You can try unplugging the vct solenoids. Look up on you tube about vct solenoids see if that's the same noise

 

Thank you! I appreciate it. I will give it a shot. Sorry for all the questions. If I unplug them, will the tick go away or reduce immediately if that's what's causing the problem?

 

Sounds to me like three possible things
1: exhaust leak?
2: change in fuel? Try a good octane booster with full fuel system cleaner.... The higher octane fuel could have been cleaning your system of all that crappy 85 fuel.
3: VCT ... I doubt it ... Bu hey, unplug em n see what happens.

 

Thanks for the ideas.

What is the best way to confirm an exhaust leak? Can that cause a really loud tick?

Also I will try the octane booster and higher octane fuel but that is when u started having problems.

I will try the vct in the morning.

Could it be anything to do with the spark plugs? Fouled plug?

 

About my initial start up issue, just gonna post this here and get some ideas in case someone can offer up something for me to check out.

This is broken.
https://i.imgur.com/roIMJSl.jpg

It goes into a t-connector and the other side of the T goes to the little black box behind the battery box. Could that be a reason for the super choppy idle/motor just about jumping out of the engine compartment?

Also I didn't connect any fuel lines through the phaser and timing swap but what I assume is the supply line in the driver's side fuel rail (where there appears to be a sensor/electrical connector) has fuel around the edges of it. Does this piece have a gasket?

I want to run codes on the truck, but I took the battery out last night and don't want to restart the truck with it running this way.

I'm almost positive it's not a timing issue that I am experiencing because I was EXTREMELY meticulous about chain, crank, cam and phaser position. I used this thread, a Haynes and a chilton guide while putting all that together so id hate to have to redo it.

Any suggestions are more than welcomez

 

Did you take that connection off the fuel rail? or start to? Are you talking about the Fuel Pressure/Temp Switch?


Removal and Installation
Release the fuel system pressure.
Disconnect the fuel rail pressure and temperature sensor electrical connector.
Disconnect the fuel rail pressure and temperature sensor vacuum connector.
Remove the bolts and the fuel rail pressure and temperature sensor.
To install, tighten to 4 Nm (35 lb-in) .
Remove and discard the O-ring seal.
Install a new O-ring seal and lubricate it with clean engine oil.
To install, reverse the removal procedure.

 

That's the thing I'm talking about. I never did anything with it but it seems to be where fuel is leaking from.

Looks like I need to go pick up some o-rings

 

I'm looking for the other part. I don't know what that is but I'll find it on DIY.

 

I don't see what you are looking at. I only see the battery cables and the ac compressor behind the battery box. Maybe the windshield washer line.

 

That vac line looks to be broken, and yes its probably bleeding off Vaccum from your vacuum reservoir by the battery.. Put your fingers over both the open ends and your idle may smooth right out.. It looks like the line itself is a clean break.. A coupling will fix that in a second.. It probably broke when you pulled the valve cover for the timing job..