The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound
03-25-2015, 03:03 PM
#1961
I want to tackle this fix one day soon but first i want to pull a valve cover and some cam caps one at a time to make sure there is no scoring on the cam or caps from low oil pressure . I would hate to dump a ton of money into a dying motor.
Right now my hot oil pressure is 23-25psi with mobil 1 5w20 w/ 7 qts of oil .
Which valve cover is the easiest to check out first?
What is the torque on the cam cap bolts?
Are the cam cap bolts are not torque to yield bolts?
Right now my hot oil pressure is 23-25psi with mobil 1 5w20 w/ 7 qts of oil .
Which valve cover is the easiest to check out first?
What is the torque on the cam cap bolts?
Are the cam cap bolts are not torque to yield bolts?
03-25-2015, 05:01 PM
#1962
Update-well the thin seal are intact on both.
I heard a weeping leak around the right side tensioner hyd valve as I turned the crank by my bare hands but after cleaning them I noticed they both had a very small pin hole in them like maybe there for either bleeding excess psi off or as a way to spray the guides IDK.
I was able to remove the oil pump without dropping the pan BUT trying to reinstall the pickup tube to the new oil pump was a botch.
Note: power steering pulley
I couldnt remove it with the tool & even with a little heat on the hub from my propane torch & tapping with a hammer it still didnt want to let go.
I wasted a lot time on that pulley where just unbolting the pump wasnt that bad to remove.
I heard a weeping leak around the right side tensioner hyd valve as I turned the crank by my bare hands but after cleaning them I noticed they both had a very small pin hole in them like maybe there for either bleeding excess psi off or as a way to spray the guides IDK.
I was able to remove the oil pump without dropping the pan BUT trying to reinstall the pickup tube to the new oil pump was a botch.
Note: power steering pulley
I couldnt remove it with the tool & even with a little heat on the hub from my propane torch & tapping with a hammer it still didnt want to let go.
I wasted a lot time on that pulley where just unbolting the pump wasnt that bad to remove.
Last edited by Fordjunkync; 03-29-2015 at 11:54 PM.
03-25-2015, 05:07 PM
#1963
Ford Enthusiast
You need to be at TDC, NOT just top dead center according to your timing cover but TDC according to your timing cover and with your #1 cylinder valves closed. Now when your timing chain links line up with your sprocket marking and your phaser markings, you have a working engine! Even this is not easy because there are two chains with two tensioners and two tensioner arms which can jump the chain while installing. Use a mirror or camera to recheck that you are on the correct link after assembly, I wasn't the first time. I can't imagine doing this out of TDC, on the correct revolution. edit. Oh your TDC degrees don't have to be EXACT I did it with the mark on the sprocket at the bottom center of the crankshaft. Like you I set it after removing the Timing cover.
03-25-2015, 08:45 PM
#1964
Texas A&M Aggie
The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound
I found a video from a Ford tech that showed how to replace the chains and retime the whole engine which is how I ended up going with my repairs. I'll try to find the video and post it. It made it so much easier IMO.
03-25-2015, 10:03 PM
#1965
"In general"
Once I got looking at the chain how they line up
its as simple as setting #1 piston up on TDC with #1 & #5 intake lobes on there base circle before disassemble.
As for installing the chains you line the chains master links in this sequence/pattern onto the gears & push the phasers onto the cams, may have to bump the crank to line the dowels up IF the cam followers weren't removed.
.
Picture is from the OP "s vares"on page 1
Here also
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/tip-gui...lation-294718/
A chest full of pictures here also ;-).
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/2004-3v...263806/index2/
.
Once I got looking at the chain how they line up
its as simple as setting #1 piston up on TDC with #1 & #5 intake lobes on there base circle before disassemble.
As for installing the chains you line the chains master links in this sequence/pattern onto the gears & push the phasers onto the cams, may have to bump the crank to line the dowels up IF the cam followers weren't removed.
.Picture is from the OP "s vares"on page 1
Here also
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/tip-gui...lation-294718/
A chest full of pictures here also ;-).
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/2004-3v...263806/index2/
.
Last edited by Fordjunkync; 03-26-2015 at 09:11 AM.
