They are both the same, the updated have an R on them and an L as well I believe. Been about 6 months since I did mine and I think that's what it was. Either way, they are both the same.

 

Ok well that makes me feel better about the phasers. I just hope that slack doesn't cause any kind of knocking noise. I figured that maybe the oil pressure will adjust the slack in the chain while running. Just hate to put everything back on and still have a knock.

 

I also just realized that I split the two black links on the cam phaser with the R because that has an arrow too. The other end just has the arrow. Does that matter?

 

On the phasers, the marking (arrow) should be in between the two black links. On the crank, the dot should be right on the black link. So if I understand you correctly, then you did it right.

 

The phaser has 2 arrows on it, one on each end. I didn't know if it mattered which one split the two links.

 

[MENTION=185959]vintageman[/MENTION] [MENTION=74056]2002VertGt[/MENTION] Hey vintageman and Vert, just wanted to update you on my truck. I decided not to pull the front engine cover off, trusting that I was right about the timing being correct. I had some cheap oil in it while I was working on it, so I did an oil change with Motorcraft 5W30 (intentionally running slightly heavier oil) and a MC filter.

Cranked it with the pedal floored 4 times, then started her up. She ran smooth for a second then, as I got onto the road, started running rough again. It wasn't the same as before but there was definitely something wrong, kinda felt like something was dragging, for lack of a better word. Engine light popped on after about 3 miles.

After driving for a few miles to see if whatever it was would work itself out (I know, I'd make a terrible mechanic) I took it home and parked it. Figuring it was time to admit I'm out of my depth, I called my local mechanic this morning to arrange to drop the truck off tonight. I also started looking on the local classifieds for a new truck.

As I drove to drop it off at the mechanic's shop, I decided to stop one more time at Autozone to pull the codes so I'd know what to expect when the mechanic finished his diagnostic. Figured I'd get another P0022 code like last time. But it popped a different code (don't remember the number) saying that the ignition coil on cylinder 7 was malfunctioning. Checked the coil, reseated the plug, and now she drives like a dream--literally the best it's driven since I bought it.

So thanks, I couldn't have done it without you and the other guys giving me all the help.

 

[MENTION=199261]kingbenjamin[/MENTION], good job, glad she's running again. Treat it right, do your maintenance and she will be a keeper.

 

yes it does. One side has to be on the R and the other side has to be on the L

 

that's great. Hopefully she will treat Ya good for years to come.

 

How did you guys get to the rear valve cover bolts closest to the firewall to torque them down?