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2004 - 2008 Ford F150 General discussion on the 2004 - 2008 Ford F150 truck.

The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound

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Old Mar 23, 2016 | 01:25 PM
  #2651  
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Originally Posted by LaMartian
Nope. I have some sound but that's because I now have headers and they're leaking.
Did you do lifters and followers at the same time? I figure I should since I'm there. Not much extra work.
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Old Mar 23, 2016 | 01:25 PM
  #2652  
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I did, and they're REALLY easy to do. Yes, you should definitely do them while in there.
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Old Mar 23, 2016 | 02:49 PM
  #2653  
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Originally Posted by LaMartian
I did, and they're REALLY easy to do. Yes, you should definitely do them while in there.
Are you a 5w20 or 5w30 guy lol?
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Old Mar 23, 2016 | 02:56 PM
  #2654  
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5W-30 but probably going to 5W-20 after this OCI is up
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Old Mar 23, 2016 | 03:10 PM
  #2655  
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Originally Posted by LaMartian
5W-30 but probably going to 5W-20 after this OCI is up
Why is that?
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Old Mar 24, 2016 | 07:01 AM
  #2656  
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Originally Posted by LaMartian
depends on what brand you want. I bought the full Motorcraft one off eBay's OEM Select store for $600 two years ago, but it's gone up since then.
Do you happen to know when the updated vct solenoids came out?

My truck was built 05/09.
Has the rough idle after working at low rpms for 15-20 min (plowing) i just give it some throttle and it goes away. Other than that i can only hear it when cruising at a low rpm and tip in. No codes thrown.

Thanks
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Old Mar 24, 2016 | 02:59 PM
  #2657  
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Originally Posted by HulluCorn
I'm starting this project in April. The parts will be ordered next Friday. I plan on using 2 OEM phasers and the cloyes timing kit. I'm terrified lol.
Decided to purchase all OEM today
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Old Mar 24, 2016 | 03:02 PM
  #2658  
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Good.
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Old Mar 29, 2016 | 02:23 PM
  #2659  
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Holy hell... where was this write up on cam phasers when I needed it 3 months ago? I google'd this topic exactly and didn't come up with this... ugh. $1600 later..

Originally Posted by F150Torqued
Sorry for the delay in response - I'm not as fast as the young sprouts and life got busy after spending a week doing a Phaser job.

@Fordjunkync is correct, I have ran Mobile 1 Full Synthetic sense new. I Can't point to a scientific reason or big name study that drove my decision. We are all sorta' burdened with old, long held oil viscosity theories - often from our own parents and I'm certainly no exception. But here is what logic I applied. My truck has 212,000 miles and I've always felt higher mileage called for higher viscosity. I've had an aftermarket Oil Pressure gauge installed for a year or so. Prior to the Phaser Job, I had gone to 0W40 - because: Cold Idle pressure was FINE with 5W20 (like 65 lbs) but would saagg to around 16lbs at hot idle] With 0W40 Cold Idle pressure was around 63, but hot idle was much better - around 19-21.

I did not know WHAT the effect of new Melling 10340 high volume pump OR new Phasers, Tensioners and lash adjusters would actually have on my pressures --- But basically I figured that; at that milage, the lower end probably would benefit from slightly higher weight. So I chose to start out with Mobile 1 full synt 5w30.

AS IT TURNS OUT --- I "may" try 5w20 on the first change because the oil pressure is really up there! With the 5w30, Cold idle is 90-95 lbs, and hot idle is 25-27. Even in gear with A/C on, it will be 24-25. I have noticed from prior experience that the oil pressure declines as the oil ages - and I have only driven about 100 miles since the Phaser job. So I plan to watch it until the first oil change. Also - it's noteworthy - Watching live data with the Torque Pro App - the Phasers / Cams react to PCM commanded retard positioning a little slower with thicker oils. I can see CAMERRR "bounce" negative 20-30 crankshaft degrees for a couple of seconds when the PCM calls for advance - and "Bounce" positive 20/30º for a couple of seconds when the PCM calls for retard. It just takes the Phasers a little time to get the cams positioned where they are supposed to be. /// OBDII Theory says >5º Error for > 5 Seconds = DTC P0021 or P0022 as appropriate /// I have observed this same thing with 5w20 - just shorter time. So all THAT will play into my decision whether to stay with 5w30 or go back to 5w20.

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Old Mar 31, 2016 | 09:34 AM
  #2660  
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Default Crank position tool.

Hello! Great write up! The only questions I have are, is it necessary to lock the cam? Can I use vise grips instead of the OCT tool? (Expensive! ) do I have to remove any followers on the engine to begine? Lastly, shouldn't the crank keyway be at 11 of clock with the mark at 6 of clock were the special tool puts it? And when you say TDC, do you mean the #1 cylinder? That's all. Thank you.
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