dmasinick

Thank you, that is helpful. I was lucky enough to find, on another thread in the forum, a recall instruction for the booster line from 2005 that showed how to access it from below. I never would have figured it out on my own.


The reason that I must remove it is because the metal booster pipe is preventing me from removing the cam cover for the cam phaser replacement.


I have successfully removed it, and it appears that I will be able to reattach when I reassemble.


Thanks for the picture and words of encouragement.


Regards, Dave

ttjkn5

Driving from spokane to colorado hunting this my truck noise became much worse. Pullked off in Boise to get gas and engine died. Started back up but noise is worse. Drives fine at 70 good gas mileage 16 to 17 on the trip. My mechanic said either replace engine or sell truck. It has the noise when starting up like chain slap and no oil on phasers. Cold for about 15 minutes idles fine then after warm it starts dieseling so have to shift into neurual at stop light to avoid stalling.

After reading your post I am ready to begin the complete job and will begin tearing apart next week while wife is out of town so I can use her car. The truck is a 2005 supercab 4x4 with 200k.

I have chliton and hayes manuals for this engine and your post along with some other online sources and while not a mechanic have rebuilt a few engines before so think I can handle it in a week of my time.

My original plan was for a close inspection of all parts before buying new ones, but I a rethinking this and maybe should order parts first. You used rockauto but others say only to use ford dealer parts, don't know what different costs are but you were satisfied with the rock auto parts.

vintageman

Use OEM, dorman parts have been known to go out prematurely, sometimes within a few weeks. When you do this job, use the first few pages of this thread as your guide and you will be good. I did mine over a period of a week, couple hours here, couple hours there, your back will thank you if you take your time. Not a hard job, just time consuming, take it slow and you will be good. I changed my lash adjusters and followers out while I was in there. Good luck
Tom

2002VertGt

By the way to anyone who has been reading this entire post. My truck has been finally fixed. It was a combination between mass airflow sensor and clogged catalytic converter's on top of the bent valves that it had before that made me change the motor. Good luck to the rest of you who still need to do the repairs.

VTX1800N1

Timing the 5.4 3V:

Ford 5.4L 3v Engine Timing Walkthrough:

ttjkn5

Got most things loose and off except for the power steering pump and suggestions. Going to get a puller for it tomorrow and see if I can get at the bolts. They seem to be on there fairly hard hope they are not frozen in place.


After I get everything opened up for inspection, then I'll proceed with the parts replacement. What about the oil pump, I see there is another make out there that produces about 30 percent more oil pressure at idle. Is this worth the extra wok. I think if the guides are broken and parts missing where I need to go into the pan I will replace the pump as well.


Couple of questions. When the rollers/lash adjuster are to be removed after setting up engine for timing and before any of the timing parts or phasers are removed. I only need to remove 3 on each side and that will hold the cam in position for the entire project. I plan to mark the position of the cam on the bearing prior to tanking anything off.

vintageman

The power steering pump is the part that took me the longest to get off. I tried for 2 hours with 2 different pulley pullers and never got the pulley to budge. I was able to get the bolts out of the pump by lying on the ground and using a 10mm open end wrench, took maybe 20 minutes or so, had to loosen the top bolts an pull the pump away from the block to allow for the bottom bolt to back out more. One of the hoses kept getting in the way. As far as the followers, I removed both of my cams so that I could replace all of them as well as the lash adjusters. This allowed me to look at the cam journals as well. Make sure that you mark the cam in a couple places so that you line if back up correctly. You definitely want to have the cam lobes and timing marks in the right position when you start taking these apart. Good luck.
Tom

2002VertGt

I used a 10mm weathering wrench. It takes a while as you can only turn the bolt a quarter turn or less. As the bolt comes out you have to move the pump down with the bolt unil it is out. It is a task, but I can get it off now within 20 minutes

ttjkn5

GGot some new tools and got the power steering pump off. After loosing the blots used a ratching 10mm wrench. Got everything else off except right valve cover. Stuck against ac lines in the back where they go through the firewall. Going to try and remove battery and see if I can get reseivor moved over to get valve cover to slide down and out. not too big a deal if I need to remove ac lines just need to fill up again.

Loose chain on lower side on the drivers side will inspect more after getting off other valve cover.

vintageman

I had to remove the AC lines, if you have to as well, ensure that you wrap a towel or something around the AC connections so that the green crap that sprays out doesn't get all over everything. Good luck.
Tom