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How important is the front oil seal? I was hoping to reuse, since it looked fine after carefully removing.
Originally Posted by Phasedout
Finished late last night. Truck is running very well. Could not have done this job without the valuable experience from those on this forum and this Thread. In addition to Phasers, Timing components, I also replace all 24 cam followers and lifters. As mentioned by others on this post, you do not need to follow the service manual procedure for removing a few chosen followers to relieve pressure on the cams. Since my truck was in time before the job, I rotated the crankshaft so the timing mark on the sprocket was at 6 o'clock and the keyway was at 11 o'clock. Then I marked the bearing caps and cam shaft between the lobes as my centerline. Vise grip the shaft and alternately loosened the bearing caps to relieve pressure on the lobes. Replaced the followers and lifters, then re-installed the camshaft. The only ford or OTC special tool I highly recommend you buy is the phaser locking tool Ford #303-1046 or OTC 567614. It's a must to torque the phasers. I bought it from Amazon which sold it with the stupid cheese stick for replacing Phasers without removing the front cover. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ER4DP6P045VPPN
I was able to remove the pass side valve cover without removing feon. You have to constantly apply upward pressure on the line while sliding the cover out. It's a little scratched, but outside appearance is no concern for me. When you get a Felpro cover gasket kit, it come with new bolt grommets so you have to remove the bolts from the cover to replace those grommets. I left them all out and set my covers in place, then added the bolts. Much easier when re-installing and not have bolts scratch any of the lobes. I really had no problem with the PS pump. I removed the 3 bolts without removing the pulley. See picture of my wrench set up next to each bolt you remove. For the lower bolt with the stud, you need to crawl under the truck and use a long extension to get there. Remove the lower radiator hose and oil filter to give you more room.
The front oil seal was scary as hell. The service manual tells you to install after front cover is installed using, you guessed it, a special tool costing over a hundred dollars. Local parts store did not have one to rent. I had a steel plate from a brake caliper pressing tool and a dead blow. Could have easily cracked the aluminum front cover with the pounding I did to get it installed. Other than that, It was a challenging job, but in the end I saved about $3,200 as the local Ford dealer gave me quote to do the job for $4,000. I bought OEM Phasers, Cloyes Timing kit, Felpro Valve cover gaskets and Victor Reinz front cover gasket. The cam followers and lifters I purchased from OEM Select Parts through eBay. Lowest cost I could fine. http://www.ebay.com/itm/261549100318...true#vi-ilComp
If I think of anything else that might help others I'll post and will follow this Thread to help others as so many before me, helped be build the confidence to do it myself. Thanks again everyone.
I was hoping to reuse, since it looked fine after carefully removing.
In general Ive reused seals in different applications (including crank seals) but if there is doubt in a seal not functioning properly then its in best practice to replace it.
If it does leak you can always go back & replace it later.
In general Ive reused seals in different applications (including crank seals) but if there is doubt in a seal not functioning properly then its in best practice to replace it.
If it does leak you can always go back & replace it later.
Your
decision
time
money
tolerance
.
Agree. I replaced mine, but the old one appeared to be fine and could have been reused. I had a shop press available to pop in/out the seal, so for less than $5 I did it.
Agree. I replaced mine, but the old one appeared to be fine and could have been reused. I had a shop press available to pop in/out the seal, so for less than $5 I did it.
I normally do it the hard way, a flathead screwdriver, chisel, socket & hammer LoL
Well gang, it's been a week now and truck has been running great UNTIL, after driving highway 70 MPH for 20 minutes, came to a stop at the off ramp and (for lack of a better description) stumbled. Same issue before but no rattle, diesel'ing, idled as really low at 500 RPM, oil pressure gauge I installed a few months back showing roughly 10 PSI. Rev'd up RPM and quiet, smooth, oil press back up to 20. So let me go through what's known: no codes, spark plugs 4 mths old, crankshaft position sensor and both camshaft position sensors replaced 2 mths ago, oil pickup tube (screen) replaced and visually clean when I did the timing job last week, oil level solid new MC filter and 5W-20, no visual leaks from any covers, new phaser bolts for new phasers, VCT valves 3 mths old and cleaned with throttle body cleaner during timing job, cleaned throttle body and MAF during timing job. Oil pressure at high temp seems to be the trigger. in the morning cold startup I'm getting 70 PSI, after 15 min and engine at temp, then I'm getting 40-55 at 2000 RPM. Before this post, drove 10 min for beer and in driveway quiet at 600 RPM & 20 PSI oil. Based on my research, I've read that at low RPM the PCM tells VCT to hold or full advance unless I'm missing something. I understand temp and viscosity changes, but wondering if there may be some oil passage ways sludged, I really don't want to use Seafoam, but tempted. The oil pump looked fine, no slop in the rotation.
Any advice?
Last edited by Phasedout; Aug 27, 2015 at 07:25 AM.
I replaced mine because it came with Front cover seal kit
Mine came with it too, but I'm wondering if it's worth the hassle. I guess I don't see why I can't install with a large socket or something prior to putting the front cover back on.
Based on my research, I've read that at low RPM the PCM tells VCT to hold or full advance unless I'm missing something.
My programmer shows VCT "0" (duty cycle %) @
start up
idle-hot/cold
deceleration
"0" is full advance
Unpluging the VCTs is said leaves the VCTs @ full advance.
http://www.expertswrite.net/tech/33-ford-vvt.html
The locking pin which prevents unintended movement and is located inside of the phaser.
This pin prevents the camshaft sprocket from rotating independently from the sprocket whenever the engine is started. Oil pressure is fed to the pin, which releases the camshaft from the phaser and allows VCT operation to begin.
There are many enabling conditions that need to be met before this process starts.
Two operating variables is that engine oil temperature must be normal and engine speed must be above 800RPM, otherwise the system is inactive and should be defaulted at idle.
.
Last edited by Fordjunkync; Aug 28, 2015 at 05:55 AM.
WTF, drive home after 20 highway, I intentionally drove slow in lot, threw P0300 multiple misfires pending. Then slow into drive way threw the fricken P0340 and P0345. But no rattle, or chain slap like before, so I believe tension is still good even at 10 PSI oil. I read in this post to clean VCT solenoid valves with throttle body cleaner, could that have damaged them? I unplugged the VCT valve connectors, then drove around town, in parking lots, etc. Engine still hot, no stumbling. I erased codes and after dinner, going to drive 20 min highway then parking lots to confirm. The VCTs are Dormans only 3 mths old.
With VCT valves disconnected, drove for 20, then puttered around parking lot, start/stop. Oil PSI 10 at 500 RPM, No stumbling or codes. So either the new Ford Phasers are faulty, the Dormans are, oil pump (ugh), or sludge in small cavities constricting flow to VCT and Phaser bolt.
Last edited by Phasedout; Aug 27, 2015 at 08:45 PM.
