Thanks man. Probably won't be able to fire her up til the morning but I'm pretty sure I got all the timing marks lend up correctly. I think I was just overthinking it because I read stuff about needing the crank at TDC, at 12 o'clock, at 10 o'clock, and all other hours of the day.

I ended up installing with the crank sprocket at 12 so the timing mark was at the position it shows per the guide on the first page. Double checked marks and torque before I put the cover back on. I got the cams set by using the phaser as close I could tell from the pictures. All I know is the colored links matched up and it appeared that the lobes were in the right spot. I turned the crank by hand once I got the front cover back on and it seemed to rotate with no interference or weird noises, so I hope that's a good sign.

 

I don't know if that's right Fuzz. You may want to get someone to give you the thumbs up on what you did. If the passenger phaser was at 12 and the drivers side phaser was at 11 (looking from the drivers seat) the crank sprocket should have a mark on it to be lined up dead at 6:00. To me, this takes the place of buying that 50 dollar tool. Look below.

When installing the chain did you make sure all of the slack was on on the guide side?


Pic 1 -Position the lower end of the LH (inner) timing chain on the crankshaft sprocket, aligning the timing mark on the outer flange of the crankshaft sprocket with the single copper (marked) link on the chain.

Pic 2 - Position the timing chain on the camshaft sprocket with the camshaft sprocket timing mark positioned between the 2 copper (marked) chain links.

Pic 3 - Position the lower end of the RH (outer) timing chain on the crankshaft sprocket, aligning the timing mark on the sprocket with the single copper (marked) chain link.

Pic 4 - The camshaft phaser and sprocket will be stamped with one of the illustrated timing marks for the RH camshaft. NOTE: The lower half of the timing chain must be positioned above the tensioner arm dowel. Position the RH timing chain on the camshaft phaser and sprocket. Make sure the timing mark is positioned between the 2 copper (marked) chain links.

Pic 5 - As a post-check, verify correct alignment of all timing marks.

 

It didn't attach the pics in the order that I did...damn. First pic just the drivers side chain is in the pic with the crank sprocket timing mark at 6. Second pic is the phaser with the L. 3rd pic is the crank sprocket with both chains on it. 4th is the phaser with the R...it also posted the other types of marks the phaser could have I guess...the last pic is actually the first one you see in the reply.

 

TIMING DRIVE COMPONENTS step by step without pics

Installation

CAUTION: Damage to the camshaft phaser sprocket assembly will occur if mishandled or used as a lifting or leveraging device.
NOTE: LH shown, RH similar.

Position the camshaft phaser and sprockets and 2 new camshaft phaser and sprocket bolts finger tight.




CAUTION: Damage to the camshaft phaser and sprocket assembly will occur if mishandled or used as a lifting or leveraging device.
CAUTION: Only use hand tools to remove the camshaft phaser and sprocket assembly or damage may occur to the camshaft phaser and sprocket.

NOTE: LH shown, RH similar.

Using the Cam Phaser Locking Tool, tighten the LH and RH camshaft phaser and sprocket bolts in 2 stages.
Stage 1: Tighten to 40 Nm (30 ft. lbs.) .
Stage 2: Tighten an additional 90 degrees .



Position the crankshaft with the Crankshaft Holding Tool, then remove the tool.



CAUTION: Timing chain procedures must be followed exactly or damage to valves and pistons will result.
CAUTION: Prior to installation, inspect the tensioner-sealing bead for seal integrity. If cracks, tears, separation from the tensioner body or permanent compression of the seal bead is observed, install a new tensioner or engine damage may occur.

Compress the tensioner plunger, using a vise.




Install a retaining clip on the tensioner to hold the plunger in during installation.



Remove the tensioner from the vise.
If the copper links are not visible, mark 2 links on one end and 1 link on the other end, and use as timing marks.



Install the crankshaft sprocket, making sure the flange faces forward.



Install the 4 bolts and the LH and RH timing chain guides.
Tighten to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.) .



