The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound
Hello All,
thanks for the write up.. allot of good info here.
i have a 04 with 144k on the clock, cant complain since the truck never really cost me a dime ( other then general maint. )
its had the "normal" tick for about 60k miles. sounded NOTHING like the vids on page 19 , the internal mechanic had a much smaller hammer.
How mine came about...
about a yr and a half ago , coming to a stop from hwy, the truck shuttered and felt like it was going to stall. shifted to neutral gave it the quick rev, all was fine, happend a few times that day and stalled twice, was a very hot day if i remember correctly.
dtc where cps ( bank 1 and 2 ) i figured no way are both bad at the same time, so figured the rattling etc caused something to go amuck. cleared the codes , figuring they would come back, NOPE
I started noticing while at hwy speed, a shutter / shake under light acceleration, ( FIX: I turned OD off ), NO CODES.. i figured this was a timing issue, that the ecu was trying to adjust. so i just kept it in the accel state so it speak.
Well Murphys Law happened on Friday the 13th , a black cat crossed my path as i was going under a ladder.. LOL
Coming off an exit ramp , the shutter, rattling , etc happened, truck stalled, Fired right back up , SES light on. DID NOT RUN NORMAL like previously, since i was close to home, less then 4 blocks, limped home, and parked it.
after it cooled down, started fine , ran like a champ, no abnormal noise, etc ( i forget to get the codes at this point ) as soon as it reached temp, the knocking, rattles, stalls, little to no power, all this started. almost like the engine is about to explode
Codes: P0011, P0021, P0345
let it cool down, starts right up , sounds normal again.
took it to the car wash and pressure washed the engine so i don't have a ton of winter salt and dirt to worry about.
So im guessing it finally let loose, and when it gets to temp and oil pressure drops bad seals im guessing , everything goes wrong.
Gonna rip it apart tomorrow, and start ordering parts. I'm guessing phasers , chain , guides, etc, oh and spark plugs .. this worries me more then the timing stuff.. as i got the truck in 04 so i know they have NEVER been changed ( if it aint broke... don't fix it ) but this would be the best time to change them out. hopefully none break.
im sure ill take plenty of pictures as I go, for future reference and documentation
the other thing that kind of worries me is , I read most of the posts on this thread dating back years and some still had problems after all the work was done, and some didnt.. almost seems like a crap shoot.
thanks for the write up.. allot of good info here.
i have a 04 with 144k on the clock, cant complain since the truck never really cost me a dime ( other then general maint. )
its had the "normal" tick for about 60k miles. sounded NOTHING like the vids on page 19 , the internal mechanic had a much smaller hammer.
How mine came about...
about a yr and a half ago , coming to a stop from hwy, the truck shuttered and felt like it was going to stall. shifted to neutral gave it the quick rev, all was fine, happend a few times that day and stalled twice, was a very hot day if i remember correctly.
dtc where cps ( bank 1 and 2 ) i figured no way are both bad at the same time, so figured the rattling etc caused something to go amuck. cleared the codes , figuring they would come back, NOPE
I started noticing while at hwy speed, a shutter / shake under light acceleration, ( FIX: I turned OD off ), NO CODES.. i figured this was a timing issue, that the ecu was trying to adjust. so i just kept it in the accel state so it speak.
Well Murphys Law happened on Friday the 13th , a black cat crossed my path as i was going under a ladder.. LOL
Coming off an exit ramp , the shutter, rattling , etc happened, truck stalled, Fired right back up , SES light on. DID NOT RUN NORMAL like previously, since i was close to home, less then 4 blocks, limped home, and parked it.
after it cooled down, started fine , ran like a champ, no abnormal noise, etc ( i forget to get the codes at this point ) as soon as it reached temp, the knocking, rattles, stalls, little to no power, all this started. almost like the engine is about to explode
Codes: P0011, P0021, P0345
let it cool down, starts right up , sounds normal again.
took it to the car wash and pressure washed the engine so i don't have a ton of winter salt and dirt to worry about.
So im guessing it finally let loose, and when it gets to temp and oil pressure drops bad seals im guessing , everything goes wrong.
Gonna rip it apart tomorrow, and start ordering parts. I'm guessing phasers , chain , guides, etc, oh and spark plugs .. this worries me more then the timing stuff.. as i got the truck in 04 so i know they have NEVER been changed ( if it aint broke... don't fix it ) but this would be the best time to change them out. hopefully none break.
im sure ill take plenty of pictures as I go, for future reference and documentation
the other thing that kind of worries me is , I read most of the posts on this thread dating back years and some still had problems after all the work was done, and some didnt.. almost seems like a crap shoot.
Aboot those plugs ... the current Ford-specified interval is 60K. The thing is, leaving them in that long risks more than just difficult extraction.
Due to the fact that by now yer gaps will have grown far too large, you've likely been running with low-grade misfires (with aggregate counts low enough not to trigger a CEL), which means you've been dumping raw fuel downstream for all of that time. This washes yer cylinder walls of lubricant, dumps fuel into the crankcase and dilutes the oil, and can degrade O2's and melt the cat substrates. In other words, despite appearances, it is indeed 'broke'.
Hence - Plan on a front O2 change ( they're due anyway), and get yer cats checked for health (a good exhaust shop can do this).
Sorry for the influx of question y'all but, what kind of luck are y'all having with Dorman Phasers? Seems the only things out are Standard Motor Products, Dorman, or Motorcraft. The Dorman ones have mixed reviews on Amazon (I can use prime shipping as opposed to rockauto that wouldn't get me my parts until the 20th). The reviews range from them lasting forever to them lasting 150 miles. They've got 3 stars out of 32 reviews.
