F-150 rear end shudder fixed. New limited slip clutch pack installation how to.
12-02-2013, 03:48 PM
#1
F-150 rear end shudder fixed. New limited slip clutch pack installation how to.
Changed the limited slip clutch packs on my 2004 F-150, 4x4. Piece of cake. Couldn't find a good instructional out there. So here you go. Sorry no photos, click the link at the bottom for an IPB then you can match the #'s up with the parts in the pictures.
Materials: 2 bottles friction modifier from ford., Clutch packs from Ford, 3 quartz Royal purple diff fluid, RTV, Metric socket set, sheet of cardboard for laying parts out and sharpie to label them
1. Chock front tires. Jack up the rear end. Secure on jack stands. Loosen the 12 mm (#43) bolts around diff cover and let drain into pan.
2. Get the new clutch packs soaking in friction modifier. Make sure you do this.
3. While diff is draining go ahead and take the tires, brakes and rotors off… My brakes and rotors were pretty much rusted on there. They were a pain to get off. I had to bang the heck out of them with a sledge to get them off, drop your drive shaft too.
4. By now, diff should be drained. Finish removing cover. Set aside. Spray everything down with brake cleaner, mop up extra fluid, and scrape RTV off mating surfaces.
5. Rotate axle until you see 8mm retaining bolt (#5). Remove this.
6. Push center pin out (#9). Shouldn’t take much, it will pretty much fall right out.
7. Push the axles (#38) inboard and remove C-clips(#6) with needle node pliers. Put clips on your cardboard sheet. Label their location. Pull axles far enough outboard to clear differential.
8. Remove (#21) on both sides of the carrier bearing. It is 4 bolts. ¾” is what I used, because I don’t have metric that big.
9. Place, all of these parts on cardboard box and label what side it came from. Don’t screw this up, everything needs to go back exactly as it came out. Know what is left and right top and bottom. Take pics with your cell phone if you need to.
10. Now pull the limited slip unit out (#15). Give it a quick wipe down and take it to your work bench. Don’t mix up the bearing races or spacers (#11, #12). Use your sharpie and cardboard sheet to label them.
11. Press the S-spring out(#46). This takes some strong thumbs, use a mallet if you can’t press it out by hand.
12. Now you can walk spider gears out by hand(#8). Place races and gears on cardboard box. Don’t forget to label.
13. (#4)Take out the bevel gears. Set aside on your cardboard sheet, label them. Do not screw up these stack-ups. You need these later to know how to build the new ones up.
14. Get the new clutch packs(#1, #2, #3) and place them on bevel gears, in EXACTLY the same order as the old ones. It should look like this shim, friction disc, smooth disc, smooth disc, friction disc, smooth disc, bevel gear. But again, use the old stack up as a guide.
15. Put the bevel gears(#4) back in on their respective sides, then walk the spider gears back in.
16. Make sure the pin (#9) passes through freely.
17. Now put the S-spring back in(#46). This is a pain in the ***. I compressed it with vice grips, then tied .032 safety wire around it to hold it compressed. Then pushed it in. Clipped the safety wire and pulled the wire out. Good luck with this. This was the worst part of the whole job. Muscle them in, use a vice, vice grips, I don’t know what the best way is, I happened to have safety wire. I am sure you can figure out.
18. OK, put the limited slip unit back in (#15), with bearing races and spacers (#11 and #12). The bevel on the spacer goes outboard.
19. Put 4 bolts back in (#21). Tighten until you feel a sharp rise in torque, then another 15 degrees. Should be around 90 ft. lbs. if you get **** about that type of thing.
20. Push the axles (#38) inboard and install C-clips(#6) with needle nose pliers. Pull axles outboard.
21. Install center pin(#9).
22. Install 8mm retaining bolt (#5).
23. Axle should rotate freely, if everything is installed correctly. If not, start over. You screwed something up.
24. Apply bead of RTV to diff cover and install. Snug up bolts 90 percent of the way, give it 20 minutes or so then snug it up the rest of the way.
