The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound
#1551
I bought my 2008 Screw 5.4 with about 50K miles. The dieseling, rattling sound started and then kept getting louder. Seem to get worse doing trails in Colorado last fall. No CEL but would really rattle backing into the drive while cranking the wheel. Finally at 63K couldn't take it any longer. Since I live in a small town, I ordered all the parts including solenoids from Rock Auto. Had to rent the wrenches to get the fan clutch off from Autozone. Pulled inner fenders to make it easier to reach some bolts. Started pulling the plugs the night before so I could soak them overnight if necessary but they came right out. When I pulled the pulleys I noticed one rough one and one stiff one so I took them to BRC bearing and had them match them up and replaced them all. I also had to purchase a longer T27 screwdriver to get the solenoids off. Found that the solenoids were good, phasers were good, guides were good, chains and sprocket were good, tensioners were shot. Gaskets were like the white rubber bands but about a third as thick. The new tensioners I bought a new improved and more robust looking. Used a little rtv to hold the front cover and valve cover gaskets in place and bolted it back up. Pulled the fuel pump fuse, cranked it over, installed fuse and fired up nice and quiet. My wife loves the new quiet truck.
#1552
Junior Member
Major work being completed
Hey all,
New to the forum. Have an 05 F150 Lariat 3V V8. Had since mile 1 and now has 162k on the odometer. Always had the ticking..probably since 50k. Just lived with it. But last week was really bad. Super loud at start up...died down a bit when heated but even then still loud. NOTHING WAS WRONG WITH THE PERFORMANCE. Ran the same but i figured I want it for a while longer so maybe just get it done. Took it to dealership. recommended phaser replacement along with solenoids, gaskets, etc. $2500. Since reading here, I figured adding in new chains, tensionsers, etc. Mechanic though that stuff would be fine but I might have trusted you guys more than him. Brought the price to $3500. They replace and test drive and it is running rough. Threw it on the computer and codes pointed to two bad coils. having them replace only the two and the two plugs. I think I will take a stab at coils and plugs on the remaining 6 very soon. So now I am looking at 4k in total. One positive was they started her up for me and damn she sounded good. Wow what a difference. But the question remains, why is it running rough and wanting to stall? I figure if I did the job this should be happening but not professional mechanic and paying 4k on top of that. Any thoughts from the folks who have done it and it worked fine once completed?? Thanks ya'll
New to the forum. Have an 05 F150 Lariat 3V V8. Had since mile 1 and now has 162k on the odometer. Always had the ticking..probably since 50k. Just lived with it. But last week was really bad. Super loud at start up...died down a bit when heated but even then still loud. NOTHING WAS WRONG WITH THE PERFORMANCE. Ran the same but i figured I want it for a while longer so maybe just get it done. Took it to dealership. recommended phaser replacement along with solenoids, gaskets, etc. $2500. Since reading here, I figured adding in new chains, tensionsers, etc. Mechanic though that stuff would be fine but I might have trusted you guys more than him. Brought the price to $3500. They replace and test drive and it is running rough. Threw it on the computer and codes pointed to two bad coils. having them replace only the two and the two plugs. I think I will take a stab at coils and plugs on the remaining 6 very soon. So now I am looking at 4k in total. One positive was they started her up for me and damn she sounded good. Wow what a difference. But the question remains, why is it running rough and wanting to stall? I figure if I did the job this should be happening but not professional mechanic and paying 4k on top of that. Any thoughts from the folks who have done it and it worked fine once completed?? Thanks ya'll
#1553
Junior Member
According to the DIY threads this is a 12-13 hr job and about a $500 kit that includes chains and everything else. I don't know what you paid per hour but its up there. It don't sound right.
I'm planning on about $3600 but that includes the kit, solenoids, spark plugs and a lockout kit. Depends on the condition of the rails, a new oil pump might be worth it. I would like some nicer coil packs once its all over and a new intake. One thing that gets me is the way the power steering pump rusts up; doing some type of corrosion protection while its off would be key.
I'm planning on about $3600 but that includes the kit, solenoids, spark plugs and a lockout kit. Depends on the condition of the rails, a new oil pump might be worth it. I would like some nicer coil packs once its all over and a new intake. One thing that gets me is the way the power steering pump rusts up; doing some type of corrosion protection while its off would be key.
Last edited by DeadCode; 07-29-2014 at 05:57 PM.