I'm also changing my plugs, again. They've got about 20K on them and we pulled them to see how they look and they're looking pretty funky. They almost look rusted.
I'm also changing my plugs, again. They've got about 20K on them and we pulled them to see how they look and they're looking pretty funky. They almost look rusted.
Sorry for the influx of question y'all but, what kind of luck are y'all having with Dorman Phasers? Seems the only things out are Standard Motor Products, Dorman, or Motorcraft. The Dorman ones have mixed reviews on Amazon (I can use prime shipping as opposed to rockauto that wouldn't get me my parts until the 20th). The reviews range from them lasting forever to them lasting 150 miles. They've got 3 stars out of 32 reviews.
I'm also changing my plugs, again. They've got about 20K on them and we pulled them to see how they look and they're looking pretty funky. They almost look rusted.
I'm also changing my plugs, again. They've got about 20K on them and we pulled them to see how they look and they're looking pretty funky. They almost look rusted.
The simple mantra is Dorman is for Door handles, lol.
Here's a Dorman phaser after aboot a month's usage:
IMHO - stick with Motorcraft timing set components - the current revisions have been updated.
Plugs - do you do lot of short trips? If so you need to get out on the highway and do some regular 30 mile plus runs. And use Techron regularly (@ every oil change is a good metric).
MGD
Last edited by MGD; Mar 15, 2015 at 10:11 AM.
Originally Posted by MGD
Simply put - avoid Dorma phasers, or any other timing set component. This also applies to Dorman FPDMs.
The simple mantra is Dorman is for Door handles, lol.
Here's a Dorman phaser after aboot a month's usage:
http://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f150forum.com-vbulletin/480x640/80-dorman_phaer_fail_5222cd86d43b09ddca6584fac70fad2c 1065b876.jpg
IMHO - stick with Motorcraft timing set components - the current revisions have been updated.
Plugs - do you do lot of short trips? If so you need to get out on the highway and do some regular 30 mile plus runs. And use Techron regularly (@ every oil change is a good metric).
MGD
The simple mantra is Dorman is for Door handles, lol.
Here's a Dorman phaser after aboot a month's usage:
http://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f150forum.com-vbulletin/480x640/80-dorman_phaer_fail_5222cd86d43b09ddca6584fac70fad2c 1065b876.jpg
IMHO - stick with Motorcraft timing set components - the current revisions have been updated.
Plugs - do you do lot of short trips? If so you need to get out on the highway and do some regular 30 mile plus runs. And use Techron regularly (@ every oil change is a good metric).
MGD
Plugs- I do primarily short trips because most places I go are right by my apartment. Plug on the left is from the passenger front, plug on the right is passenger side 3rd cylinder (three back from the front) the element appears rusted. These plugs have less than 20K miles on them.
Ah, definitely steering clear then.
Plugs- I do primarily short trips because most places I go are right by my apartment. Plug on the left is from the passenger front, plug on the right is passenger side 3rd cylinder (three back from the front) the element appears rusted. These plugs have less than 20K miles on them.
Plugs- I do primarily short trips because most places I go are right by my apartment. Plug on the left is from the passenger front, plug on the right is passenger side 3rd cylinder (three back from the front) the element appears rusted. These plugs have less than 20K miles on them.

MGD
Originally Posted by MGD
Hmmm ... looking at the rust on the threads on the left plug, I'm guessing it was a tad loose (?), or you had some moisture in that plug well.
MGD
MGD
What about the Cloyes timing set? (Chains, guides, tensioners, crank sprocket) it's $130. I can get all the front timing components of Motorcraft (minus VCT solenoids which will also be replaced) for $810 (chains, guides, tensioners, crank sprocket, and phasers)
Last edited by tareed94; Mar 15, 2015 at 11:17 AM.
I got OEM phasers, timing kit and all the lash adjusters with followers for about $800. All OEM parts off of ebay. Phasers and timing components were about 570 and the lash adjusters and followers about 200 or so. Go OEM, you will not regret it.
That one actually put up the most fight coming out, probably due to the rust. I'm leaning toward moisture because I took the truck wheeling one time, the only time I know of that its been. Didn't go through any deep water or anything super detrimental, but mud accumulated around my ignition coils. I cleaned it up the best I could without an air compressor or shop vac, but it may have seeped into the well. That one time was probably the last time it'll go wheeling because it's such a pain to clean the engine back up on a daily driver.
What about the Cloyes timing set? (Chains, guides, tensioners, crank sprocket) it's $130. I can get all the front timing components of Motorcraft (minus VCT solenoids which will also be replaced) for $810 (chains, guides, tensioners, crank sprocket, and phasers)
What about the Cloyes timing set? (Chains, guides, tensioners, crank sprocket) it's $130. I can get all the front timing components of Motorcraft (minus VCT solenoids which will also be replaced) for $810 (chains, guides, tensioners, crank sprocket, and phasers)
Originally Posted by vintageman
I got OEM phasers, timing kit and all the lash adjusters with followers for about $800. All OEM parts off of ebay. Phasers and timing components were about 570 and the lash adjusters and followers about 200 or so. Go OEM, you will not regret it.
After fighting mine for several months and 3 or 4 disassembles, finding out that my thrust bearing was cooked, damaging my rod and main bearings a little, my repair turned into a forged rotating assembly 
I suspect the crank was walking forward, closing the oil passage that feeds the phasers and making the noise more evident. Didn't help that the tensioner seals were blown either.

I suspect the crank was walking forward, closing the oil passage that feeds the phasers and making the noise more evident. Didn't help that the tensioner seals were blown either.