25. Fill diff with 4 oz. friction modifier and 2.5 quartz Royal purple diff fluid.
26. Reattach drive shaft. Put rotors, brakes and tires back on.
27. Go drive figure 8’s to work fluid into new clutch plates.
Materials: 2 bottles friction modifier from ford., Clutch packs from Ford, 3 quartz Royal purple diff fluid, RTV, Metric socket set, sheet of cardboard for laying parts out and sharpie to label them
1. Chock front tires. Jack up the rear end. Secure on jack stands. Loosen the 12 mm (#43) bolts around diff cover and let drain into pan.
2. Get the new clutch packs soaking in friction modifier. Make sure you do this.
3. While diff is draining go ahead and take the tires, brakes and rotors off… My brakes and rotors were pretty much rusted on there. They were a pain to get off. I had to bang the heck out of them with a sledge to get them off, drop your drive shaft too.
4. By now, diff should be drained. Finish removing cover. Set aside. Spray everything down with brake cleaner, mop up extra fluid, and scrape RTV off mating surfaces.
5. Rotate axle until you see 8mm retaining bolt (#5). Remove this.
6. Push center pin out (#9). Shouldn’t take much, it will pretty much fall right out.
7. Push the axles (#38) inboard and remove C-clips(#6) with needle node pliers. Put clips on your cardboard sheet. Label their location. Pull axles far enough outboard to clear differential.
8. Remove (#21) on both sides of the carrier bearing. It is 4 bolts. ¾” is what I used, because I don’t have metric that big.
9. Place, all of these parts on cardboard box and label what side it came from. Don’t screw this up, everything needs to go back exactly as it came out. Know what is left and right top and bottom. Take pics with your cell phone if you need to.
10. Now pull the limited slip unit out (#15). Give it a quick wipe down and take it to your work bench. Don’t mix up the bearing races or spacers (#11, #12). Use your sharpie and cardboard sheet to label them.
11. Press the S-spring out(#46). This takes some strong thumbs, use a mallet if you can’t press it out by hand.
12. Now you can walk spider gears out by hand(#8). Place races and gears on cardboard box. Don’t forget to label.
13. (#4)Take out the bevel gears. Set aside on your cardboard sheet, label them. Do not screw up these stack-ups. You need these later to know how to build the new ones up.
14. Get the new clutch packs(#1, #2, #3) and place them on bevel gears, in EXACTLY the same order as the old ones. It should look like this shim, friction disc, smooth disc, smooth disc, friction disc, smooth disc, bevel gear. But again, use the old stack up as a guide.
15. Put the bevel gears(#4) back in on their respective sides, then walk the spider gears back in.
16. Make sure the pin (#9) passes through freely.
17. Now put the S-spring back in(#46). This is a pain in the ***. I compressed it with vice grips, then tied .032 safety wire around it to hold it compressed. Then pushed it in. Clipped the safety wire and pulled the wire out. Good luck with this. This was the worst part of the whole job. Muscle them in, use a vice, vice grips, I don’t know what the best way is, I happened to have safety wire. I am sure you can figure out.
18. OK, put the limited slip unit back in (#15), with bearing races and spacers (#11 and #12). The bevel on the spacer goes outboard.
19. Put 4 bolts back in (#21). Tighten until you feel a sharp rise in torque, then another 15 degrees. Should be around 90 ft. lbs. if you get **** about that type of thing.
20. Push the axles (#38) inboard and install C-clips(#6) with needle nose pliers. Pull axles outboard.
21. Install center pin(#9).
22. Install 8mm retaining bolt (#5).
23. Axle should rotate freely, if everything is installed correctly. If not, start over. You screwed something up.
24. Apply bead of RTV to diff cover and install. Snug up bolts 90 percent of the way, give it 20 minutes or so then snug it up the rest of the way.
25. Fill diff with 4 oz. friction modifier and 2.5 quartz Royal purple diff fluid.
26. Reattach drive shaft. Put rotors, brakes and tires back on.
27. Go drive figure 8’s to work fluid into new clutch plates.
Last edited by Tnelson82; 12-02-2013 at 04:43 PM.
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