Topic Sponsor
2004 - 2008 Ford F150 General discussion on the 2004 - 2008 Ford F150 truck.

Engine stopped running after trans change

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 03-16-2017, 08:25 PM
  #1  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Can't leave it stock's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Engine stopped running after trans change

Ok so a month ago my wife was driving her 06 f150 4x4 5.4l 154,000 when with no warning it shifts into neutral and says trans fault she kept it running as it's cold outside here in Maine I ordered and installed a new trans last week from jasper engines the truck fired right up but idled down and stalled I checked codes only code was p0010 for bank 1 actuator circuit open or fault, a guy at auto zone suggested changing vct solenoid I did it ran better for maybe 45 seconds then stalled out again with same code it won't idle on its own changed plugs, boots, reset code still no idle have to hold rpms up then it runs rough let it warm up all the way still same thing, next day I took off terminals and grounds and cleaned all contact surfaces now it cranks but won't start just hiccups occasionally like it wants to still with code p0010 cleaned maf no change. Had chain or phaser rattle when it ran and going down the road if you hit the gas it would hesitate badly before accelerating. Only thing I can think of is new timing set but looking for more experienced opinoins
Old 03-17-2017, 05:43 AM
  #2  
05 5.4l 3v s.crew lariat
 
redfishtd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: fl
Posts: 3,386
Received 627 Likes on 564 Posts

Default You are in the zone for a timing job

How is your oil pressure . The gauge on the dash is junk it will read mid line if oil pressure 7psi or above .
If your tensioners have blown out seals, it will let tension off chains it will whip around breaking guides , Plastic goes to oil pickup screen and jams it . In short pull oil pan and look for plastic, if there you need timing job / The tensioners only handle about a half inch of chain stretch anyway .
This engine uses dirty engine oil to hydraulically control cams, combustion dirt jams up screens etc in this circuit . Don't use an extended oil change 3/5k max syn oil please. its the dirt not the lube quality that causes the problem . Use wally world mc filters as it has good drain back valve .
Use only oem parts except maybe melling 340/360 oil pump , oem pump weak. . Use metal style ratcheting tensioners not new plastic ones , no gasket to blow out . Follow svares final fix . But there are other advice short cuts on here if you want to do timing job .
Let us know about your oil pan next . only use oem VCTS and phasors , we are serious . See oem select ebay .
Old 03-17-2017, 07:48 PM
  #3  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Can't leave it stock's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Thanks for the info I will drop the pan this Sunday and check it out I'll post the findings and some pictures
Old 03-19-2017, 04:24 PM
  #4  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Can't leave it stock's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Ok so I dropped pan no problems pick up tube is clean, put in new oil, found out fuse 32 was blown traced that to up draft 02 sensor in bank 2 changed it old one had a strong smell of gas so I checked for spark on coil number 6 it has spark but it's really weak Orange spark not blue like it should be probably not sparking under compression there is a module above the spare tire I was told to check I cleaned the contacts and it started trying to start again but only for a couple seconds then back to no attempt just cranks endlessly.
Old 03-19-2017, 04:37 PM
  #5  
Cycle For Fun and Health
 
joe mcmillan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Toledo
Posts: 3,025
Received 495 Likes on 384 Posts

Default

That module above spare tire is the FPDM. Fuel Pump Drive Module. You say you cleaned contacts. Not usually an issue there.
Remove that module and inspect for cracked or broken case. Part of the case is aluminum and part is plastic. The aluminum usually suffers from electrolysis and cracks or just deteriorates til the electronics are exposed to atmosphere. If any crack or opening shows, replace. You can get a new one cheapest on Amazon - or purchase at a local parts store.
Old 03-19-2017, 05:25 PM
  #6  
05 5.4l 3v s.crew lariat
 
redfishtd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: fl
Posts: 3,386
Received 627 Likes on 564 Posts

Default FPDM will go bad with salt /water etc .

New ones are on stand offs to get aluminum off steel . Common cause for crank but no start . Lack of fuel ! I see you are from maine , I replaced mine and I'm in fla.
Old 03-19-2017, 06:42 PM
  #7  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Can't leave it stock's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Ok thanks for the info i just checked fpdm has several cracks in plastic and the tabs from where it snaps together are broken off like someone tried to open it I'll replace tomorrow and post results any ideas as far as the weak spark
Old 03-24-2017, 07:15 PM
  #8  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Can't leave it stock's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Replaced fpdm no change still cranks endlessly with no attempt to start took it to a mechanic he had it a week then brought it back still not running no charge says it has spark and fuel no idea what is wrong with it, It is throwing no codes and is no longer blowing fuses only thing I can think of is pcm or timing. Will it throw a code if pcm is bad and is there a way to check timing without removing front cover
Old 03-25-2017, 11:14 AM
  #9  
05 5.4l 3v s.crew lariat
 
redfishtd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: fl
Posts: 3,386
Received 627 Likes on 564 Posts

Default With out it running I doubt it --timing that is

I don't have torque pro on an android phone with a bluetooth adapter but they seem to do a lot of things if shes running . F150torqued is the best engine analyst on here ,he's retired and has done the timing job, but he's really savvy . PM him maybe he can help you hone in on it .
I have not changed PCM some guys on here have . Some have used a mobile mechanic with a good reputation to come out like your case if shes not running.
From what you have said opening timing cover is your next step . You know some bad stuff is happening in there no sense putting it off . Tone ring maybe damaged as well as crankshaft sensor that runs off tone ring . She very well may have jumped time . The best code reader is not going to fix any of that . So it will be a timing job ,check out oem parts from oem select ebay . Oil pump from amazon melling 340 or 360 . Metal tensioners-- then sell plastic ones you get with kit . You are in the zone with the miles so its normal for this engine .
There's lots of help on here , sorry you have to find a heated garage this time of year but this job requires a couple of days to a week depending on how hard you want to hit it . I'm retired an not an engine man and I took two weeks at 3 hours a day working on it in the heat . You can figure about 1400 in parts . I'm an old guy, if I did it you can too ,I was never a mechanic .
Check those cams and rollers out first thing see if they are badly damaged .
read svares final fix sticky and check out Makuloco on you tube he's great.
Keep posting and good luck we will be watching for pictures etc .
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/14...n-related.html
Old 03-25-2017, 11:22 AM
  #10  
05 5.4l 3v s.crew lariat
 
redfishtd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: fl
Posts: 3,386
Received 627 Likes on 564 Posts

Default Just in case

I forgot to tell you that I had a fit with that connector on the FPDM . It was shutting down intermittently after changing module, turns our gasket in there was causing intermittent connection . Pulled it out and has run ever since . I'm not the only one that had that happen .




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:06 PM.