Island Truck

Wow... 20-50! I agree with your philosophy that it's better to fix the root problem than try to mask it with thick oil. If the previous owner had the phasers replaced but didn't replace the tensioners or VCT solenoids, that may be why the noise persisted. Who knows what impact the 20-50 has had, tho. I did the repair and I'm running 5-20 with no noise.

txresq

I have to agree with Island Truck regarding the heavier weight oil. I think increasing the viscosity of oil to solve engine problems is like trying to raise your blood pressure while you're having a heart attack - it just makes it work harder and can lead to more harm than good. This is just my 2 cents. I was told that the previous owner of my truck had also replaced the cam phasers, but took on this project anyway to eliminate the noise. When I opened it I found that only one cam phaser had been replaced. I replaced both as well as the tensioners, chains, and guides. Now it's super quiet and I'm also running 5-20. I was able to complete this job with simple tools and a few rentals from autozone (power steering pulley puller & harmonic balancer puller/installer). Just so you know, you might spend a small fortune paying someone else to do this for you. I know others have spent 2-3K getting this done, so it might be worth giving it a shot yourself.

f150Matt

Why cant a gear assembly be made to replace the phaser assembly entirely? I saw some people use the livernois lockouts to accomplish the same thing. So rather than even use the cam phasers at all, could'nt a sprocket be designed to replace the whole assembly? I have a custom gear manufacturer close by. Please chime in!

Also for those of you using the livernois product, I see that you have to decide on either full retard or full advance? Would this livernois product and a cam replacement eliminate the need for that choice and also retain the lost HP? I am not after HP, I just want to know if a replacement cam would retain full HP and give proper ...well...everything? How expensive is a cam if you are already into the engine this far?

Still want to hear from local Denver/Boulder area mechanics (and any place even close) so I can get this done!

Thanks!

2002VertGt

I don't know about the lockouts and such but I'd bet my truck that it's your tentioners failing...that was my biggest problem and it actually caused chain slap which f'ed up the timing cover and relucter ring.

Markdas

Wow, 52 pages and still going! Well done Steve (s_Varres) for kicking this off and persevering with the advice not to do half a job. It seems like a while since I did mine now (I did the whole lot, including all lash adjusters and rockers as I thought the worst job of all was removing those damn rocker covers)!!! I used OEM parts but got a decent deal when buying it all. If you have 100,000 + and you have ticking due to the oil system pressure, I would recommend going the extra mile and doing the rockers and lash adjusters too.......if you are keeping the truck, it will do another 100,000 after you fix all this!
Afterwards, change the oil after 500-1000 miles, just in case you have any fine metalic particles and then stick to Motorcraft 5/20 and Motorcraft filters.......
These engines are pretty good and rather high tech but when they work, they work well!
Im now on to 178,000 and it still tows our race car and trailer no problem at all.
This is a great guide and this job is totally do-able if you enjoy getting stuck into logical mechanical work!
Good luck and keep the updates coming!
Mark

Switchgear480

What level of skill do you recommend this job for? Ive changed starters and brakes before or would this be for a more seasoned wrench?

Island Truck

It's more difficult than a starter or brakes. But I did it and that's all I have ever done. For me it was a matter of time. I had a week and other cars so I could go slowly and not screw it up. I also had the shop manual which helps.

2002VertGt

When I was a kid I helped my dad a lot, I guess more like got in the way. But other than when I was a kid the extent of my mechanical ability is limited to about the same as yours. I have done this job a few times now thanks to my truck...the first time my cousin helped me and it took us like 17-20 hrs. The last time I did it it took me 10 hrs by my self. It is not hard. Just take your time and don't rush. S_varres will help you the whole way. I can help you as well if you need it. Don't pay the shop to do something you can do!

dixie_boysles

See what you think about this....after truck has been driven around i can go to park and if i have my window down you can hear a distinctive tapping. Not a diesel knock like phaser noise but like if you took a piece of metal dowel or something of that nature and tapped it on a table top. Once i tap the gas (in park of course) it goes away.

I know for the past few months, my truck would make the awful rattling sound on cold startup which im assuming is a failed tensioner. I changed the oil the other day and its yet to do it again but i figure once the oil gets some miles and wears down a bit it will make the startup noise.

So u think the tapping could be just loose chain? Or a guide?

I will be ordering all those parts on the first page and replacing all the timing stuff, thinking about skipping phasers however IF mine are fine. That would save me about $200. Though while im in there, may as well....right.

Just wanted some input on what you think the tapping could be. Btw, truck has 83k on it

2002VertGt

Could be light chain slap...I would just do the phasers though....it's a pain to do that over and over...believe me, I've opened her up 4 times