That was my original intent when I tore it down. I've owned the truck for 10k miles, one phaser looks like it's been replaced. The truck has sat for over 24 hours, timing chain is still tight. At this point, I'm still planning on replacing tensionsers, but the guides all look good to me. I can't find debris in either of the VCT solenoids or head. Primalurges, what's the procedure you used to take the cam out without the spring compressor? How long did it take you? Any tips on the adjusters and followers?

On another note, for anyone looking into this...I'm a little ticked at myself for not checking all the adjusters/followers closely - if I had I may never have taken the front cover off. Of course, the bad one is the very back one against the firewall. Oh well, it's a learning experience and it's nice to see everything in good shape.

 

Nevermind

 

Do the adjusters and followers make the same noise as the bad phasers or what? i can barely budget this job right now and the extra 300 for these is not really an option unless its mandatory..

 

ive also started to notice a slight knocking noise when the motor is cold as well.. sounds different than the diesel sound i get at warm idle. its more of a knock than the diesel slapping sound.. related to tensioners and phasers? i get the start up rattle as well which im sure is a leaking tensioner.

 

My lash adjuster taps just like a traditional lifter problem, always there regardless of RPM. When you get the valve covers off, check all the rocker/followers for play - it's pretty obvious when you find one. My issue was that I didn't reach back far enough to check the last one next to the firewall, and missed it.

 

Does anybody have a part number for the proper crankshaft pulley puller that works for this truck? Either AutoZone or O'Reilly brands because that's all that's out here...

 

I want to say thanks to s vares for putting this together. This has great detail and includes torque specs.

Also want to say thanks to everyone else that has included help.

I just did both phasers, chains, tensions, & guides. Took about 14 hours. I wasn't in a hurry. Just wanted making sure everything was correct. I was dreading do this job but knew I could do this since I'm a do it yourselfer.

I bought the phasers, chains, tensioners, & guides off ebay from oemselectautoparts (local Ford dealer). We paid $579 for the kit.

I did purchase valve cover gaskets and vct housing gaskets (these are made of metal) seperately.

My oil pressure is higher now with the Motorcraft 5-20 that it was with 5-40.

The passenger tensioner was bad and the passenger phaser came a part. Truck is now quiet with the exception of the injectors.


You can use this if you get the correct bolt to screw into the pulley: http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/atta...ng_puller1.jpg

 

Cam removal lash and lifters is about 30-40 minutes each side. Only loosen one side at a time. Use a sharpie to mark chain to phaser and front cam cap to cam. Use a breaker bar to give the cam phaser bolt a quick yank to break it lose. Use the wedge tool to Keep the chain in place. Remove the phaser bolt and slide phaser off the cam. Begin to evenly loosen the cam caps. The springs will push the cam up about a quarter of an inch. The cam caps are numbered and have an arrow for orientation, they'll have to go back in the same position. When you remove the cam the followers will come off by hand. You can check your lash adjusters by pushing down on them, they should compress. If your going to replace them they come right off with a pair of pliers. Replacement is the reverse of the process. Line up the sharpie mark on the cam with the marking on the cam cap. There is a specific tightening sequence for the cam caps. While tightening you have to evenly tighten the caps and they'll start compressing springs. Once caps have been torqued to spec use a pair of vice grips to grab cam between lobes to align with sharpie mark so that phaser will slide right in. Remember that phaser bolt is torque yield and cannot be used. Tighten to spec and use sharpie to mark bolt and quarter turn position on phaser. Give phaser bolt quarter turn. Remove wedge. Repeat process on other side. The first 3 or 4 seconds of initial start up will be very noisy because chain tensioner will be lose from wedge compression.

 

if your ticking is only for 3 or 4 seconds on start up then it's only chain tensioners. If you have a ticking that is present cold and warm then it's followers and adjusters. If your engine is quiet until it warms up it's the phasers.

 

tensioners, followers and lash adjusters.