Brewskey

These are the pieces I found in the pick up tube except the quarter used for size reference lol




Pick up tube covered in metal shrapnel after I picked out all the plastic pieces from the guides


Well after years of dealing with this stupid engine it finally went on me!!

I was coming home from camping pulling my trailer and I got a low oil pressure warning and the idiot gauge was at 0 psi. knowing it only takes 7 psi to read normal and the noise the engine was making I knew it was serious. I had the truck towed home and found metal filings in the oil and in the filter so I just took out the engine and the first thing I did was open the oil pan If you read one of my last posts I had said that I believe that a lot of our problem with the cam phaser noise is lack of oil pressure. I was right, when I opened up the oil pan the pick up tube was plugged up with the plastic pieces from the broken guides!!!! Theses phasers need 25 psi to operate and with the pick up tube completely plugged there is know way that was happening, I wish I went with my gut feeling and had looked in there a couple of years ago when I originally did the work of replacing everything, now I am replacing an engine which probably could have been saved!!!!!!!

00tec

Great. Now I cant get the crank far enough back to get the rear thrust washers in. Something in the tranny appears to be stopping me.

1specman

my parts come in tommorrow for replacing my timing chain, tensioner, guides, phasers,... already started dissassembly.

just wondering if anyone on this site in or around the baton rouge louisiana area did this job before. looking for possible help should i need. ace in the hole kinda guy.

chris

vintageman

Chris, I just finished this job with all OEM phaser and timing parts as well as the lash adjusters and followers. I posted a "what I learned" on the link below:
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/5-4-pro...212840/index4/


The job is not that hard, just really time consuming, I took a week off from work to take it slow, end result is my truck is now running and sounding great. I keep an eye on this site, so you can pm me if you run into issues or have questions. Things to plan for that will help are:
- have a short 10mm wrench for the power steering pump removal
- get a piece of chain, links not too thick, about a foot long so that can help with taking the fan blade off(read my method on the link above for the use of the chain)
- 8mm deep well 1/4 inch socket for the back bolt on the valve covers, 2 inch long 1/4 extension as well
- 22mm deep well socket for a couple bolts on the front timing cover
- blue locktite for the timing component bolts
- good vice grips to help with the cam positioning in needed
- long blade size 27 torx or be prepared to trim the handle down so that it will reach the VCT solenoid bolts without hitting the solenoid itself
- I sprayed the vct solenoids with throttle body cleaner and dipped them in oil prior to installing them the 2nd time
- check all pulleys when they are removed for possible bad bearings that create noise
- remove the wheel well cover to access VC bolts on right side
- probably the most important thing is to follow the instructions at the beginning of this thread, they are invaluable.


Good luck and let us know how it goes.
Tom

1specman

thanks tom. i'll keep you post and pm if needed.

i have a little experience with some of the suggestions you noted. i recently pulled my motor and replaced with 5.4 from 06 expedition, and wouldn't you know the darn thing did exactly what the previous motor did. anyway i'm gonna give it a shot. been reading all i can on subject. sure wish i had replaced all these things when motor was out. time will tell.

chris

1specman

doing timing chain job. need to get phasers and sprockets in right position. just before i go any further, need to verify normal engine rotation run direction. i believe its clock wise as if looking at engine from front.

tiller83

Brewskey:

Did you try running the engine after cleaning the pickup tube. After some cleaning the engine may still have some miles left in it. Worth $35 for oil and filter.
Unless you have a warranty.
Or lots of money.

I did a similar repair on a budies 6.0 vortec. Was knocking, bad !!
Pan was coated in metal and aluminum shavings. Low oil pressure.
Replaced the o-ring seal for the pickup tube.
That was in July and it's still running fine. He had driven it for months with it clanking.

Good luck either way

5.4 Triton Chrome

Thank you for the detailed instructions w/visuals! That makes it much easier!

Most of the research I've done seems to emphasize ONLY using GENUINE FORD PARTS, because any other brand breaks down and you end up replacing them again anyway?

The part# for the Phasers lists 3 options w/RockAuto:

- DORMAN(#917250)-$114.89- this brand is specifically named as one that is returned via warranty for quality issues.

- STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS/TECHSMART(#S21001)-$134.79- states this techsmart phaser solves the problem of high failure rate with the OE seals?

- ENGINETECH(#SP8422)-$193.79- can't tell if price includes LH and RH Phaser, but picture looks used?

My truck feels and sounds like it's going to blow up, but I'm told driving on it while I'm waiting to fix it won't hurt. It will just aggravate me with the noise and lack of power?

Thank you for your very informative posts, I'm just paranoid about fixing the right parts.

I appreciate any advice!

Mark R

I have an '06 fx 4 with 5.4 and the symptoms are: Noise on cold start up that goes away quickly. But then when the engine is full hot all heck breaks loose. With the windows down cruising in the neighborhood at slow speeds and very little throttle she rattles and knocks like crazy. I can replicate the noise in the driveway by holding the throttle at minimal opening but when you mash it either in gear on road or in neutral the noise goes away. I do notice also a surge up and down as if timing is being altered back and forth while driving in traffic say between 30 and 50. My plan is to do the fix of all the parts related to chain and tensioners etc. recommended by SVares. Anymore input will be greatly appreciated. BTW my truck has 167K miles but I have had it since 135K.
Thanks

VTX1800N1

Check engine light? Trouble codes? Inspect the oil screens on the VCT solenoids carefully.