Engine shaking issues/ Vibration
03-13-2012, 01:32 PM
#11
HarrisRacing17
i would like to point out one major fact a lot of us are missing if not just not mentioning, rather than replacing your entire COP try just replacing the boots. i work for an autoparts store adn thats what we suggest to most clients and it works, alot of the times the springs inside are worn out as much as it doesnt seem adn the boot insulator may not be insulating properly anymore
03-14-2012, 08:42 PM
#12
Junior Member
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My 2006 with 80,000 miles does exactly this. At first it was shaking on occasion. It would also backfire under hard acceleration. The engine keeps identifying cylinder #7 as the culprit. On a 5.4 the cylinders are numbered 1-4 on the passenger side moving from the radiator to the fire wall. 5-8 are driver's side. 5 is toward the radiator 8 against the fire wall. so 7 is 3rd in on the driver's side.
This is what I've done thus far.
1) new plugs changed $400
2) new number 7 injector
3) all coils tested ok. #7 coil switched with cylinder #1 both with new plug boots & springs.
The shop I took it to only had a hand held code reader & it still says #7 is the problem.
They could not do a compression test because they didn't have the correct fitting to work with this type of engine.
Their guess is 5 possible things;
Burnt valve. (doesn't answer the on/off acting up)
Weak/broken valve spring (doesn't answer the on/off acting up)
The ignition control module (The Brain) may be bad. (explains the on/off situation)
The cam sensor (CMS) (This is what caused similar issues on my powerstroke diesel) replaced it & never had another issue!
The crank sensor (CKS)
I pulled the #7 coil this evening started the truck & held a screw driver in the end & arc'd it to the steering shaft. It sparked consistently for 5 minutes & the engine ran smooth on 7 cylinders.
Currently have $500 invested in this issue & no resolution yet.
I have 2 paths to take. A friend owns a 10 bay garage & claims to have the best mechanics around & says they can fix anything. Problem is they are foreign experts. Mercedes, BMW, LEXUS, Volvo. Don't want to spend huge $$$ for them to learn on a Ford truck.
Option 2) I know another fellow who works for Roush & is a Ford specialist. He claims he can figure it out. He's busy & can't get to it for a bit.
I'll keep everyone up to date with what happens.
Just curious, what cylinder is missing for you???
This is what I've done thus far.
1) new plugs changed $400
2) new number 7 injector
3) all coils tested ok. #7 coil switched with cylinder #1 both with new plug boots & springs.
The shop I took it to only had a hand held code reader & it still says #7 is the problem.
They could not do a compression test because they didn't have the correct fitting to work with this type of engine.
Their guess is 5 possible things;
Burnt valve. (doesn't answer the on/off acting up)
Weak/broken valve spring (doesn't answer the on/off acting up)
The ignition control module (The Brain) may be bad. (explains the on/off situation)
The cam sensor (CMS) (This is what caused similar issues on my powerstroke diesel) replaced it & never had another issue!
The crank sensor (CKS)
I pulled the #7 coil this evening started the truck & held a screw driver in the end & arc'd it to the steering shaft. It sparked consistently for 5 minutes & the engine ran smooth on 7 cylinders.
Currently have $500 invested in this issue & no resolution yet.
I have 2 paths to take. A friend owns a 10 bay garage & claims to have the best mechanics around & says they can fix anything. Problem is they are foreign experts. Mercedes, BMW, LEXUS, Volvo. Don't want to spend huge $$$ for them to learn on a Ford truck.
Option 2) I know another fellow who works for Roush & is a Ford specialist. He claims he can figure it out. He's busy & can't get to it for a bit.
I'll keep everyone up to date with what happens.
Just curious, what cylinder is missing for you???
Well, replaced the plug boots. Not that bad of a job. helps to have an air ratchet!
Did NOT solve the problem! Hopefully my Roush guy can look at it tomorrow.
