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The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound

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Old Jul 1, 2015 | 08:26 AM
  #2071  
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Originally Posted by wrvond
I'm very interested in putting the M360 in my '06 model, but since everything I've read says it isn't for our engine, I am hesitant to order it. Is there some reference that led you to believe it will work well on our engines? I'm assuming you don't have yours back together yet, so don't know if it even fits properly yet...
The M360 is a higher flow oil pump used in the supercharged 5.4L. I do have it installed and it bolted up perfectly. I did get the older steal tensioners also. I have the motor all back together I just need to put the accessories back on, reconnect all the wiring and hoses, and refill the oil and coolant. I started on Thursday night and have worked on it here and there whenever I've had time. Both tensioner seal were bad and one of the chain guides was broken. I found one of the broken pieces on the front of the motor, but was missing one. I dropped the oil pan and sure enough I found it stuck in the screen of the oil pickup tube. Definitely needed to be done, I just hope I did everything right.
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Old Jul 1, 2015 | 09:02 AM
  #2072  
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Good to have confirmation that it fits. I've been doing some research and discovered the M360 is only high pressure, not high volume. Ford Racing sells a high volume/high pressure pump that actually costs a bit less than the Melling. While higher pressure can't hurt, my concern is the volume being delivered to the top end, so I am leaning toward the Ford pump. However, I'm concerned about a high volume pump sucking oil out of the pan faster than it runs back in, so I'm thinking about installing a higher capacity oil pan and/or a remote oil filter mount that accomodates two filters.
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Old Jul 2, 2015 | 09:39 AM
  #2073  
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I got my engine back together last night. I cranked for 10 sec five times with the pedal to the floor and then started it. It did not rattle at all, and runs great. I let it idle up to temperature and there's no cam phaser noise. There's just a ticking from the injectors which can not be heard with the hood closed. I started it again this morning and again no rattle at startup. I was so used to the noise at startup it's weird to hear it start so smoothly.

I am so thankful to everyone on here for answering my questions along the way and all those who have posted on here in the past. Having all the details and a plan before I started helped a lot.

I just need to reinstall the frame cross member and swaybar before I can take it for a ride. Then I need have to have the AC system recharged.

Last edited by neshoc; Jul 4, 2015 at 11:48 AM.
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Old Jul 2, 2015 | 03:27 PM
  #2074  
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Congratulations!
I got an email from my credit union letting me know I am "pre-approved" for a car loan, which got me thinking I might just trade mine in, rather than spend the time, effort, and money to fix it. Trading it in would give me the opportunity to get something with seating for four (I have a regular cab), and lower miles (getting close to 100,000).
I spent all day today researching and determined there is not another engine I like better than this one. I'm convinced that once I replace the oil pump, rockers/lifters, and timing components, I'll never have this problem again. While the Eco-beast might put out bigger numbers, turbos are just a nightmare waiting to happen IMHO. And who wants another car payments anyway?
So I've made the decision to proceed with this repair, and hope I meet with the same degree of success you have.
Enjoy your quiet truck!

Last edited by wrvond; Jul 2, 2015 at 03:42 PM.
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Old Jul 3, 2015 | 12:50 PM
  #2075  
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ALL oil pumps that use a 15/16 pickup tube are High volume
Even the STOCK OEM 3valve oilpump is high volume.



The for-sale ads wording/terminology on what engine there where specified for is what makes it confusing when comparing the 3valve oilpumps.

Note there is several differences in the face of the 15/16" vs 13/16" pumps, the main giveaway is the 15/16" pumps face had to be clearanced to fit at the crank due to the larger rotor gear inside the pump.

As standard
2-valve engines came with a 13/16" pump(11mm rotorgear)
4-valve engines came with a 15/16" pump(13mm rotorgear)
3-valve engines came with a 15/16" pump(13mm rotorgear)

Stock 3v oil pump is 60psi
M340 is 60psi
M10340 is a high psi version of the M340 (comes with a extra spring to lower the psi if desired)
M360 is 75psi. (Jasperengines) uses this in there 3valve engines
(I have more info on these pumps but didnt want to post until I gathered more as in comparison)

I went with a fordsmotorsport/racing higher than stock psi pump (like the M360) & 5w30 oil (at the same time).

So far Ive only put 3300 miles (EDIT-Note the current mileage in my signature) on my engine since I replaced the phasers & down in parts (I used OEM parts).








.

Last edited by Fordjunkync; Mar 9, 2025 at 12:54 AM.
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Old Jul 3, 2015 | 10:25 PM
  #2076  
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Yep, I talked to George at Melling. He advised me to go with the iron tensioners to begin with, which I plan on doing. I think the plastic tensioners are just about the weakest link in the system. I am still planning on going with the Ford Racing oil pump. I don't think increased pressure alone is the complete answer. The Ford Racing pump delivers higher volume as well, which I think is key to a healthier top end.
Since I'm not in a super rush to get this work done, I believe I'm going to install a pressure gauge first to record the various pressures my current pump is delivering.
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Old Jul 3, 2015 | 11:53 PM
  #2077  
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The stock OEM 3valve oil pump is "high volume" also.

Another option to look into on oilpump choices (its not really necessary in low power low rpm engines) is those with a billet rotor/gear. Not all FORDs are & some of the Mellings do.
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Old Jul 4, 2015 | 11:54 AM
  #2078  
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Since getting it all back together, I've taken my truck out for a couple of short rides and it is still running great. I haven't gotten on it yet since I want to change the oil first. How many miles should I wait before changing the oil, or should I do it right away? I've only put about 5 to 10 miles on it since putting it back together. I'm assuming that is enough to flush out any junk that might have fallen in. What do you think?

Last edited by neshoc; Jul 4, 2015 at 11:57 AM.
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Old Jul 4, 2015 | 12:28 PM
  #2079  
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I changed mine out during the repair because I also changed out the lash adjusters and really didn't want any dirty oil getting into them. Oil changes are cheap, may as well just do it right away, just my 2 cents. Good luck and good job on the repairs.

Tom
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Old Jul 5, 2015 | 10:04 AM
  #2080  
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I changed it out during the repair also. I had taken the oil pan off to get a broken guide piece out of the oil pickup tube. As careful as I was I'm sure a small amount of dirt might have fallen onto the top of the heads when taking the valve covers off. Any pieces I saw I removed before putting it back together. I put a new oil filter on it and filled it with new oil. I guess by now any dirt that did get in was already filtered out the first time I ran it. I think I'll just change the oil again the next chance I get just to be sure.
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