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Changing out the cam phasers and timing change components...can a mechanic mess anything up regarding injectors/catalytic converter? Just want to make sure that when doing this kind of work...those components are not disrupted.
The injectors are up against the valve covers so he could have jostled those around. The harnesses run over the valve covers so he may have not gotten a electrical plug back in place securely. I'm not sure if the harness going to the 02 sensors is in that harness also. I don't think there is anything he could have done to the catalytic converters.
Yes, I replaced everything while I was in there even though the only thing I found wrong was the gaskets blown out on the tensioners. Nice and quiet for a week and then it started back up *#%*!!!. Half tempted to loosen the valve covers and pull the front cover to just look at replacing the tensioners again but leaning more to just selling the truck. Who wants a vehicle that expensive that makes you cringe every time you drive it. Had a Suburban Z71 for years and not a single issue. I've had two of these Screw's with the rattle, sick of it.
Last edited by terryh80; 08-02-2014 at 11:08 AM.
Reason: should have replied
Yes, I replaced everything while I was in there even though the only thing I found wrong was the gaskets blown out on the tensioners. Nice and quiet for a week and then it started back up *#%*!!!. Half tempted to loosen the valve covers and pull the front cover to just look at replacing the tensioners again but leaning more to just selling the truck. Who wants a vehicle that expensive that makes you cringe every time you drive it. Had a Suburban Z71 for years and not a single issue. I've had two of these Screw's with the rattle, sick of it.
I am getting an O2 error on Torque but I don't know that it is related to my problem. Can I ask everyone why would my problem "idle retarding" P0012 happen ONLY after the engine has reached temp or about 10 miles. It makes no sense, why wouldn't it happen all the time and not just at temp?
I am getting an O2 error on Torque but I don't know that it is related to my problem. Can I ask everyone why would my problem "idle retarding" P0012 happen ONLY after the engine has reached temp or about 10 miles. It makes no sense, why wouldn't it happen all the time and not just at temp?
The cam phasing system doesn't activate until the engine gets to operating temperature. Before that, the phaser is locked in the full advance position.
The cam phasing system doesn't activate until the engine gets to operating temperature. Before that, the phaser is locked in the full advance position.
Good call, instead of tearing the whole front of the motor off first, will try lockouts/tuner with new plugs and hope it fixes it for a fraction of the cost.
Lockout kit is over priced I feel but what are you going to do http://www.livernoismotorsports.com/...epair-Kit.html
Yes, I replaced everything while I was in there even though the only thing I found wrong was the gaskets blown out on the tensioners. Nice and quiet for a week and then it started back up *#%*!!!. Half tempted to loosen the valve covers and pull the front cover to just look at replacing the tensioners again but leaning more to just selling the truck. Who wants a vehicle that expensive that makes you cringe every time you drive it. Had a Suburban Z71 for years and not a single issue. I've had two of these Screw's with the rattle, sick of it.
What do you mean by "everything"? Seems some people think a complete replacement is only what is in the cheap rock auto kit. That kit doesnt include the updated VCT selenoids.
I've got several thousand miles on my overhaul and the motor just purrs like a kitten. I drive without the radio on just so I can hear the smooth sweet sound. When I replaced "everything", I replaced:
* OEM tensioners
* OEM chains
* OEM sprocket
* New OEM crank pulley bolt (these are TTY, must be replaced every time they are removed)
* OEM guides
* OEM timing cover gaskets
* Updated OEM Phasers (with new bolts here, these are also TTY and therefore can only be used once)
* Updated OEM VCT Selenoids
* Victor Rienz valve cover gaskets and new VCT seals
Based on my experience, I think the tensioners are the most important things to replace, followed by the updated phaser and VCT selenoid designs.
Or if you did really replace everything, then maybe you had the bad luck of getting a bad replacement part or you have one of the replacement parts already fail... that would suck so I hope that's not the case for you...
HIGH MILEAGE Update: 2008 4WD SCREW King Ranch 187000 miles.
So ao couple of months ago I posted that I had the dieseling. Was throwing a "you're retarded 0022" code on cylinders 5 & 6. Took it to a local mechanic who replaced the cam phasers and ONE of the VCT solenoids. This did not fix the issue. Local mechanic suggested DEALER to scan and give a recommendation.
DEALER scanned and saw that the engine was still acting retarded (what I have chosen to call it) and told me that BOTH VCT's have to be REPLACED AT THE SAME TIME or it doesn't fix the issue.
GOOD NEWS: They installed two new solenoids at $65 each and about $800 labor and I think this problem is finally gone. Gas mileage increased from 15.5 to 17.5 and I no longer have the gassy smell...and I have warranty on repair...
BAD NEWS: Both exhaust manifolds have broken bolts and are loose. So $DEALER says they have to remove the engine from the truck to repair. Quoted $1K to to fix. I think that's high and one can get to the manifolds by removing front tires and fender liners. Anyone have any thoughts on manifolds on '08 after phaser replace?
Hey guys...just wanted to post on this thread my final results. Truck is so far so good 5 days from getting back. Alternator went out. Made dealership replace for free. Also had to get driver side cat converter taken care of (separate from this cost).
Between the cam phasers, timing chain, tensioners, etc. and 2 cop and plugs they said threw a code....bill was $4,216.33. Pics attached. Looking for some perspective of folks that paid a stealership to do. Also, potentially what to expect if you decide to get this kind of work done there. Probably on the high side but didn't have much of a choice (couldn't do myself and didn't know of a reputable mechanic I could trust for this job). Either way, just hope the trucks stays running good for a couple more years. Again..05 Lariat..162k miles before repair.
07-31-2014, 03:02 PM
Cam Phasers and Timing Chain