Position the lower end of the LH (inner) timing chain on the crankshaft sprocket, aligning the timing mark on the outer flange of the crankshaft sprocket with the single copper (marked) link on the chain.



NOTE: Make sure the upper half of the timing chain is below the tensioner arm dowel.
Position the timing chain on the camshaft sprocket with the camshaft sprocket timing mark positioned between the 2 copper (marked) chain links.




NOTE: The LH timing chain tensioner arm has a bump near the dowel hole for identification.
Position the LH timing chain tensioner arm on the dowel pin and install the LH timing chain tensioner and bolts.
Tighten to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.) .



Remove the retaining clip from the LH timing chain tensioner.



Position the lower end of the RH (outer) timing chain on the crankshaft sprocket, aligning the timing mark on the sprocket with the single copper (marked) chain link.



NOTE: The camshaft phaser and sprocket will be stamped with one of the illustrated timing marks for the RH camshaft.
NOTE: The lower half of the timing chain must be positioned above the tensioner arm dowel.

Position the RH timing chain on the camshaft phaser and sprocket. Make sure the timing mark is positioned between the 2 copper (marked) chain links.




Position the RH timing chain tensioner arm on the dowel pin and install the RH timing chain tensioner and the 2 bolts.
Tighten to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.) .



Remove the retaining clip from the RH timing chain tensioner.



As a post-check, verify correct alignment of all timing marks.



Install the crankshaft sensor ring on the crankshaft.



CAUTION: If the components are to be reinstalled, they must be installed into their original locations. Failure to follow this instruction may result in engine damage.



Install the engine front cover.

 

Ok here's the last pics I took before throwing it all back together. If this isn't right then I'm rolling the truck off a cliff.

LH chain installed
https://i.imgur.com/L8XWwx2.jpg

RH chain installed
https://i.imgur.com/hm0UHtw.jpg

LH phaser position
https://i.imgur.com/GSLPSMV.jpg

RH phaser position
https://i.imgur.com/ZWnGZbh.jpg

Please say that's right because I was almost done putting everything back together when I got the notification that this thread was bumped.

 

I wanted to write to tell everyone thank you for all this info. I picked up all the parts and have got the front tore apart. I went ahead and pulled oil pan and cleaned out plastic from the guides. Also cleaned out pickup tube and changed oil pump for good measure. I do have a question though. The gaskets on valve covers and timing cover are in good shape. Are they ok to reuse?

Second how do you change the crank front seal?

Where can I find out where to apply rtv? Which rtv should I use?

Sorry for all the questions but I'm this far and I want to get it right.

 

Fuzz...why is your right side chain not look like it was put on at 6:00 too? it looks like you turned the crank. Are both links side by side under that mark at 6?

 

They are supposed to be reusable but they are about $30 at Advanced so why not get them.
Hit the old one out with a big socket. I think 1 7/8 or something monstrous like that is what it took. Use a board and hammer to pop the new one in.
Get gray RTV. I used it in the entire tracks of the valve covers to hold it in for me. Without discharging the AC this could have been a real pain in the *** to do w/o the RTV. Also make sure to throw some down where the timing cover corners meet the valve covers.

 

Whoops wrong pic

https://i.imgur.com/g5OtLpG.jpg

Whoops, wrong pic. I installed everything as shown in the diagrams on the first page of this thread.

 

As I stated several posts ago, I am in the process of doing this all over again. This time replacing everything with oem, phasers, chains, guides, tensioners, roller rockers, lash adjusters, oil pump. Just thought I would pass along, you can get the oil pump off without dropping the pan as long as you are not concerned with inspecting the pick up tube screen. (with my 4x4 it looked like I would have to also pull axels). The two pick up tube bolts can be removed from the pump, just takes a steady hand and a little patience to get them back in. Since I have not had broken pieces, I was not to concerned about the screen. Blew some compressed air down it for good measure. Turns out all 24 of my lash adjusters were seized to some extent. Should wrap it up in a day or two.