The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound
Hello all. Awesome write up. Thanks to 05f150 for directing me to this. I just went to rock auto to order all my parts so i could tackle this next week and found all of the parts and numbers referenced but when i put in part # 917250 for the cam phasers it comes up "no parts found". Same if i put Cam phasers in the search box. Are these parts no longer available? Any suggestions? Thanks for all of your help.
Originally Posted by twahl
thanks for the updated part number. Im going to order everything in the morning. Are there any seals and other stuff i need to order or can i reuse the seals? Thanks again for all of your help.
Good morning,
I was reading through this thread this morning, and first wanted to say how helpful all the information was!
Last weekend I started getting a rough idle and check engine light on my 2005 F150, 5.4L.
I took it to my local mechanic and he pulled codes P0012 and P0021. He said I have clogged oil ports (don't remember the exact phrase he used, just a clog somewhere), and that I have sludge due to lack of timely oil changes (I change my oil every 5K but have gone as far as 7K a few times). He added one of the JB oil cleaners, which he says he seen results from on other F150's that he's had this problem on, and did an oil change.
His recommendation, if the treatment doesn't work after 1-2 cycles, is a new engine.
Of course, the fix recommended in this thread seems a little more palatable than a new engine at $4000+ so I was hoping for some feedback here. . This seems like something I could pull off in my spare time. My truck is my second vehicle so I can park it for a while and take my time doing the repair.
I'm by no means a mechanic but I have been working on my cars since I was a teenager. I only really do basic replacement/maintenance stuff such as brakes, starters, alternators, radiators, belts, hoses, etc. I did help someone drop a transmission to replace a flywheel, and also helped out with removing and replacing cylinder heads though it's been at least 20 years since I did anything that major.
Thanks in advance for any advice!
I was reading through this thread this morning, and first wanted to say how helpful all the information was!
Last weekend I started getting a rough idle and check engine light on my 2005 F150, 5.4L.
I took it to my local mechanic and he pulled codes P0012 and P0021. He said I have clogged oil ports (don't remember the exact phrase he used, just a clog somewhere), and that I have sludge due to lack of timely oil changes (I change my oil every 5K but have gone as far as 7K a few times). He added one of the JB oil cleaners, which he says he seen results from on other F150's that he's had this problem on, and did an oil change.
His recommendation, if the treatment doesn't work after 1-2 cycles, is a new engine.
Of course, the fix recommended in this thread seems a little more palatable than a new engine at $4000+ so I was hoping for some feedback here. . This seems like something I could pull off in my spare time. My truck is my second vehicle so I can park it for a while and take my time doing the repair.
I'm by no means a mechanic but I have been working on my cars since I was a teenager. I only really do basic replacement/maintenance stuff such as brakes, starters, alternators, radiators, belts, hoses, etc. I did help someone drop a transmission to replace a flywheel, and also helped out with removing and replacing cylinder heads though it's been at least 20 years since I did anything that major.
Thanks in advance for any advice!
Originally Posted by SD_F150
Good morning,
I was reading through this thread this morning, and first wanted to say how helpful all the information was!
Last weekend I started getting a rough idle and check engine light on my 2005 F150, 5.4L.
I took it to my local mechanic and he pulled codes P0012 and P0021. He said I have clogged oil ports (don't remember the exact phrase he used, just a clog somewhere), and that I have sludge due to lack of timely oil changes (I change my oil every 5K but have gone as far as 7K a few times). He added one of the JB oil cleaners, which he says he seen results from on other F150's that he's had this problem on, and did an oil change.
His recommendation, if the treatment doesn't work after 1-2 cycles, is a new engine.
Of course, the fix recommended in this thread seems a little more palatable than a new engine at $4000+ so I was hoping for some feedback here. . This seems like something I could pull off in my spare time. My truck is my second vehicle so I can park it for a while and take my time doing the repair.
I'm by no means a mechanic but I have been working on my cars since I was a teenager. I only really do basic replacement/maintenance stuff such as brakes, starters, alternators, radiators, belts, hoses, etc. I did help someone drop a transmission to replace a flywheel, and also helped out with removing and replacing cylinder heads though it's been at least 20 years since I did anything that major.
Thanks in advance for any advice!
I was reading through this thread this morning, and first wanted to say how helpful all the information was!
Last weekend I started getting a rough idle and check engine light on my 2005 F150, 5.4L.
I took it to my local mechanic and he pulled codes P0012 and P0021. He said I have clogged oil ports (don't remember the exact phrase he used, just a clog somewhere), and that I have sludge due to lack of timely oil changes (I change my oil every 5K but have gone as far as 7K a few times). He added one of the JB oil cleaners, which he says he seen results from on other F150's that he's had this problem on, and did an oil change.
His recommendation, if the treatment doesn't work after 1-2 cycles, is a new engine.
Of course, the fix recommended in this thread seems a little more palatable than a new engine at $4000+ so I was hoping for some feedback here. . This seems like something I could pull off in my spare time. My truck is my second vehicle so I can park it for a while and take my time doing the repair.
