Okay thank you, what cost do you think I'm getting into?

 

My total cost was 3300. You can get the parts for about 500 from rock auto and do it yourself way cheaper. I did take it to the dealership so that price was pretty steep. My truck was undrivable and had to be towed there. I do have a 2 year warranty on the work and parts. Just glad it's done now.

 

Depends how far down the rabbit hole you want to go. I spent $1200 on parts and did it myself. You can buy cheaper aftermarket parts, but from what I've read, the outlook on those is uncertain. If you stick to just timing components, you can do it for $600-800 with motorcraft parts. Many will say (i'm one of them) you might as well do plugs and wires and a couple other parts while you're in there.

But with only 75K on the clock, If i was you I would do plugs before they get to bad then start saving for the timing upgrade and do that in a year or two or when is starts getting really bad

 

The diesel sound is likely the phasers and I've had that going on since 50k now at 125k with no problems yet. The ticking is another story. You have to figure out if it is your lash adjusters. If it is you should replace them soon because you can burn a valve or ruin your heads if you don't. I replaced mine at 115k when the ticking sound became audible in the cab. All my lash adjusters on both sides were complete seized. Truck is quiet now except for slight dieseling, which after eliminating the ticking sound I'm now convinced is being caused by the phasers. At 200k I plan on doing phasers and lash adjusters just as part of routine maintenance.

 

Just finished up changing the timing components including phasers! That really was a pain, but it was completely worth it! My 04 FX4 has 191k, and sounds brand new, except for the slight exhaust leak during warm up. I have a couple of pointers. I know some have been mentioned before, but I'm going to say them anyway.
1. You don't have to discharge the ac and remove the accumulator, but I highly recommend it. I didn't, and just took off the bolts, and moved the lines as much as I comfortably could. That's dangerous though, and if I had to do it again, I would have it have it discharged to avoid risk to myself and equipment.
2. Remove the power steering reservoir bracket AFTER the pump. It's a piece of cake then.
3. Suck it up and remove the power steering pulley. It doesn't take long and makes removing the pressure line easy.
4. Pop out the grommets and bolts from the right bank (passenger) valve cover.
5. Make sure that when you are paying attention to all the connectors, you don't forget about the power brake booster line. I just about crapped my pants when the idle started dropping until I saw the vac line still unplugged.
Every thing else has been said I guess. Good luck!

 

Ok guys, I need help/advice.

We have replaced timing chains, guides, tensioners, and phasers. Bolts are torqued to spec. Timing was checked several times after assembly. All marks lined up.
I have this noise (in the video below). We have already removed the cover, double checked everything and reassembled. Still occurs. What is it? It did not make this noise prior to disassembly, just had the bad rattle of the chains. Both tensioners were shot (blown seal in the corners). Chains had a bit of extra length (not much). We did not notice any new contact marks on the cover or elsewhere when we pulled it back apart....
Noise is loudest near the crank.

 

Sounds like the reluctor wheel hitting the cover inside.

 

No marks on the ring or the cover...

 

Boy it sure sounds like the reluctor ring hitting something. Crank sensor? If you turn over by hand can you feel or hear a scrape?

 

Negative. Turns over smooth. No grit, grinding, scraping, nothing.

I think the chains are just too tight coming over the guides. I bought the kit from Evergreen.... maybe they're just crap.