The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound
#2041
Senior Member
The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound
I just read through the first 15 pages of this post. Great stuff.
My engine lacks some power and is making the "Diesel" noises. I took it to a local mechanic and they suggested "Replace the engine". WHAT??? ($8,500).
That just didn't seem right and I'm glad to read this thread.
I'm into Motorcycle builds and am comfortable rebuilding bikes from the ground up. But I'm "deer in headlights" when it comes to working on this big beast. While I'm comfortable with a wrench, I have no idea what I'm getting into on the solutions I'm finding here.
I just called the local Ford Dealership to get my truck in for a second opinion. You've given me a ton of "discussion points" to start with. The conversation went very well and the service manager was acknowledging everything I was describing and asking to have them look at (Cam Phasers, Timing Chain Slap, and Significant Engine Noise). I am aware that I have a broken manifold bolt too, which he said they'd look at.
Dealerships scare the hell out of me (regarding their wrench rates). But I'm hoping I can get my truck (153K Miles) back to good and running for another 100K. I use it to pull an enclosed trailer (containing motorcycles) and notices the recent lack of power and poor mileage (around 10mpg pulling the trailer and 14.6 normal highway). Just knew something was off a bit.
I'm hopeful the repair can be done and fix my truck. I have a personal budget of around $3000 to get it back to good. Beyond that, I have to consider trying it myself or abandoning the vehicle.
Thanks for all the input and effort on this thread!
Jim
My engine lacks some power and is making the "Diesel" noises. I took it to a local mechanic and they suggested "Replace the engine". WHAT??? ($8,500).
That just didn't seem right and I'm glad to read this thread.
I'm into Motorcycle builds and am comfortable rebuilding bikes from the ground up. But I'm "deer in headlights" when it comes to working on this big beast. While I'm comfortable with a wrench, I have no idea what I'm getting into on the solutions I'm finding here.
I just called the local Ford Dealership to get my truck in for a second opinion. You've given me a ton of "discussion points" to start with. The conversation went very well and the service manager was acknowledging everything I was describing and asking to have them look at (Cam Phasers, Timing Chain Slap, and Significant Engine Noise). I am aware that I have a broken manifold bolt too, which he said they'd look at.
Dealerships scare the hell out of me (regarding their wrench rates). But I'm hoping I can get my truck (153K Miles) back to good and running for another 100K. I use it to pull an enclosed trailer (containing motorcycles) and notices the recent lack of power and poor mileage (around 10mpg pulling the trailer and 14.6 normal highway). Just knew something was off a bit.
I'm hopeful the repair can be done and fix my truck. I have a personal budget of around $3000 to get it back to good. Beyond that, I have to consider trying it myself or abandoning the vehicle.
Thanks for all the input and effort on this thread!
Jim
#2042
The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound
I ran into a issue reassembling my truck. I removed the cams to check for wear, seen some but decided to put it back together and run it til it blows I guess. When I got it all back together am cranked it, it sounds like it's out of time. I pulled it back apart, crank keyway at 12, 1 time the l is pointing up on both phasers, next revolution the r is on both. any suggestions?
#2043
UPDATE:
Just got my truck back from the local Ford dealership after lengthy discussions with them and their diagnosis. The only repair they suggest is the RH VCT Solenoid (after they have a fault code on it). They understood the "noise", but stated that the $375 repair to replace the VCT Solenoid will fix oil pressure issue and resolve my problems.
So, going from "You need a new engine" to "Just replace the VCT Solenoid" seems pretty extreme solutions.
My honest opinion is that the Ford Dealership understood my concerns and problem. I hate dealerships in general, but I have to confess that this experience was a pleasant one. They did listen to me and I had no less than 3 phone conversations with them yesterday (they called me) in order to fully understand what my concerns were and how they suggested resolving them. (I'll give them High Marks on the customer service I received).
So, I'm not sure of my direction. I just priced out the parts on Rock Auto and I'm coming in around $500 to get the VCT Solenoids (x2), Cam Phasers (x2), Timing Chain Set, and Front Crank Seal. Not bad, but is it all needed?
