The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound
What kind of sorcery or black magic holds this power steering pump on to the motor?
Seriously. I have removed two 10mm bolts but it looks like there's supposed to be another one and it may be broken off. At the head maybe... It's the 'frontmost' one I guess you could call it. It's the only thing keeping me from getting the timing cover off at this point
Seriously. I have removed two 10mm bolts but it looks like there's supposed to be another one and it may be broken off. At the head maybe... It's the 'frontmost' one I guess you could call it. It's the only thing keeping me from getting the timing cover off at this point
What kind of sorcery or black magic holds this power steering pump on to the motor?
Seriously. I have removed two 10mm bolts but it looks like there's supposed to be another one and it may be broken off. At the head maybe... It's the 'frontmost' one I guess you could call it. It's the only thing keeping me from getting the timing cover off at this point
Seriously. I have removed two 10mm bolts but it looks like there's supposed to be another one and it may be broken off. At the head maybe... It's the 'frontmost' one I guess you could call it. It's the only thing keeping me from getting the timing cover off at this point
There are 2 at the top and 1 towards the bottom. The bottom 1 is to the motor side of a line on the bottom of the pump. I took the pulley off my pump because I couldn't get a wrench in the right position to get the bolt loose. My pump also had 2 alignment sleeve on the top bolts from the pump to the motor.
The bottom one is towards the firewall, and it's hard to reach but it's probably still there. You can see it from the wheel well if you get in the exact right position. There's also a tab next to the bolt that will keep it from falling when the bolts are out, just pull the pump off.
The bottom one is towards the firewall, and it's hard to reach but it's probably still there. You can see it from the wheel well if you get in the exact right position. There's also a tab next to the bolt that will keep it from falling when the bolts are out, just pull the pump off.
It took me most of the weeked but I finally am inside the timing cover. Probably took me 10-12 hours for the tear out but I had no lift, no impact or other special tools. I have my truck pulled halfway into my garage with window plastic taped around all 4 sides to seal it off with the pending snowmageddon coming.
I have a couple comments and several questions before I can go further and take out the timing components.
-The hardest bolts to get were the oil and transmission dipstick tubes and definitely the crankshaft pulley bolt. I used a lot of liquid wrench, patience and back muscle to break those suckers.
-My left side guide is broken at the top mounting bolt. It was about 1" x 1/8" x 1/8". I haven't found it yet but I hope when I remove the chains I'll be able to stick my hand in the oil pan to find it. Also the bottom mounting bolt for the same guide was fully unthreaded and out as far as the timing cover would let it go.
-I spent a lot more than $400 for parts. I bought new gaskets, rtv, harmonic balance puller, 5 galls on antifreeze, 14 qts of oil for 2 quick oil changes, reluctor ring, fan wrench set, and god knows what else.
-Certain parts really help having two people. The passenger side valve cover needed 7 hands and 3 more inches to come out easy. I have no idea how it is going back in withing fudging up the gasket. That's later though. I didn't discharge the AC so I just "slid" it "2" (more like lifted it off its mount barely and thats about as far as it goes).
-I started around 10pm Friday night and was labeling each bolt in a bin as I took it out. Around 4am I got tired and started setting them all over the place. There are several bolts (10 ish) that I am not quite sure where they go. That too is a problem to handle later.
-I found all of the valve cover bolts easy to get to and easy to get out.
-The rental fan wrench set from Advanced Auto was a waste of time. They didn't have the right sizes. Two pairs of channel locks worked.
-Don't be afraid to whip out those open ended wrenches. The power steering pump pulley and 4 front oil pan bolts will need one.
-If you put towels in place of the valve covers to make sure dirt doesn't get in there, make sure the cam phasers don't grab them while messing with the crankshaft pulley. It started sucking one of mine down, luckily I noticed.
My truck has 171,000 miles on it. I bought a reluctor ring but the one I pulled out looks great.
-Do I need to do anything with the motor before removing the chain, tensioners and guides? Can I just take them out or does everything need to be turned into a certain position first?
