The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound
02-10-2016, 01:19 PM
#2571
OEM all the way. Dormans have been known to fail pretty quick on this topic. A lot of members have changed their phasers or had them changed with the Dormans and had to go back in to do the job all over again in a few months (sometimes a few weeks). OEM phasers, get a new set of tensioners, guides, chains and the crank sprocket as well. If I were you, I would change out the lash adjusters and followers at the same time since you will already have the valve covers off anyway. I had 13 bad lash adjusters out of 24, so I changed all of mine out when I did the job. About 20,000 miles later, still no noise and sounds great. You may also want to change your oil pump and water pump out while you have the front cover off. Also, make sure that you check the oil filler screen inside of the oil pan to look for any possible pieces of broken timing guide pieces that would restrict oil flow.
Good luck
Tom
Good luck
Tom
By any chance anyone have the part number i should be looking for?
02-10-2016, 10:15 PM
#2573
LightningRod
Very good source right here. 100% positive rating with 51,470 transactions. I got my Phasers from them - and I give them 5 Stars (more if I could) + 100 % on every aspect of the transaction.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/04-thru-10-F...mtr&rmvSB=true
I have just about completed collecting ALL my parts for a major complete timing job. Screwed up on one item - ordered an OTC cam set (cam locking too)l from USAtoolwarehouse.com and NEVER got it. Had to open a PayPal dispute trying to get my money back and reorder the tool elsewhere. Held up my repair start date - so I give them bastards Zero Stars and Zero % satisfaction.
Had a super nice Forum member loan me a spring compressor tool and crank positioning tool. About ready to pick a stretch of good weather days .....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/04-thru-10-F...mtr&rmvSB=true
I have just about completed collecting ALL my parts for a major complete timing job. Screwed up on one item - ordered an OTC cam set (cam locking too)l from USAtoolwarehouse.com and NEVER got it. Had to open a PayPal dispute trying to get my money back and reorder the tool elsewhere. Held up my repair start date - so I give them bastards Zero Stars and Zero % satisfaction.
Had a super nice Forum member loan me a spring compressor tool and crank positioning tool. About ready to pick a stretch of good weather days .....
02-11-2016, 06:27 PM
#2574
Junior Member
Chain markings
I have one question i have the front cover off and have not removed anything. my question is can the chains be installed backwards from factory? I have the L and R markings up on the phasers and keyway at 12 o clock marking at 6 o clock on crank. but the chain markings are backwards the 2 markings on the chain are lined up perfectly on the crank and the single marking on the chain is lined up perfectly on both phasers ..... am i way out of wack or were they installed backwards from factory
02-11-2016, 07:46 PM
#2575
Senior Member
Take a look in my photo album here and look at the cam lobe position pic. If your cam lobes are not facing as in the pic, then rotate your crank a full turn and then recheck the cam lobe position. Should then put you at the right position. Other than that, can you take a picture and post here so we can help out.
Good luck, let us know
Tom
Good luck, let us know
Tom
02-11-2016, 09:28 PM
#2576
Power Steering Pump
Hey guys, so far this thread has been a huge help! I'm sure this has already been answered before, but I've already gone through the first 80 pages and haven't seen what I need exactly.
I'm having a lot of issues getting the power steering pump off. I rented a pulley puller, removed the pulley no problem. The crux of my problem is that all the bolts on the actual pump are seized on pretty tight. I was able to remove the upper front-most bolt, by the rear-two bolts are completely stuck. With the frame towards the exterior and the front diff directly below, I can not figure out a way to get a socket in there. I've also tried some short wrenches, but I'm not able to get enough leverage on them, or get a breaker bar on them.
Three questions I have:
1) Since the front-most two bolts are removed from the pump. it appears that there is nothing securing it to the timing cover. Is that correct? Does this mean I can just pull the timing cover off and leave the pump attached?
2) If that is the case, does anyone have any advice for removing the rigid portion of the power steering line from the stud on the bottom right of the timing cover? Even if I could leave the pump attached to the engine, that bracket won't allow me to remove that stud.
3) If the answer to the first question is that the pump has to be completely removed from the block to get the timing cover off, does anyone have any tips for removing those two posterior bolts?
At this point, both the valve covers are off and all that's left in the teardown is to remove the timing cover. It's already taken me about 10 hours to get to this point, so any advice would be hugely appreciated so I can finish up the job! Thanks!
I'm having a lot of issues getting the power steering pump off. I rented a pulley puller, removed the pulley no problem. The crux of my problem is that all the bolts on the actual pump are seized on pretty tight. I was able to remove the upper front-most bolt, by the rear-two bolts are completely stuck. With the frame towards the exterior and the front diff directly below, I can not figure out a way to get a socket in there. I've also tried some short wrenches, but I'm not able to get enough leverage on them, or get a breaker bar on them.
Three questions I have:
1) Since the front-most two bolts are removed from the pump. it appears that there is nothing securing it to the timing cover. Is that correct? Does this mean I can just pull the timing cover off and leave the pump attached?
2) If that is the case, does anyone have any advice for removing the rigid portion of the power steering line from the stud on the bottom right of the timing cover? Even if I could leave the pump attached to the engine, that bracket won't allow me to remove that stud.