Please let me know your opinions on what I should do. If it's really just the VCT Solenoids and I have the truck apart, why not just replace it all and be assured? 156,000 miles on the truck. Investing $500-$600 and a long weekend sounds like that direction makes sense.
Thanks!
#2044
Senior Member
The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound
Warden888, since you have an opinion from a mechanic that replacing the vct's will do the trick, I kinda suggest starting there. I say kinda, because I don't know what year your truck is. On the early one's (04,05, and maybe 06 I don't remember), you can replace the vct's without taking the valve cover off and it's pretty easy.
On the later models, you have to take the valve covers off to access the vct's. In my experience, the hardest part of the entire job is getting the passenger valve cover off.
Basically, if you have an early model, I say start with vct's. Even if you have to go back and replace the entire timing system, you haven't wasted any money or too much time. If you have a later model, it may be worth the peace of mind to do it all at once.
On the later models, you have to take the valve covers off to access the vct's. In my experience, the hardest part of the entire job is getting the passenger valve cover off.
Basically, if you have an early model, I say start with vct's. Even if you have to go back and replace the entire timing system, you haven't wasted any money or too much time. If you have a later model, it may be worth the peace of mind to do it all at once.
The following users liked this post:
Warden888 (06-17-2015)
#2045
Warden888, since you have an opinion from a mechanic that replacing the vct's will do the trick, I kinda suggest starting there. I say kinda, because I don't know what year your truck is. On the early one's (04,05, and maybe 06 I don't remember), you can replace the vct's without taking the valve cover off and it's pretty easy.
On the later models, you have to take the valve covers off to access the vct's. In my experience, the hardest part of the entire job is getting the passenger valve cover off.
Basically, if you have an early model, I say start with vct's. Even if you have to go back and replace the entire timing system, you haven't wasted any money or too much time. If you have a later model, it may be worth the peace of mind to do it all at once.
On the later models, you have to take the valve covers off to access the vct's. In my experience, the hardest part of the entire job is getting the passenger valve cover off.
Basically, if you have an early model, I say start with vct's. Even if you have to go back and replace the entire timing system, you haven't wasted any money or too much time. If you have a later model, it may be worth the peace of mind to do it all at once.
Thank you for the reply. Yes, I have an '04. If I don't have to remove the valve covers to do the VCT, then yes I agree totally. I will start there and see what comes of it. If I need to go further I can purchase the remaining parts.
One more point, on Rock Auto they do not list them L or R. Are they the same either side (just order two)?
Great forum. Thank you!
#2046
The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound
Thank you for the reply. Yes, I have an '04. If I don't have to remove the valve covers to do the VCT, then yes I agree totally. I will start there and see what comes of it. If I need to go further I can purchase the remaining parts.
One more point, on Rock Auto they do not list them L or R. Are they the same either side (just order two)?
Great forum. Thank you!
One more point, on Rock Auto they do not list them L or R. Are they the same either side (just order two)?
Great forum. Thank you!
Another note: don't buy the aftermarket solenoid or cam phasers. Always get genuine Ford parts for these components. Lots of people have had quick failures with the Dorman and other cheap aftermarket parts.
Last edited by VTX1800N1; 06-17-2015 at 06:21 PM.
#2048
Senior Member
If you buy the torx screwdriver from someplace like autozone like i did, you may have to shave the end of the handle down that is toward the blade part of the driver. Mine was a little wide and would not allow the driver to be completely straight as I was taking the torx bolt out. I shaved the handle a little and it lined up right. Good luck.
Tom
Tom
The following users liked this post:
Warden888 (06-19-2015)
#2050
I have torx, but thanks for the heads-up and reference to the size. I didn't order the seals. Would you have part #'s? I'll just go to the dealership otherwise and pay them for the seals (I like the dealership I have access to... don't mind supporting them when I can, now).
As for the off-brand, I had already ordered the Dorman brand (not knowing any better). I'll roll the dice with them, but it's good to know for future (such as cam phasers and timing kits.).
One more time, I thank you folks.
As for the off-brand, I had already ordered the Dorman brand (not knowing any better). I'll roll the dice with them, but it's good to know for future (such as cam phasers and timing kits.).
One more time, I thank you folks.