 bolts on the bottom of the timing cover.





The timing diagrams are misleading. The relative positions of the phasers and crank are not exact. In my case, with the dot at 6 o'clock, the right phaser is at 11 and the left at 1. It doesn't make any difference what position the crank dot is in when you align the chains so long as the colored links are on the dot and the arrows.





This is what the relative positions look like with the dot a 6 o'clock.





The metal tab on the tensioners is the clip to hold them compressed for installation and must be removed after the tensioners are torqued down.





The crank trigger wheel is installed with the tabs facing outward, towards the radiator.

 

Anyone ever use Evergreen parts with success?

 

Got the plugs out yesterday, it was MUCH easier than expected. The key to removing these guys is patience which explains why so many folks have problems with them. I let them soak overnight in Kroil, but any penetrating oil would work. I then cracked them 1/8-1/4 turn and let them sit overnight again. I then removed them and if one started getting tight I backed it in 1/4 to 1/2 turn and then back out. Only had to do this on 3 plugs, the rest came straight out and only one plug made any noise at all.




I am still left with a nagging concern that the crank mark should have been at the 6 o'clock position and not the 7 o'clock when I installed the chains. But I have thought about it and thought about it and to the very best of my reasoning I can't see how it could possibly make any difference what position the crank is in when the chains are installed as long as the links and marks are all lined up. But I've been known to be wrong in the past. We'll see, I did, at least pull the motor through a couple of revs to make sure there was no piston to valve contact.


By far the most difficult part of this job, for me, was the power steering pump. I can't even imagine trying to remove it with a regular combo wrench not a ratcheting one. Installing was even worse than taking it off. I finally found that all 3 bolts need to be inserted and the pump lined up and held in place over the alignment tubes. Then the top forward bolt can be started followed by top rear and then the lower forward bolt. Then the bolts need to tightened evenly, a little at a time, to pull the unit straight on over the tubes without getting cocked and binding. What a PITA. Also, the high pressure outlet on the bottom of the pump seems to move freely now, and yes the hold down bolt is tight but the inner pipe moves freely. A new PS high pressure line may be in the cards.

 

Okay, after looking at the pictures again and going over this in my head I see what I did wrong with the power steering pump. The reservoir and support need to be removed so that the left valve cover can come off but only the upper and lower forward bolts on the PS pump need to be removed. The pump itself, and the top rear pump bolt can be left in place, the timing cover is freed when the two front bolts are removed, the pump does not have to come off of the alignment tubes. Oh well, if I ever need to replace the pump I now know the procedure.

 

I went ahead and ordered the recommended cloyes / Dorman stuff...not gonna chance it

 

Well, the good news is that I am correct, the location of the crank dot is irrelevant, she started up and runs great.


The bad news is that I reversed the left and right chain tensioner guides, the one with the bump near the pivot shaft is on the left and it should be on the right.


The good news is that I won't have to pull the valve covers, just loosen them and remove the timing cover. Rats, stupid mistake.





This is my motor with the new chains and guides.




This is one assembled properly