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2004 - 2008 Ford F150 General discussion on the 2004 - 2008 Ford F150 truck.

The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound

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Old Mar 27, 2014 | 08:47 PM
  #1241  
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Originally Posted by Primo
Yes, I am doing a terrible job explaining. You are supposed to set the engine at tdc. In this position the rh and lh marks on the phasers will be in the correct position, however, if you rotate the crank one full turn the lh and rh marks will now be opposite (or 180 degrees) (each phaser has both lh and rh marks)This is the position that I removed the phasers. The phasers are keyed and can only go on one way for each camshaft. So my question is will putting the new ones back on in this oriaentation still allow for correct timing. I still am probably doing a poor job describing.
Put the phaser on each one the only way it will go and slowly rotate each one around using the phaser bolt to turn it. Get the drivers side at 11 (sitting in the car) and then rotate the passenger side one the same way.
.....
Could you see the colored links on the old chain? If not, you have to rotate each one around. If you did and you know exactly where everything was, I can't see why you couldn't just put the **** back on the same way you took it off.
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Old Mar 27, 2014 | 08:48 PM
  #1242  
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Originally Posted by SafeCrackerCam
Put the phaser on each one the only way it will go and slowly rotate each one around using the phaser bolt to turn it. Get the drivers side at 11 (sitting in the car) and then rotate the passenger side one the same way.
.....
Could you see the colored links on the old chain? If not, you have to rotate each one around. If you did and you know exactly where everything was, I can't see why you couldn't just put the **** back on the same way you took it off.
lol...passenger side at 12....rotate same direction. if you have rags on top of the valves be careful they don't get pulled in by the rollers or phaser
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Old Mar 27, 2014 | 09:06 PM
  #1243  
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Originally Posted by SafeCrackerCam

Put the phaser on each one the only way it will go and slowly rotate each one around using the phaser bolt to turn it. Get the drivers side at 11 (sitting in the car) and then rotate the passenger side one the same way.
.....
Could you see the colored links on the old chain? If not, you have to rotate each one around. If you did and you know exactly where everything was, I can't see why you couldn't just put the **** back on the same way you took it off.
It's far too easy to get a phaser one tooth off. It's always best to properly align the timing marks.
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Old Mar 27, 2014 | 10:00 PM
  #1244  
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Safecracker, I am using one of your picks to hopefully better derscribe where I am at. This pick shows the phasers in the correct position for removal. Mine are in the opposite position (take the one on the right and move it to the left, same for the left one) My crank is positioned exactly as shown. So the cams are 180 degrees off because I was pissed for having to do this job again and just lined crap up and started pulling stuff off without paying attention (lesson learned). Vtx advice is good for peace of mind, but I have an aversion to cranking the cams around. If the valves don't clear then I am really screwed. Logic is telling me I can just line up the links since they are exactly 180 degrees from the starting point the documents reccomed. As vtx said , the crank doenst know, and if it's exactly 180 then I should be able to just use the links???
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Old Mar 27, 2014 | 10:05 PM
  #1245  
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here is the pic
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Old Mar 27, 2014 | 11:02 PM
  #1246  
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Originally Posted by Primo
Safecracker, I am using one of your picks to hopefully better derscribe where I am at. This pick shows the phasers in the correct position for removal. Mine are in the opposite position (take the one on the right and move it to the left, same for the left one) My crank is positioned exactly as shown. So the cams are 180 degrees off because I was pissed for having to do this job again and just lined crap up and started pulling stuff off without paying attention (lesson learned). Vtx advice is good for peace of mind, but I have an aversion to cranking the cams around. If the valves don't clear then I am really screwed. Logic is telling me I can just line up the links since they are exactly 180 degrees from the starting point the documents reccomed. As vtx said , the crank doenst know, and if it's exactly 180 then I should be able to just use the links???
That sounds logial to me. Just make sure to crank the crankshaft pulley around 2 full times to make sure it's good to go.
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Old Mar 27, 2014 | 11:04 PM
  #1247  
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Originally Posted by Primo
Safecracker, I am using one of your picks to hopefully better derscribe where I am at. This pick shows the phasers in the correct position for removal. Mine are in the opposite position (take the one on the right and move it to the left, same for the left one) My crank is positioned exactly as shown. So the cams are 180 degrees off because I was pissed for having to do this job again and just lined crap up and started pulling stuff off without paying attention (lesson learned). Vtx advice is good for peace of mind, but I have an aversion to cranking the cams around. If the valves don't clear then I am really screwed. Logic is telling me I can just line up the links since they are exactly 180 degrees from the starting point the documents reccomed. As vtx said , the crank doenst know, and if it's exactly 180 then I should be able to just use the links???
To be absolutely sure, get the cams in the proper position. You would hate to get it all put back together just to have to take it apart again. In addition, the VCT system can vary cam timing by 60°. The last thing you want is for a valve to hit a piston when the engine warms up and VCT activates because you were a few teeth off. .

Last edited by VTX1800N1; Mar 28, 2014 at 07:10 PM.
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Old Mar 28, 2014 | 07:17 PM
  #1248  
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Ok so I went ahead and took off the covers and reinspected everything. I had the timing marks all lined up and good to go per the pictures on the first page. Today I got everything put together, threw in fresh oil, new coolant, power steering fluid, checked all vacuum lines, electrical connectors, held the gas down for about 10 seconds while cranking, tried to start started and it started right up and sounded GREAT...


Ran for about 5 seconds and sputtered to death.


Check gauges light comes on, as well as flashing engine light, but no codes on either my crappy iPhone OBDII scanner or my Diablo Sport.

Anybody got any ideas?
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Old Mar 28, 2014 | 07:20 PM
  #1249  
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Originally Posted by djfuzzy
Ok so I went ahead and took off the covers and reinspected everything. I had the timing marks all lined up and good to go per the pictures on the first page. Today I got everything put together, threw in fresh oil, new coolant, power steering fluid, checked all vacuum lines, electrical connectors, held the gas down for about 10 seconds while cranking, tried to start started and it started right up and sounded GREAT...

Ran for about 5 seconds and sputtered to death.

Check gauges light comes on, as well as flashing engine light, but no codes on either my crappy iPhone OBDII scanner or my Diablo Sport.

Anybody got any ideas?
Did you try to start it again? Depending how long you had it apart and what you took apart, you might have a significant amount of air in the fuel lines. Just guessing here.
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Old Mar 28, 2014 | 08:24 PM
  #1250  
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Just talked to the mechanic that has had my truck while I've been on vacation. He says my driver side chain had over an inch of slack in it and both phasers were sprung. The good news was he had no problem with the plugs and the lash adjusters were all working properly.
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