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don't be afraid of removing the cams, just put the harmonic balancer at the tdc mark and verify that the cam lobes are in the correct position when you remove the valve covers. if not, then rotate your harmonic balancer 360 degrees and they should be correct then. Mark them with a paint marker or nail polish like I did on the cam caps and a non journal part of the cam. Do the marks on more than one cap that way you ensure putting it back on correctly. I took an old roll of black electrical tape and ran a wire hanger thru it to push in between the timing chain when I took the phaser off to make sure it would keep tension. Before you do that though, mark the chain and phaser so that they line back up when putting it back together. Loosen cam caps from center to outer ends gradually over about 5 or 6 sequences of loosening so that the cam comes off evenly. Nothing to it, just take your time. Let us know how it goes.
Good luck
Tom
Thanks Tom - I remember seeing a picture a guy had posted of his jimmy-rigged timing chain wedge to keep the tension on the chains - can't find it again tonight but he said it worked like a charm.
Do I understand correctly that I'll have to take the phaser off of the cam as well before I pull the cam?
Last edited by kingbenjamin; Dec 30, 2014 at 11:30 PM.
If you remove the chain, then, yes, I would pull the phaser back off. Makes it easier in my opinion to take the chain off and not have slack. I wouldn't want it to jump a tooth or anything like that. You will probably need a new phaser bolt if you do take it off though. I guess it would be possible to loosen all the cam caps and lift it up without removing the phaser but I really wouldn't try that, I would be concerned that the cam may warp by doing that. Also, sitting the followers back on the lash adjusters with the cam not completely removed would be a pain in the --- because they tend to just slip off the lash adjuster. There is a video that I saw on youtube that the guy just used a flat tip screwdriver and removed the followers then the lash adjusters with the cams still in place but it is really tight space in there.
Thanks Tom - I remember seeing a picture a guy had posted of his jimmy-rigged timing chain wedge to keep the tension on the chains - can't find it again tonight but he said it worked like a charm. Do I understand correctly that I'll have to take the phaser off of the cam as well before I pull the cam?
I made a wedge out of a piece of wood and it worked.
Thanks for all your help guys. I pulled the camshaft and inspected the lash adjusters on the left side. It looked like they were all bad, so I replaced them all.
Got the truck put back together today and the phaser/roller follower noise seems to be gone. But the truck is still idling really rough and is showing a P0022 code, saying the VCT position sensor is over retarded - camshaft timing is retarded.
I'm pretty sure that I didn't get the timing a tooth off, the phaser went back on looking just like it came off. I think I remember reading that the VCT solenoid can cause this issue if it's bad.
Thanks for all your help guys. I pulled the camshaft and inspected the lash adjusters on the left side. It looked like they were all bad, so I replaced them all.
Got the truck put back together today and the phaser/roller follower noise seems to be gone. But the truck is still idling really rough and is showing a P0022 code, saying the VCT position sensor is over retarded - camshaft timing is retarded.
I'm pretty sure that I didn't get the timing a tooth off, the phaser went back on looking just like it came off. I think I remember reading that the VCT solenoid can cause this issue if it's bad.
Any ideas?
I had the p0012, i pulled both solenoids an cleaned them an dipped them in oil. I reinstalled on the oposite bank to see if code followed so i would know if it was a solenoid. Same code came back because i didnt clear it. So cleared it with a pocket scanner an it has not come back. About 5000 miles an still running great. Idle will be rough if u put the reluctor ring in front of crank sprocket in backwards or not at all. Teeth point forward.
Reluctor ring isn't the problem, ran smooth for 100 miles after reinstalling it the first time, and I didn't pull the front engine cover off this time.
I think I found the what's causing the P0022 code - I swapped the VCT sensors and the code popped on bank 1 instead of bank 2, so I've replaced the VCT sensor.
As for the rough idle, it looks like I pulled the vacuum hose off its fitting at the back of the engine when I pulled the valve covers off (see pictures). I can't find a diagram showing where it attaches or how in the heck I'm supposed to get back there to reattach it.
This is the other end of the vacuum hose that runs from the brake booster
This end attaches somewhere to the back of the engine - how the heck do I get it back on?
Last edited by kingbenjamin; Jan 1, 2015 at 10:33 PM.