The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Alright, I'm about at the end of my rope. Every time I seem to "get it fixed" it comes back.
Bought it June, Shaking/rough idle at low speeds going into parking lots etc. Replaced VCT solenoid on drivers side, cleared it up. Drove it for about a month, shortly before vacation, it idled rough at a single red light, just once, after I really put my foot into it. Code for CPS sensor on drivers side. Replaced it. Ran fine.
Drove it to Oregon, 3k miles round trip. I got a timing over advanced code while I was there, ran flawlessly on the way. Cleared the code, no issues rest of the trip, didn't notice it running bad at time of the code either. On the return trip, she gave me all sorts of grief. Got it home, changed out the passenger side CPS and Solenoid as well as did an oil change with thicker oil. Ran great until a couple weeks ago.
Had a random light it didn't like again, same codes, same thing. I had put 85 gas into it, so I thought maybe that was doing something, also thought maybe the oil was getting too thick with the temperature dropping going into fall. Kept doing it while I was pulling a car trailer + a car for about an hour, only at red lights, maybe 80% of the time, depending on AC off or on. Ran seafoam, switched to 87 gas, changed the oil to thinner oil.
Ran it today, ran fine until a red light, rough idle, CEL. This time; however, I got codes for open circuits including P0010, in addition to the over retarded timing code I normally get. I've gotten these codes before, of course when I unplug everything and run it without CPS/Solenoids plugged in.
Unplugging the CPS/Solenoids does not fix the issue or help it. Both solenoids/CPS are new. Oil is new. Right now it does it sort of randomly, sometimes I'm fine, sometimes it gives me grief. The confusing part, is why I'm suddenly getting these new codes for open circuits, now I'm thinking that in reality- the ghost I've been chasing in circles is actually bad wiring/electrical somewhere. Added to this suspicion is the fact that cruise only works sometimes, and will randomly shut off for zero reason sometimes.
She's an 04 fx4, 5.4 with 171k now. Runs flawlessly when not at idle, pulls trailers fine, no misfires, I've hauled cattle and cars no issues, it's just the idle. I'm about ready to just say screw it and put up with the bad idle if I can't solve it... or Just sell it. Any thoughts?
Bought it June, Shaking/rough idle at low speeds going into parking lots etc. Replaced VCT solenoid on drivers side, cleared it up. Drove it for about a month, shortly before vacation, it idled rough at a single red light, just once, after I really put my foot into it. Code for CPS sensor on drivers side. Replaced it. Ran fine.
Drove it to Oregon, 3k miles round trip. I got a timing over advanced code while I was there, ran flawlessly on the way. Cleared the code, no issues rest of the trip, didn't notice it running bad at time of the code either. On the return trip, she gave me all sorts of grief. Got it home, changed out the passenger side CPS and Solenoid as well as did an oil change with thicker oil. Ran great until a couple weeks ago.
Had a random light it didn't like again, same codes, same thing. I had put 85 gas into it, so I thought maybe that was doing something, also thought maybe the oil was getting too thick with the temperature dropping going into fall. Kept doing it while I was pulling a car trailer + a car for about an hour, only at red lights, maybe 80% of the time, depending on AC off or on. Ran seafoam, switched to 87 gas, changed the oil to thinner oil.
Ran it today, ran fine until a red light, rough idle, CEL. This time; however, I got codes for open circuits including P0010, in addition to the over retarded timing code I normally get. I've gotten these codes before, of course when I unplug everything and run it without CPS/Solenoids plugged in.
Unplugging the CPS/Solenoids does not fix the issue or help it. Both solenoids/CPS are new. Oil is new. Right now it does it sort of randomly, sometimes I'm fine, sometimes it gives me grief. The confusing part, is why I'm suddenly getting these new codes for open circuits, now I'm thinking that in reality- the ghost I've been chasing in circles is actually bad wiring/electrical somewhere. Added to this suspicion is the fact that cruise only works sometimes, and will randomly shut off for zero reason sometimes.
She's an 04 fx4, 5.4 with 171k now. Runs flawlessly when not at idle, pulls trailers fine, no misfires, I've hauled cattle and cars no issues, it's just the idle. I'm about ready to just say screw it and put up with the bad idle if I can't solve it... or Just sell it. Any thoughts?
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 1,994
Likes: 529
From: Martinez, Georgia
If you have the rattle at start up, chances are, one or both guides are broke and the tensioners need to be changed. If you are changing phasers, general advice is usually change the chains, tensioners and guides. I changed my lash adjusters and followers as well so I do not have to go back in again.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 1,994
Likes: 529
From: Martinez, Georgia
Sounds like your oil pressure is not enough. Oil pressure varies with engime rpm so it is lowest at idle. Check your oil pressure. I see you already changed to a thicker oil and that only temporarily solved your problem which either means your oil pump is getting in progressively worse shape or there is something else wrong that I don't know about.
A dude playing a dude
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 16,813
Likes: 2,065
From: Germany
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
One of the problems with broken guides is that the plastic pieces can end up in the oil pickup screen therefore blocking good oil flow from the pan. If your guides are broken, you really need to drop the oil pan and look. I used a diagnostic camera through the drain plug when I changed the oil. I do plan on dropping the pan and doing a visual inspection though, just haven't had the time.
The problem for me is that I have an f-250 and just taking off the oil pump is a huge pain in the *** on it. The cross member on the f-250 cannot be removed. You have to raise the engine up a few inches. In order to do that you also have to disconnect the transmission.
Last edited by zephyrpime; Nov 23, 2015 at 03:57 PM.
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 11
Likes: 1
Kit bought from Amazon!! Didn't turn out good for me
10mins after replaced
Fot the kit from Amazon was confident it was gunna fix everything. Well they said tensioner was bad because you could squeeze by hand and chain was slack on that side. Then they took off cam phaser on other side and pin broke off and chewed up inside. So I went and bought ford tensioner and bought another dorman phaser. Wish me luck!
A dude playing a dude
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 16,813
Likes: 2,065
From: Germany
Yeah, you're gonna need luck with that Dorman phaser. Take that piece of crap back and get a Motorcraft one, for the love of God, before you're either redoing this whole job in less than one oil change or worse, replacing the engine.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 1,994
Likes: 529
From: Martinez, Georgia
^Yea, good luck, especially if you are using the Dorman phasers. I have bought and used other Dorman parts but not for the timing or phaser components, they are known to fail prematurely and you are back to tearing it down again to repair . Use OEM phasers and timing components. I used OEM phasers, chains, guides, tensioners, lash adjusters and followers over 15,000 miles ago and the engine still sounds and runs great. Good Luck though.
Tom
Tom
Let's keep in mind hat MC phasers aren't perfect. I had a brand new one from the dealer with 1 of 3 pins backing out that holds the thing together. Luckily I was able to press it back in, and the phaser bolt head covers it so I don't have to worry about it working loose.