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The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound
Originally Posted by The Fool
Mine wasn't throwing any codes at all the last time it was hooked up to a scanner, but that was before the low idle/ dying thing started. The CEL did come on for a moment when it died on the highway, but only stayed on until restart.
The dealership said the solenoids were fine. He also said the knock/tick sounds like the 3k RPM variety VS the 6k dieseling variety the 5.4 usually has??
He thought it might be piston slap, so I put 10-40w in and that made NO difference in the sound. The volume and severity of the knock fluctuates driving around town and doesn't seem to correlate to driving speed. Any ideas? Thanks guys!
I'd try the VCT solenoids. You said you've got an 05 correct? Those are easier than my 07 because my valve covers got reengineered to have a permanent gasket around the solenoids. Yours you can pull the gasket, and remove the solenoid without pulling the valve covers.
Good to have confirmation that it fits. I've been doing some research and discovered the M360 is only high pressure, not high volume. Ford Racing sells a high volume/high pressure pump that actually costs a bit less than the Melling. While higher pressure can't hurt, my concern is the volume being delivered to the top end, so I am leaning toward the Ford pump. However, I'm concerned about a high volume pump sucking oil out of the pan faster than it runs back in, so I'm thinking about installing a higher capacity oil pan and/or a remote oil filter mount that accomodates two filters.
Let me know how this goes. I am considering switching to the Ford Racing pump, part #M-6600-F46 and only then tackling solenoids, tensioners, guides, chains and phasers IF NECESSARY. Is this a silly idea?
I have an 07 5.4 with 80k miles. Light rattle/tick at hot idle audible up to about 1400 rpm. The frequency definitely follows the rpm. Cannot hear the sound in cab, only with windows down and going through a drive-in or passing parked cars. If I uploaded a video would someone who really knows about problems within the timing set be willing to listen?
Last edited by bullwinkle89; Jul 11, 2015 at 10:21 PM.
No doubt everyone on here will be glad to listen and give an opinion.
It's my belief that the root problem lies in the plastic chain tensioners. When they blow out oil pressure is lost or reduced to the top end and the VVT solenoids and VCT gears, leading to chain damage and guide damage, along with valve lash adjusters and rocker arms.
While probably not necessary to replace the oil pump, I feel that plenty of oil to the top end is a good thing, and since I tow a lot a high volume pump is in order. However, I seriously doubt you will find you just need an oil pump, too many other things depend on that pump. Your description sounds like a collapsed lifter.
Not sure if yours did exactly the same or not but mine died on the hwy & it wouldn't start up until I sat there a few minutes, I tried the pedal to the floor to build oil psi with no luck & then disconnected the battery to see if it helped but it didn't.
After that episode I replaced the timing parts etc & its not shut off like that since.
I didnt find any timing parts damaged nor did I find a blown tensioner seal.
I wished I had a oil psi gauge on it at that time because I question the oil psi.
Originally Posted by The Fool
Mine wasn't throwing any codes at all the last time it was hooked up to a scanner, but that was before the low idle/ dying thing started. The CEL did come on for a moment when it died on the highway, but only stayed on until restart.
.
Last edited by Fordjunkync; Jul 12, 2015 at 02:40 AM.
Im using the M-6600-F46 oil pump.
Its a standard volume, high psi oil pump (on a 3-valve engine).
(I say standard volume because ford used a high volume oil pump as a standard on the 3valve engines)
For comparison wise if this pump was to be used on a 2-valve 5.4/4.6 then it would be noted as high volume & high psi. (of course to be able to use it on a 2valve engine would require the 13/16" pickup tube to be replaced by a 15/16" pickup tube)
A 15/16" pickup tube fits high volume oil pumps.
Originally Posted by bullwinkle89
Let me know how this goes. I am considering switching to the Ford Racing pump, part #M-6600-F46 and only then tackling solenoids, tensioners, guides, chains and phasers IF NECESSARY. Is this a silly idea?
Your description describes how mine was doing.
Originally Posted by bullwinkle89
I have an 07 5.4 with 80k miles. Light rattle/tick at hot idle audible up to about 1400 rpm. The frequency definitely follows the rpm. Cannot hear the sound in cab, only with windows down and going through a drive-in or passing parked cars.
.
Last edited by Fordjunkync; Jul 12, 2015 at 02:41 AM.
No doubt everyone on here will be glad to listen and give an opinion.
It's my belief that the root problem lies in the plastic chain tensioners. When they blow out oil pressure is lost or reduced to the top end and the VVT solenoids and VCT gears, leading to chain damage and guide damage, along with valve lash adjusters and rocker arms.
While probably not necessary to replace the oil pump, I feel that plenty of oil to the top end is a good thing, and since I tow a lot a high volume pump is in order. However, I seriously doubt you will find you just need an oil pump, too many other things depend on that pump. Your description sounds like a collapsed lifter.
Can you shoot a video standing next to the engine with the hood open, and maybe at the front wheel wells? Kinda hard to hear and try to pinpoint with video just inside the cab. To me, from this one it sounds like a combination of exhaust manifold leak and a couple lash adjusters are not opening properly.
Millinex, was yours throwing codes, or did you just change them to upgrade?
It threw the p0022 code after a few days of doing it. I got the same code and a p0345 today after hitting a few bumps and jarring the cam position sensor loose since it has a broken clip.
Replacing the timing components , solenoids, oil pumps , etc is only going to buy you some time. Why continue to throw your money away fighting a never ending battle? The underlying issue is that the engine has changed internally and is now unable to deliver proper oil pressure to the phaser that is needed to function properly. We have developed the cam phaser noise repair kit to resolve these dreaded cam phaser issues that all of the 4.6L / 5.4L are going to experience at some point in their lifetime. We take phone calls all day long from guys that seem to have a very similar story with no actual resolution. Most have done some repair previously that was a temporary fix, but it will always come back with time. Many have told us they installed replacement phasers, timing set, solenoids, oil pump, etc just to find the problem returning again and again. The Livernois Motorsports cam phaser noise repair kit is the answer to all of your 3 valve modular engines endless phaser issues.
Typically the engine will run fine at a cold start, and once it reaches operating temperature and comes to a low RPM / idle scenario the issues begin. The engine warms up, oil pressure drops, vehicle comes to a stop sign , and the trouble starts. Begins as an annoying tick / rattle sound which becomes a dieseling. The dieseling eventually leads to drivability issues as one bank becomes out of sync with the other from the phaser not sweeping properly. Most vehicles if left in this condition will start to surge and shake at an idle like the engine's timing is off. DTC codes are also very common when the problem gets passed the noise stage. They throw codes for timing over advanced / retard as the phasers are not operating correctly.
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The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound
