Its not a hard job, just time consuming getting to all the bolts to take it apart. I took the valve covers off, set the timing marks on the harmonic balancer, made sure that my cam lobes were right, if not, then turn harmonic balancer another 360 degrees, check cam lobes again, they should be right. Once cam lobes are right, mark the cam lobes with a paint marker on cam and cam caps as well as on the phaser for verification during reassembly. Take off power steering pump and set to the side, remove the harmonic balancer. Take off front cover. Hard part is done now. Have a set of vice grips handy to ensure that you can turn the cam slightly when lining up the phasers (make sure that all colored links are lined up correctly or it will not run right).
If you are removing the cams (I did) to check the followers and lash adjusters, the paint marks on the cam help. The cam caps may be marked with a letter or number, they go back into those original position. If they are not marked, chances are that particular head has been changed before, keep the caps in the correct order for reassembly. I changed all of my followers and lash adjusters (I found 13 bad lash adjusters that was causing a lot of noise). Look at the first couple pages of "The Final Guide ..." thread on this forum for chain component disassembly and reassembly and it will help. There should be a couple pic in one of my albums here as far as the cam lobe positions.
Good luck, take your time. I did this job a few months ago and it has run great since, looks up some of my posts as I put a few things there that are not listed here that you need to do concerning the vct solenoids.
Tom

 

I have the parts coming. My problem is what else could be wrong. Considering they had this job done before and it was done wrong. What are the odds of a valve being bent. The keyway on the phaser is moving about 4-5 teeth. The bolt wasn't tight on the phaser. And the tensioners were installed wrong- the left on the right, the right on the left. I would just go back together with new parts but I am looking at this job now wondering what damage was actually done to it when it was done the last time- incorrectly. I am thinking it didn't move the full 90 degrees. About half way...but I am not sure.

 

The bent valve may be an indication that the piston hit the valve. You may need to check that piston out. If the phaser was loose, then either the bolt was reused (it should be replaced when the phaser is), or it simply wasn't torqued correctly. Considering the previous mechanic put parts on the wrong sides, I'd say either is a possibility. Once the phaser is loose, the guide pin can be worn out, or the guide hole on the cam shaft can be. The only ways I know to check are to either check the cam with a new phaser, or measure the guide hole with a known good cam.
Considering everything wrong with this motor, I would check the cam journals first. If they are scored, then (unfortunately) the entire head should be replaced. That would also give you opportunity to make sure the pistons are in good shape. This is kind of a sticky sitiuation.

 

That's the thing. Not sure if there is a bent valve. I didn't have a problem doing the job until I saw the job that was done before on it. I don't want to stick this money in this truck and than have to pull it back out. The guy doesn't have that money. Just doing the original plan on it was pushing it for him. But til I do the spark plug nightmare on top of this to see...he is done with it now. He is ready to give me the title because he doesn't have the money for a new engine and he isn't wasting what he has now to just put these parts on that are coming..the chain etc that we had quoted him on, and it still have issues. I am jsut trying to be honest with the guy. I told him something was wrong with the engine when he got it. And now looking at it all put back together wrong before has me leary on what other problems there could be. Do I do a new engine...do I just put on the chain, etc and see...but he doesn't want to gamble.

 

Just out of curiosity, why would you think it has a bent valve? I thought you were saying that it definitely had one. To be honest though, unless the phaser that is loose was able to actually spin, the valves themselves are probably fine. The lash adjusters, however, can get stuck and cause noises. The phasers can sound terrible when they're faulty too.

 

Heres my truck when i had a broke chain tensioner, and bad phaser on one side. Not noticeably bad but makes noise for sure! Could be sounding like this, i thought it was valves as well but it wasnt and i got almost 207k on mine.


And heres after new chains,tensioners,guides,sprocket, and phasers

 

This is great, thanks for taking the time.
I am new to the forum, and I have a "new to me" truck. I am in the process of changing out cam phasers on a 2006 F150 with the 5.4. I have hit a snag, in that the steel tube that connects the brake booster to the intake manifold disappears behind the valve cover, and I cannot get a view from top or bottom of how it connects to the manifold. This preventing me from removing the valve cover. I hope to avoid removing the intake as part of this repair. Any advice for accessing this connection or a reference drawing would be a great help.

Regards, Dave

 

For anyone looking for genuine Ford parts, $508: Ford 5.4L 3V Camshaft Drive Phaser Repair Kit - Phaser Sprockets, Tensioners, Guides, Chains Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E2UMX40..._LhaAub1YJR9GS

Pair that with a valve cover gasket set, $53.63: Fel-Pro VS50664R Valve Cover Gasket Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001C98GR2..._XiaAub1MA4T66

The only other thing I would add would be a pair of VCT solenoid valve body gaskets.

 

it is bolted onto the back of the head...it goes down to the lower right (drivers side) bottom of the intake....why are you removing it?

 

It is also held on with a hose clamp....all I can say is good luck...it's a bassteerd and you have to have tiny hands. Ford removes the cab for reasons like this