I'm by no means a mechanic but I have been working on my cars since I was a teenager. I only really do basic replacement/maintenance stuff such as brakes, starters, alternators, radiators, belts, hoses, etc. I did help someone drop a transmission to replace a flywheel, and also helped out with removing and replacing cylinder heads though it's been at least 20 years since I did anything that major.
Thanks in advance for any advice!
What kind of sound is it making? Can you get a video and send it to me or post it on here? Mine was making a sound that sounded like it had a rod knock and it was actually the chain smacking the timing case and the relucter ring. But I recently read another thread on another forum talking about clogged screens. Apparently there is a screen somewhere in the tunnel from the pan to the heads...as well as another screen on each vct valve...what kind of oil did you use? One or all of those could be clogged. The vct ones can be fixed with new Vct solenoids. If it comes down to you takin it apart yourself, get one of the valve covers off (driver side is easier to remove) and see how much sludge is in the inside of the valve cover....I just recently did mine and I'll help what I can and s_varres (Steve) is a great person to text and ask questions as well. Where are you from?
On a brighter side today fellas, I decided that since the timing issue seemed to have been fixed that it was time to take my black beauty for a jog. Took her for a 45 mile run and she did great with the exception that the power steering is not fully fixed yet...still have to figure out that issue! But she's good to go for now!!
Thanks Steve for all of your help!!!
Ok, I took a video of what my engine sounds like. Just wanting to make sure that this is the sound of the cam phaser/timing chain issue before I order the parts and tear in to this thing.
Here is a description of the video:
I took this video when the engine was at normal operating temp. The noise starts to happen only when the engine is warmed up. If the truck sits and the engine becomes cool, then sound is not there.
I also took some video of underneath the truck because you can hear the sound there too.
When I rev the engine up to and past 1200 RPM the sound goes away. If you watch the video, at about the 2:30 mark when I have the engine set at about 1000-1100 RPM you can hear a distinct ticking/tapping noise, also at the 3:18 mark when I am holding the RPMs but this time I have the camera out side the truck.
The more and more I listen to the truck, the more and more it irritates me. It sounds like the engine is going to fall apart or become a diesel.
Here is a description of the video:
I took this video when the engine was at normal operating temp. The noise starts to happen only when the engine is warmed up. If the truck sits and the engine becomes cool, then sound is not there.
I also took some video of underneath the truck because you can hear the sound there too.
When I rev the engine up to and past 1200 RPM the sound goes away. If you watch the video, at about the 2:30 mark when I have the engine set at about 1000-1100 RPM you can hear a distinct ticking/tapping noise, also at the 3:18 mark when I am holding the RPMs but this time I have the camera out side the truck.
The more and more I listen to the truck, the more and more it irritates me. It sounds like the engine is going to fall apart or become a diesel.

Originally Posted by Relentless85
Ok, I took a video of what my engine sounds like. Just wanting to make sure that this is the sound of the cam phaser/timing chain issue before I order the parts and tear in to this thing.
Here is a description of the video:
I took this video when the engine was at normal operating temp. The noise starts to happen only when the engine is warmed up. If the truck sits and the engine becomes cool, then sound is not there.
I also took some video of underneath the truck because you can hear the sound there too.
When I rev the engine up to and past 1200 RPM the sound goes away. If you watch the video, at about the 2:30 mark when I have the engine set at about 1000-1100 RPM you can hear a distinct ticking/tapping noise, also at the 3:18 mark when I am holding the RPMs but this time I have the camera out side the truck.
The more and more I listen to the truck, the more and more it irritates me. It sounds like the engine is going to fall apart or become a diesel.
Video Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ud3OoIdBMnA
Here is a description of the video:
I took this video when the engine was at normal operating temp. The noise starts to happen only when the engine is warmed up. If the truck sits and the engine becomes cool, then sound is not there.
I also took some video of underneath the truck because you can hear the sound there too.
When I rev the engine up to and past 1200 RPM the sound goes away. If you watch the video, at about the 2:30 mark when I have the engine set at about 1000-1100 RPM you can hear a distinct ticking/tapping noise, also at the 3:18 mark when I am holding the RPMs but this time I have the camera out side the truck.
The more and more I listen to the truck, the more and more it irritates me. It sounds like the engine is going to fall apart or become a diesel.

Video Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ud3OoIdBMnA
This is mine before I took it apart...
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j3...o/7e179f2f.mp4my truck...
You may need to purchase a relucter ring as well..pm me if you need my number for assistance..
Sadly I did not have to listen past the point where you started the truck an moved the camera to the pass side...
This is mine before I took it apart...
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j3...o/7e179f2f.mp4my truck...
You may need to purchase a relucter ring as well..pm me if you need my number for assistance..
This is mine before I took it apart...
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j3...o/7e179f2f.mp4my truck...
You may need to purchase a relucter ring as well..pm me if you need my number for assistance..
Can I get the relucter ring from rock auto as well as all the other parts, or do I have to get it from somewhere else?
How much more work is involved with removing the bad relucter ring and installing the new one? I'm guessing its in the same vacinity of the cam phaser.