3) If the answer to the first question is that the pump has to be completely removed from the block to get the timing cover off, does anyone have any tips for removing those two posterior bolts?
At this point, both the valve covers are off and all that's left in the teardown is to remove the timing cover. It's already taken me about 10 hours to get to this point, so any advice would be hugely appreciated so I can finish up the job! Thanks!
02-11-2016, 09:54 PM
#2577
Camping enthusiast
Hey guys, so far this thread has been a huge help! I'm sure this has already been answered before, but I've already gone through the first 80 pages and haven't seen what I need exactly.
I'm having a lot of issues getting the power steering pump off. I rented a pulley puller, removed the pulley no problem. The crux of my problem is that all the bolts on the actual pump are seized on pretty tight. I was able to remove the upper front-most bolt, by the rear-two bolts are completely stuck. With the frame towards the exterior and the front diff directly below, I can not figure out a way to get a socket in there. I've also tried some short wrenches, but I'm not able to get enough leverage on them, or get a breaker bar on them.
Three questions I have:
1) Since the front-most two bolts are removed from the pump. it appears that there is nothing securing it to the timing cover. Is that correct? Does this mean I can just pull the timing cover off and leave the pump attached?
2) If that is the case, does anyone have any advice for removing the rigid portion of the power steering line from the stud on the bottom right of the timing cover? Even if I could leave the pump attached to the engine, that bracket won't allow me to remove that stud.
3) If the answer to the first question is that the pump has to be completely removed from the block to get the timing cover off, does anyone have any tips for removing those two posterior bolts?
At this point, both the valve covers are off and all that's left in the teardown is to remove the timing cover. It's already taken me about 10 hours to get to this point, so any advice would be hugely appreciated so I can finish up the job! Thanks!
I'm having a lot of issues getting the power steering pump off. I rented a pulley puller, removed the pulley no problem. The crux of my problem is that all the bolts on the actual pump are seized on pretty tight. I was able to remove the upper front-most bolt, by the rear-two bolts are completely stuck. With the frame towards the exterior and the front diff directly below, I can not figure out a way to get a socket in there. I've also tried some short wrenches, but I'm not able to get enough leverage on them, or get a breaker bar on them.
Three questions I have:
1) Since the front-most two bolts are removed from the pump. it appears that there is nothing securing it to the timing cover. Is that correct? Does this mean I can just pull the timing cover off and leave the pump attached?
2) If that is the case, does anyone have any advice for removing the rigid portion of the power steering line from the stud on the bottom right of the timing cover? Even if I could leave the pump attached to the engine, that bracket won't allow me to remove that stud.
3) If the answer to the first question is that the pump has to be completely removed from the block to get the timing cover off, does anyone have any tips for removing those two posterior bolts?
At this point, both the valve covers are off and all that's left in the teardown is to remove the timing cover. It's already taken me about 10 hours to get to this point, so any advice would be hugely appreciated so I can finish up the job! Thanks!
02-11-2016, 10:04 PM
#2578
Camping enthusiast
Getting the pump pulley back on was the hard part. The threads inside the ps shaft were rusted to the point of nonexistence. It was a miracle I was able to get the pulley pressed all the way on without having to buy a new pump.
02-11-2016, 11:08 PM
#2579
LightningRod
30 Chain Links BOTH DIRECTIONS
I have one question i have the front cover off and have not removed anything. my question is can the chains be installed backwards from factory? I have the L and R markings up on the phasers and keyway at 12 o clock marking at 6 o clock on crank. but the chain markings are backwards the 2 markings on the chain are lined up perfectly on the crank and the single marking on the chain is lined up perfectly on both phasers ..... am i way out of wack or were they installed backwards from factory
Don't be alarmed. JUST coincidently, you happened to stop your engine at that spot. It takes 122 crank revolutions for the marks to align with crank / cam marks again - because of the odd number of chain links (61). If you rotated your crank another 61 revolutions, the timing marks on the crank / phasers / chains would be all aligned again, but that would be a PITA.
See the post at:
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/final-r...3/#post4475795
A simple method to verify correct chain/cam timing is: Set Crank timing mark at 6:00 o'clock - WITH Phaser timing marks on the TOP SIDE of the Phasers (you may have to rotate the crank one revolution to accomplish this). Then "count chain links BOTH DIRECTIONS" - starting FROM the first link beside the timing mark on crank sprocket (not the one straddling the crank sprocket timing mark), all the way up TO THE TIMING MARK on either phaser. There should be exactly 30 chain links in BOTH DIRECTIONS from crank mark _TO_ Phaser mark if properly timed - NO MATTER WHERE THE CHAIN MARKS ARE LOCATED.
The marked links on the chain move ONE tooth position for each crank revolution - because there are an odd number of links in the chains.
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Dakkon85 (02-12-2016)
02-11-2016, 11:30 PM
#2580
How did you get the bracket holding the tube from the pump off the bottom right stud? I Was able to get it halfway off the stud just by moderately pulling on it, but didn't want to take a chance on snapping anything by forcing it too far.