#1554
Junior Member
I am looking at 4 k in total
Picked up the truck last night from dealer. Felt and sounded great. 3 miles down the road my check charging system light comes on....interior lights get really dim. Then my ABS and parking break light come on. I'm like hell naw!!!! I was turning around back to dealer, all my gauges and everything just shut off. My message system, RPM, everything..couldnt even get my power windows to come up..yet the truck was still running. But once that happened I was looking to just pull over but was at a red light. At that point it started shaking and hesitating. Accelerated to pull into a CVS and it just turned off on me. Had to get it towed back to dealership last night. They will feel my wrath this AM when they open. Final bill was 4.2k....around 2,037 for parts and 1,880 for labor...rest was taxes and shop fees. Totally pissed though!!!!! God Damn...truck ran fine before they touched it...just had the chain slap and phaser issues.
#1555
I wanted to update my last post. I had my phasers done. Everything. chains, guides, tensioners, solenoids, phasers, etc. It lasted a day and the death rattle started again at start up. I had to drive the truck so I let the shop know about the issue and continued to drive it. I put about 8000 miles on it over 2 months as it continued to get worse. Rattle at start up, smooth running until the engine warmed up then any stop light it would start to miss and rattle BAD! I was working out of town. It got so bad it also stopped running one day and I had to pull into a repair shop where they replaced a cam sensor and one coil. It was back to running bad but drivable. Freeway driving was ok as the engine was approching 2k rpms so it smoothed out. As soon as I got back to town I dropped the truck off at the shop that did the phasers. They pulled the right side cover and found a defective phaser. They changed it out. The truck runs awesome now. I'm thinking the mileage may even improve. I have to say even when the engine was out of whack I was getting 18.5 mpg on the freeway. Now onto the leaking right side manifold...
Last edited by Area51Werks; 07-30-2014 at 07:33 AM.
#1556
Junior Member
Picked up the truck last night from dealer. Felt and sounded great. 3 miles down the road my check charging system light comes on....interior lights get really dim. Then my ABS and parking break light come on. I'm like hell naw!!!! I was turning around back to dealer, all my gauges and everything just shut off. My message system, RPM, everything..couldnt even get my power windows to come up..yet the truck was still running. But once that happened I was looking to just pull over but was at a red light. At that point it started shaking and hesitating. Accelerated to pull into a CVS and it just turned off on me. Had to get it towed back to dealership last night. They will feel my wrath this AM when they open. Final bill was 4.2k....around 2,037 for parts and 1,880 for labor...rest was taxes and shop fees. Totally pissed though!!!!! God Damn...truck ran fine before they touched it...just had the chain slap and phaser issues.
Illumination Panel right before everything died
Last edited by HHF150; 07-30-2014 at 08:57 AM.
#1558
Dealership said they will really check everything. They apologized...blah blah blah...being 4k in the hole with these idiots I guess I have to have them figure it out but I wish I could just have it towed elsewhere. The idiots jumped the battery...it started up...the second they took the battery jumper machine off...it fizzled out and turned right back off on its own... then I hear a paint fast paced tick coming form the engine area that slowly fades away too. They think alternator...it was fine when I brought it in!!! Also from sitting overnight in their service bay....there is fluid under the truck...I get under there and it is red....trans fluid. The 10 years I owned the truck I never had a trans leak!!! What the hell did these people do!!! If I can get my truck right after all of this, this is the last time I take it to a dealership. I am in finance as my profession, but it looks like I will taking some mechanic classes on the side. After having the truck for almost 10 years (bought brand new) and basically having 162k miles of nothing serious happen, I probably should have considered trading it in rather than go through this hassle. This has been the worst nightmare I could have ever imagined!! Illumination Panel right before everything died
#1559
Junior Member
You are dead on Primo...in both instances. Regarding the Trans leak they said it was an o ring. Patched that. Sure enough was the alternator. Made them replace free of charge. They wanted to charge me another 500 for parts labor but I fought that seeing as I was already over 4k for everything. Running good now so happy. Will not be going to dealerships anymore though.
#1560
I'm going to bury this little gem right here, but a very knowledgeable longtime Ford employee recently disclosed that most Fords from 2001+ specify 5W20, but it is only for fuel economy ratings. He saw a bulletin from Ford at the time, which stated that it would make a 0.6% difference to the CAFE ratings. He suggested 5W30 was a better oil for these motors. Considering the problems that contribute to low oil pressure with these 5.4L's, it makes sense to me to use something slightly more viscous to keep the pressure up.