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2004 - 2008 Ford F150 General discussion on the 2004 - 2008 Ford F150 truck.

The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound

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Old Aug 4, 2014 | 04:49 PM
  #1571  
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ok, guy on one of the other forums said he used metal tensioners from a 99 and the bolted right up and work fine. How about that, metal 99 not plastik.
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Old Aug 4, 2014 | 05:47 PM
  #1572  
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Originally Posted by HHF150
Hey guys...just wanted to post on this thread my final results. Truck is so far so good 5 days from getting back. Alternator went out. Made dealership replace for free. Also had to get driver side cat converter taken care of (separate from this cost). Between the cam phasers, timing chain, tensioners, etc. and 2 cop and plugs they said threw a code....bill was $4,216.33. Pics attached. Looking for some perspective of folks that paid a stealership to do. Also, potentially what to expect if you decide to get this kind of work done there. Probably on the high side but didn't have much of a choice (couldn't do myself and didn't know of a reputable mechanic I could trust for this job). Either way, just hope the trucks stays running good for a couple more years. Again..05 Lariat..162k miles before repair. Major Work Cop & Plug
10% discount from full retail is steep, they really should have done better on that. Labor rate may by ok given that this is a big job.
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Old Aug 4, 2014 | 09:44 PM
  #1573  
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Originally Posted by DeadCode
ok, guy on one of the other forums said he used metal tensioners from a 99 and the bolted right up and work fine. How about that, metal 99 not plastik.
I dont understand the benefit. Its the seals that are giving out, not the plastic parts on the tensioner.
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Old Aug 6, 2014 | 08:40 PM
  #1574  
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Completed this job a couple days ago, started up and is running rough, getting codes P0340, P0344, P0345, P0349 and P2196. I'm thinking the timing is off slightly. If i give it some gas it clunks but runs up fine and smooths out a bit, then comes back down to idle and almost dies. Stalled out a couple times on me. Any advice? I already know I'm going to have to rip it apart again, so tomorrow I will be tearing it down.
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Old Aug 6, 2014 | 09:27 PM
  #1575  
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Originally Posted by Rugger72
Completed this job a couple days ago, started up and is running rough, getting codes P0340, P0344, P0345, P0349 and P2196. I'm thinking the timing is off slightly. If i give it some gas it clunks but runs up fine and smooths out a bit, then comes back down to idle and almost dies. Stalled out a couple times on me. Any advice? I already know I'm going to have to rip it apart again, so tomorrow I will be tearing it down.
Have you double checked all your wiring? That 02 sensor code (p2196) is throwing me off. Unless you had that code before the repair...
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Old Aug 6, 2014 | 11:45 PM
  #1576  
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Originally Posted by lewissa81
Have you double checked all your wiring? That 02 sensor code (p2196) is throwing me off. Unless you had that code before the repair...
I havent gotten a good look at all of the harnesses yet, will be sure to look tomorrow. I dont think I had any codes before the job. I can clear all of them and see what comes back. Would a bad CoP cause p2196 to come in?
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Old Aug 7, 2014 | 07:59 AM
  #1577  
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Originally Posted by Rugger72

I havent gotten a good look at all of the harnesses yet, will be sure to look tomorrow. I dont think I had any codes before the job. I can clear all of them and see what comes back. Would a bad CoP cause p2196 to come in?
No, I don't think so. An unplugged O2 sensor would though.
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Old Aug 7, 2014 | 11:37 AM
  #1578  
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Originally Posted by lewissa81
No, I don't think so. An unplugged O2 sensor would though.
Well, it appears as though everything is plugged in. The clip for the lh CPS broke off but it is staying on pretty well. I cleared all codes, started it up and let it idle for a few minutes. All codes came back except p2196.

Last edited by Rugger72; Aug 7, 2014 at 11:40 AM.
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Old Aug 7, 2014 | 12:37 PM
  #1579  
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IonSoul, not sure how roomy the 2008 is, but I had enough room in a 1999 to weld nuts onto several broken studs and extract them from the block when I recently installed headers. It was much quicker than having to remove the engine. I would expect a 2004+ to be just as easy. Although it is labor intensive either way so if they are only charging $1000 that doesn't sound horrible. I would need $500 just to do the weld extraction so there isn't really a "cheap" fix unless you do all the labor.

Rugger72, sounds like your timing is off. Just one tooth is all it takes.
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Old Aug 7, 2014 | 01:00 PM
  #1580  
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[QUOTE=Micahdogg;

Rugger72, sounds like your timing is off. Just one tooth is all it takes.[/QUOTE]

Thanks, I was thinking the same. Just wanted a second opinion. Already in the process of tearing it down. Is it wrong that I kind of like doing this stuff? I'm an engineer so I guess it kind of comes second nature to me.
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