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The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound

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Old Apr 15, 2016 | 07:31 AM
  #2711  
NOTAGT's Avatar
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The lockout tune only deals with the phasers, the SCT tune does not, so yes the tunes can work together . And I checked with Livernois to see if this was okay.

Sorry, ElliotTheCarpenter, you think that is funny. Attached is what a start up rattle is doing to the timing chain cover.This was due to the passenger side chain stretched. This side also had a failed tensioner seal.
Attached Thumbnails The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound-image.jpeg  

Last edited by NOTAGT; Apr 15, 2016 at 09:29 AM.
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Old Apr 15, 2016 | 09:33 AM
  #2712  
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Nice pics F150Torqued! I expect I will find something similar when I get my timing cover off.
With 200K on it, anything is possible in there! I hear what you are saying on cleaning the sump screen. It is probably best to check it all out and know it is good. It won't help installing a better oil pump if it can get oil to start with!
As for the tuner, I don't know how well this will work, but I bought a SCT tuner from MPT, and MPT is making me 3 custom tunes to work with the lockouts. As my truck is just a stock truck they are making me programs for economy, towing and performance with a stock trans. It appears that they can accommodate pretty much any mods you have done to your truck. I can't wait until it is done to see how it runs! Of course at this point I would just be happy if it doesn't rattle and shake! lol
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Old Apr 15, 2016 | 11:34 AM
  #2713  
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I finally climbed under the truck today to check into the oil pan drop. I'm not sure it could be much easier. There is a cross member, 2 bolts on each end right out in the open. Remove that and it is wide open. The only thing that may be a little close is the steering rack, but a couple more bolts should give me room if I need it.
It helps that this is a 2wd! I bet the 4x4 would be fun!
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Old Apr 15, 2016 | 02:12 PM
  #2714  
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I got a jump start on my weekend project. Got a bunch of little stuff done anyway. Valve cover on driver side is about ready to pull, 1 pesky bolt in the back to go. Have to run off to work or I would have it off. I just can't wait to tackle the hard side!
I love my truck, I love my truck, I have to keep telling myself , haha
Granted, there will be a lot of time involved but once I am down to what I am trying to change I think it will go smooth. Just a lot of stuff mounted over what I need to get to. I guess every 200K miles or so it isn't that bad!
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Old Apr 15, 2016 | 02:33 PM
  #2715  
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Just a matter of another gasket and a couple more dabs of silicon.
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Old Apr 16, 2016 | 09:57 PM
  #2716  
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Project timing chain. lol so I got started on the truck around 9:45 this morning. I got both valve covers off, Driver side involves some finesse but it isn't too bad. the right side has so much stuff wire harnesses, heat and AC stuff, etc. Its not terrible to get the valve cover bolts loose, but it is a bugger to get it out! I did get it, and broke the VCT solenoid in the process. Just my luck I replaced one a week ago to try before going this route, and wouldn't you know I tossed the one I removed.
I dropped the cross-member under the engine, 2 bolts on each side, and oil pan drops right down no problem. Didn't find anything big in the pickup, there was one sliver of timing chain guide in the screen about 1 1/2 inched long, thin. I got timing cover off fairly easily, just used a balancer puller to get bottom pulley off. Before I go any farther, I want to mention that I turned engine to get timing marks in line before pulling cover or balancer.
Got cover off, and was surprised that nothing was broken. Guides are worn to heck but intact. Right chain was very tight(truck hasn't been run in 2 days), the left chain was big time loose! I could almost get it off the cam gear with guides in place. I could easily lift the chain an inch from the lower guide. I assume this is where the noise was coming from, I think the tensioner was leaking by the gasket, it has an odd looking spot on the gasket surface on the block. I verified my timing marks one more time, then locked vise grips on cams behind the phasers and pulled phasers and chains off. Took oil pump off and cleaned up a bit, then installed my new Melling M360( recommended by Melling over their 10340). I opened up the phasers and installed my locks, fit like a glove. Put phasers back on cams, installed the new chain kit and verified all timing is lined up, and re-checked, and re-checked! I wanted to be 100% sure we are good before putting cover back on.
All stuff tight and good, another cleaning put cover on and started getting things together. Climbed under the truck to put oil pan back on, I forgot to clean it. I pull it out from under truck and found the thrush washer off my main bearing laying in the pan! Awesome! I am going to order a set of crank bearings and hope the crank is OK. Hopefully just the thrush washer broke, I have seen that happen before in heavy duty diesels, with any luck I will be OK. Glad I found it now instead of it chewing stuff apart longer until something big goes boom!
So time- took me about 10 1/2 hrs to remove everything, and I have one valve cover and the fan to go tomorrow. And of course the engine bearing set.... Lucky the pan is easily accessible, its hanging by 2 bolts waiting for more parts I didn't use any air tools, all by hand, and did this with truck in my drive with truck sitting on 2 pieces of 2x8 under front tires to give a little more room underneath.
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Old Apr 17, 2016 | 12:02 AM
  #2717  
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Sounds like - so far, so good. Hope everything goes good with that thrust bearing.
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Old Apr 17, 2016 | 09:26 AM
  #2718  
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Thanks, I hope so too! Otherwise the job went well. Finishing up the top end this morning, mainly just have the right valve cover left to do. If that goes good I might tackle the spark plugs too, but thats another thread! haha
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Old Apr 19, 2016 | 11:46 AM
  #2719  
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Originally Posted by F150Torqued
Here is a guy who has tried it. Seems all he got was P0011 and P0021.


http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/14...installed.html


I've always said that if I was going to lock out the phasers, I would just take a short 1/4" bolt with nut, stick it in one of the chambers (of the OLD Phaser) and back the nut off against the other side nice and tight and leave it at that. The sprockets NEVER wear out any way. Why pay for new Phasers, or $700 to Livernois, or even $100 for an aluminum wedge.
In fact, unless you have other serious issues, all that is needed is to just UNPLUG the VCT Solenoids an leave them. That routes 100% of the available oil supply through the VCT (spool valves) into the advance chambers.


Nothing here should be construed to mean I am in favor of lockouts.
Yeah, that's me. Lockouts aren't for everyone, but I am very pleased with mine so far. I was OK with spending $100 for the lockouts, bolts and wedge tool. Seemed to be a good bang for my buck. However, I did consider taking the phasers to a buddy and just having him TIG the center to the sprocket body to make them solid.

As for the truck, it is still running fine. In fact, I can't tell a bit of difference in performance before and after, but then again I don't drive it like a bat out of hell either. I have periodically checked the codes and still just have the 11 and 12 codes. Unplugging the VCT's would definitely throw 2 more codes into the mix. They might not a big deal, but I chose to just leave them in place and connected and only have 2.

I've been looking at buying HP Tuners so I can just disable the VCT altogether with no CEL and maybe play with some other areas of tuning.

I am fascinated by your in-depth 'hacking' of the Ford PIDs for Torque Pro. Do you have a thread on here dedicated to discussing it? I have TP and a bluetooth adapter that I used to for our junkyard wars L67 powered Buick Regal GS drag car to monitor spark retard and stuff. Cool tool.

-James

Last edited by BigBlockRanger; Apr 19, 2016 at 12:08 PM.
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Old Apr 19, 2016 | 02:02 PM
  #2720  
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Default 2004 f150 ticking

I just bought the truck from a used auto dealer here in town and the mechanic there I talked to told me he replaced the cam phasers already so everything should be good. About a little over a month ago I started hearing a tick when idling and when I step on the gas it gets faster and louder. So since he said he replaced the phasers already I'm wondering what I should check next. Any ideas would be appreciated! Truck just hit 135k
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