I haven't opened mine up yet, but saw good tips about excessive play in rollers and lash adjusters sticking. I can't afford to open those covers twice, or pull the phaser with the cheese tool to do it after the timing job. If your covers are off and you have a follower out, send us some pictures. Here's a great video at the end he starts saying Ticky, Ticky, Ticky. LOL Good luck with the job.

 

My truck did the identical thing as yours but didn't spit out any codes, the only time I received any codes was when the VCT solenoid went. My opinion is that you never jumped a tooth, It is just that there is to much slack in your chains. If I were you I would be planning on changing the chain, tensioners, guides and phasers soon at this point. Just my two cents is to put in the lock outs as I recommend it to anyone that has these issues. I tried to fix it a couple of times just to have issues resurface later. If you are worried about saving the $200 in gas a year and having variable timing then a truck is not for you lol. September will be 2 years and my truck has never ran better and cant have phaser issues ever again either

 

My symptoms were just the chain slap when starting and the diesel sound, and the I could hear the tapping like I had some bad lifters (lash adjusters). No codes or poor performance. After the install, I got the timing retarded code. I pulled both of my VCT solenoids and sprayed them with throttle body cleaner because I forgot to do that during install and then dipped them in oil before reinstalling. Good to go for over a year now with no issues or noise from them. Now of course, I have developed a passenger side exhaust manifold leak but I am waiting for cooler weather before I tackle that monster of a job.

Good luck
Tom

 

Glad to here the lockouts helped solve your issues, and thank you for helping spread the word! This is a very common issue that will resurface as mentioned. Many report this to us and are at their wits end with these engines before installing our lockouts. Many people claim they are on the 2nd or 3rd go at resolving the issue after replacing all of the timing components and the phasers sometimes twice. Once they have installed our repair kit, the cam phaser malfunction is a thing of the past.

 

Hey All,

After reading through this thread, I am hoping for a bit of direction. I have an 06 5.4 that came down with the dreaded P0012 and P00300 codes. Was driving to a friends house for dinner, started running extremely rough. Pulled over, tried to let it idle and run, but wouldnt get any better. Had it towed to my shop where its been for the last 4 days. Both them and ford have looked at it, and are telling me a full teardown for cam phaser and possibly more, but they are recommending a new engine.

I have just recently done plugs and number of CP's. The shop changed the oil which seemed to help a bit, but its still idling real rough. It does seem to clear up a bit at higher RPM. They are telling me that it may have jumped a tooth on the timing chain :-/

They are basically suggesting a new motor at a bill of about $8k. At this point, I have put too much time, money, and effort into this crummy 5.4 to want to touch it anymore. The concern is if I go to trade it in in the condition it is in, I might get totally boned on my trade in value.

Is there a chance that VCT solenoids may help this, even if its just enough to clear the bank 1 code and trade it in?

I welcome any thoughts as I am at my wits end since I JUST paid this truck off and just put all new suspension on it.

 

My truck did the same thing and it was the driver side VCT solenoid. I was told I need a new engine too. A piece of the screen
Falls out and wedges the solenoid open causing it to run retarded or over advanced. 8k fix fixed for 90$

 

Mif, I agree with last post. If you've read my intro post, we are 06 5.4 brothers. Same story exactly, and I replaced both VCTs myself for $110, and no rough idle or codes. You'll need a torx 27 bit, then use elec tape to wrap bit to driver and extensions as it's about 7" down there. Bolt captured to valve so no worry about dropping.

 

Thanks for the tips. Since it is at a shop by a local ford dealer, I am going to have them limp it over there today and have them do it. I really hope that doing the driver side one clears it up as I am going to lose all the money I have put into that truck

Is there a video guide of replacing that driver side VCT?

Thanks for the help guys, wish me luck.

 

Spoke too soon. Ford is showing over 16 codes now for both banks, over retard, under retard.

RIP. I will be trying to limp this to a dealer to trade in on something else.

 

A jammed VCT solenoid will do exactly that. It's worth it to pull them and check the screens.