-What exactly is the purpose of putting vice grips on the cam phasers? Is this just for tightening the bolt if you don't have the cam phaser locking tool?
-Does anyone know the exact thread size, length and type of screw I need for the crankshaft pulley? That part should be listed on the first page with the other parts. It needs to be replaced and nobody has it. I haven't been to the dealer.
I hope someone will be around tonight and tomorrow because this is the part that worries me. I don't completely understand TDC or what exactly I have to do when I replace the chains, phasers, tensioners and guides. I'm going to follow the steps but between AllDataDIY, Haynes and this guide I feel like I'm going to miss something.
I have a couple comments and several questions before I can go further and take out the timing components.
-The hardest bolts to get were the oil and transmission dipstick tubes and definitely the crankshaft pulley bolt. I used a lot of liquid wrench, patience and back muscle to break those suckers.
-My left side guide is broken at the top mounting bolt. It was about 1" x 1/8" x 1/8". I haven't found it yet but I hope when I remove the chains I'll be able to stick my hand in the oil pan to find it. Also the bottom mounting bolt for the same guide was fully unthreaded and out as far as the timing cover would let it go.
-I spent a lot more than $400 for parts. I bought new gaskets, rtv, harmonic balance puller, 5 galls on antifreeze, 14 qts of oil for 2 quick oil changes, reluctor ring, fan wrench set, and god knows what else.
-Certain parts really help having two people. The passenger side valve cover needed 7 hands and 3 more inches to come out easy. I have no idea how it is going back in withing fudging up the gasket. That's later though. I didn't discharge the AC so I just "slid" it "2" (more like lifted it off its mount barely and thats about as far as it goes).
-I started around 10pm Friday night and was labeling each bolt in a bin as I took it out. Around 4am I got tired and started setting them all over the place. There are several bolts (10 ish) that I am not quite sure where they go. That too is a problem to handle later.
-I found all of the valve cover bolts easy to get to and easy to get out.
-The rental fan wrench set from Advanced Auto was a waste of time. They didn't have the right sizes. Two pairs of channel locks worked.
-Don't be afraid to whip out those open ended wrenches. The power steering pump pulley and 4 front oil pan bolts will need one.
-If you put towels in place of the valve covers to make sure dirt doesn't get in there, make sure the cam phasers don't grab them while messing with the crankshaft pulley. It started sucking one of mine down, luckily I noticed.
My truck has 171,000 miles on it. I bought a reluctor ring but the one I pulled out looks great.
-Do I need to do anything with the motor before removing the chain, tensioners and guides? Can I just take them out or does everything need to be turned into a certain position first?
-What exactly is the purpose of putting vice grips on the cam phasers? Is this just for tightening the bolt if you don't have the cam phaser locking tool?
-Does anyone know the exact thread size, length and type of screw I need for the crankshaft pulley? That part should be listed on the first page with the other parts. It needs to be replaced and nobody has it. I haven't been to the dealer.
I hope someone will be around tonight and tomorrow because this is the part that worries me. I don't completely understand TDC or what exactly I have to do when I replace the chains, phasers, tensioners and guides. I'm going to follow the steps but between AllDataDIY, Haynes and this guide I feel like I'm going to miss something.
DJ, there is no screw in that hole. I thought the same thing. Go underneath and look up. It will have a black plastic cap on the end of the bolt that is attached to wires coming down. It is a nut with a threaded bolt coming off the end of it. Almost directly below the top bolt that is closest to the fire wall.
DJ, there is no screw in that hole. I thought the same thing. Go underneath and look up. It will have a black plastic cap on the end of the bolt that is attached to wires coming down. It is a nut with a threaded bolt coming off the end of it. Almost directly below the top bolt that is closest to the fire wall.
If I remember right (I just did it this morning), I could not get a deep well socket on it because of the steering linkage. I had to use an open ended wrence on it as well I believe. I messed around with moving the steering wheel for a few minutes and then gave up when I got tired of crawling under the truck.