03-15-2012, 02:23 AM
#14
Senior Member
Its really easy actually...unplug the connector on top of each one, be careful to release it easily as to not break the plastic release tab. Then theres a 7mm bolt to undo on each one and then you just pull them up. It might take a little pulling since they are suctioned onto the plugs but dont be afraid to pull them up.
I just changed mine last weekend along with my spark plugs at 92,500 miles and I had the stumble at wide open throttle with no codes. I put in Global Automotive brand COP's after reading a couple people didnt have a problem with them. They are $89 for all 8 so I figured it was worth a shot in my eyes instead of paying the $42 apiece. Hopefully, it works out for me. So far, my problem is gone and my truck runs like new.
I just changed mine last weekend along with my spark plugs at 92,500 miles and I had the stumble at wide open throttle with no codes. I put in Global Automotive brand COP's after reading a couple people didnt have a problem with them. They are $89 for all 8 so I figured it was worth a shot in my eyes instead of paying the $42 apiece. Hopefully, it works out for me. So far, my problem is gone and my truck runs like new.
03-15-2012, 01:39 PM
#15
Senior Member
I have this exact problem, the "dealership" (stealur****) told me that it was the tires because they were real knobby.. I replaced the tires with regular street tires and problem is still there... Then they said control arm... Replaced that too problem is still there... I get it the worst between 50-55 and anything over 65+ 1-49 seem to be okay for the most part and 56-64 seem to be ok too. It's pretty funny in a 55 zone I usually go 49ish and on the highway you always see me in the far right lane going 64ish. I get these vibrations and its real annoying cause it starts rattling my ash and what not.
03-15-2012, 03:50 PM
#16
Originally Posted by Rosie
I have this exact problem, the "dealership" (stealur****) told me that it was the tires because they were real knobby.. I replaced the tires with regular street tires and problem is still there... Then they said control arm... Replaced that too problem is still there... I get it the worst between 50-55 and anything over 65+ 1-49 seem to be okay for the most part and 56-64 seem to be ok too. It's pretty funny in a 55 zone I usually go 49ish and on the highway you always see me in the far right lane going 64ish. I get these vibrations and its real annoying cause it starts rattling my ash and what not.
My truck is a 2005 Ford F150 XL 4.2L single cab. It all started when I replaced my tires. I have a vibration that makes my bed bounce between 50-55 mph. The vibration is felt when accelerating and slowing down at the same speed. Since then I have changed my rims, shocks, u-joints, new tires again. My transmission rebuilt but the problem was there before and after. New front and rear shocks. I recently changed lower and upper ball joints.
According to the dealership when my truck was still under warranty they replaced driveshaft and differential (I really don't think they did anything).
Maybe driveshaft or the truck might be too sensitive that the will do this if the tires are unbalanced just a little bit.
03-15-2012, 11:53 PM
#17
HarrisRacing17
Originally Posted by 06F150CFCT
Its really easy actually...unplug the connector on top of each one, be careful to release it easily as to not break the plastic release tab. Then theres a 7mm bolt to undo on each one and then you just pull them up. It might take a little pulling since they are suctioned onto the plugs but dont be afraid to pull them up.
I just changed mine last weekend along with my spark plugs at 92,500 miles and I had the stumble at wide open throttle with no codes. I put in Global Automotive brand COP's after reading a couple people didnt have a problem with them. They are $89 for all 8 so I figured it was worth a shot in my eyes instead of paying the $42 apiece. Hopefully, it works out for me. So far, my problem is gone and my truck runs like new.
I just changed mine last weekend along with my spark plugs at 92,500 miles and I had the stumble at wide open throttle with no codes. I put in Global Automotive brand COP's after reading a couple people didnt have a problem with them. They are $89 for all 8 so I figured it was worth a shot in my eyes instead of paying the $42 apiece. Hopefully, it works out for me. So far, my problem is gone and my truck runs like new.
03-16-2012, 12:27 AM
#18
Senior Member
Originally Posted by HarrisRacing17
Where do you find said COPS? I work for a car parts shop but even at cost I'm 38 a piece