03-28-2015, 05:59 PM
#1966
Just received my listed as "OEM" (knock off fake) VVT valves off ebay (listed only under fords part#).
Plain white box with a basic sticker.
No brand markings at all on the part itself (designed different also).
Motorcraft has markings/#s etc on theres)
I will be returning them!!!
Seller has a 99.3% rating as I assume know one knows the difference.
Just went through this with buying fuel injectors for my car.
Out of just 13 dealers I searched on, 8 were from CA.
Seems the most copied parts come from CA.
.
Plain white box with a basic sticker.
No brand markings at all on the part itself (designed different also).
Motorcraft has markings/#s etc on theres)
I will be returning them!!!
Seller has a 99.3% rating as I assume know one knows the difference.
Just went through this with buying fuel injectors for my car.
Out of just 13 dealers I searched on, 8 were from CA.
Seems the most copied parts come from CA.
.
Last edited by Fordjunkync; 03-28-2015 at 09:51 PM.
03-29-2015, 03:23 PM
#1967
Just received my listed as "OEM" (knock off fake) VVT valves off ebay (listed only under fords part#).
Plain white box with a basic sticker.
No brand markings at all on the part itself (designed different also).
Motorcraft has markings/#s etc on theres)
I will be returning them!!!
Seller has a 99.3% rating as I assume know one knows the difference.
Just went through this with buying fuel injectors for my car.
Out of just 13 dealers I searched on, 8 were from CA.
Seems the most copied parts come from CA.
.
Plain white box with a basic sticker.
No brand markings at all on the part itself (designed different also).
Motorcraft has markings/#s etc on theres)
I will be returning them!!!
Seller has a 99.3% rating as I assume know one knows the difference.
Just went through this with buying fuel injectors for my car.
Out of just 13 dealers I searched on, 8 were from CA.
Seems the most copied parts come from CA.
.
03-29-2015, 03:43 PM
#1968
topoutdoorparts
I should of known better dealing with them after looking into there info more.
Why in the world would ford NOT use a gasket between the oil pump & the block!!!!
Some of the stupidest shat ive seen!!!!
I can see why the oil runs over the top of the oil pump with the noted/known issues at increased rpms.
Id blame not having a gasket over the noted/known issues of the backing plate distorting!
BUT then again GMs front mounted oil pump doesnt use a gasket either.
.
I should of known better dealing with them after looking into there info more.
Why in the world would ford NOT use a gasket between the oil pump & the block!!!!
Some of the stupidest shat ive seen!!!!
I can see why the oil runs over the top of the oil pump with the noted/known issues at increased rpms.
Id blame not having a gasket over the noted/known issues of the backing plate distorting!
BUT then again GMs front mounted oil pump doesnt use a gasket either.
.
Last edited by Fordjunkync; 03-29-2015 at 06:02 PM.
03-29-2015, 05:53 PM
#1969
FYI
Maybe this can be added to those making the collection posts.
Motorcrafts OLD Version VS UPDATED version
(this 1 picture from this website)
Motorcraft has part#s on them.
Motorcrafts updated version
UNKNOWN Brand
Sold as Motorcraft
Note the crimped housing & screens
No #s at all located on this part
Dorman version
(Looks exactly like the 1 above except for not having the added screen in the center).
Maybe this can be added to those making the collection posts.
Motorcrafts OLD Version VS UPDATED version
(this 1 picture from this website)
Motorcraft has part#s on them.
Motorcrafts updated version
UNKNOWN Brand
Sold as Motorcraft
Note the crimped housing & screens
No #s at all located on this part
Dorman version
(Looks exactly like the 1 above except for not having the added screen in the center).
Last edited by Fordjunkync; 03-29-2015 at 11:57 PM.
The following users liked this post:
MGD (03-29-2015)
03-29-2015, 05:57 PM
#1970
^^^ Yep.
The ONLY VCT solenoid you should be running is the -B revision MC units. With thr smaller orifices.
Anything else is a crapshoot.
Dorman makes junk. Period.
MGD
The ONLY VCT solenoid you should be running is the -B revision MC units. With thr smaller orifices.
Anything else is a crapshoot.
Dorman makes junk. Period.
MGD