electric fans.
02-04-2015, 01:54 PM
#11
'08f150stx
Motorcraft fans are (P/N AL3Z-8C607-A) from the 2010 f-150. These fans are very strong at 100%
The part number may have changed because of a revision.
Got mine from Tasca. Check other places. Part was too new for me to find them in a boneyard, besides most were front end collisions.
I used delta digital controller with mine.
A painless f5 was available, but mine burned up. Known failure.
Others have not had that happen. Maybe the redesign has come out.
Whatever you do, enjoy. I suggest buying the pig tails for whichever fan unit you purchase. New 2010 fans were @$200. Flow over 4000 cfm at 100% speed.
The part number may have changed because of a revision.
Got mine from Tasca. Check other places. Part was too new for me to find them in a boneyard, besides most were front end collisions.
I used delta digital controller with mine.
A painless f5 was available, but mine burned up. Known failure.
Others have not had that happen. Maybe the redesign has come out.
Whatever you do, enjoy. I suggest buying the pig tails for whichever fan unit you purchase. New 2010 fans were @$200. Flow over 4000 cfm at 100% speed.
02-04-2015, 04:17 PM
#12
I just found a new lincoln mark viii dual speed new in box for 50 bucks. And bought the whole flex a lite controller kit for 130. Just to answer the cfm question cfm [MENTION=129256]100[/MENTION]% this beauty puts out a whopping 4600cfm. Thats more than plenty of air flow. Thanks for the help guys!! Ill do the install soon and post pics
02-04-2015, 04:56 PM
#13
I actually made my own system with two 16inch 3000cfm fans! I have it set up so they run in series (6v.. half speed) at 180F and both at full speed at 200F. Put a nifty little LED fault indicator in my dash that lets me know if the fan is receiving power and not running (burnt out) with a override switch just in case my system i made stops working i can manually force them on with the switch. I didn't trust the kits they sell from Troyer or those ebay kits. Everyone says they have issues with them or when towing they overheat. So my solution was to make my own kit... Then i know it will work. There is spare fuse spots you can use in your factory fuse box under your glove box i tapped off of and used a 30 amp fuse to protect the system. Mine looks like it came from the factory with them installed. I tow and even in 100 degrees I only got my high speed to kick on a few times while I was sitting in traffic. I can get you a parts list if you'd like if your mechanically inclined.... took about 3 hours to build. I think stock your Clutch fan only produces about 3000CFM i got two just in case one fan failed i'd still be fine. MPG didn't really increases much maybe 1-2mpg
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johnrob10 (06-21-2021)
02-04-2015, 05:04 PM
#14
I actually made my own system with two 16inch 3000cfm fans! I have it set up so they run in series (6v.. half speed) at 180F and both at full speed at 200F. Put a nifty little LED fault indicator in my dash that lets me know if the fan is receiving power and not running (burnt out) with a override switch just in case my system i made stops working i can manually force them on with the switch. I didn't trust the kits they sell from Troyer or those ebay kits. Everyone says they have issues with them or when towing they overheat. So my solution was to make my own kit... Then i know it will work. There is spare fuse spots you can use in your factory fuse box under your glove box i tapped off of and used a 30 amp fuse to protect the system. Mine looks like it came from the factory with them installed. I tow and even in 100 degrees I only got my high speed to kick on a few times while I was sitting in traffic. I can get you a parts list if you'd like if your mechanically inclined.... took about 3 hours to build. I think stock your Clutch fan only produces about 3000CFM i got two just in case one fan failed i'd still be fine. MPG didn't really increases much maybe 1-2mpg
Thanks for your input!
02-05-2015, 04:42 AM
#15
Yea if you could trent post a parts list for others to have that option. Im going to go the lincoln mark fan route as i already bought everything.as does yours have a fan shroud those double 16's are mounted to that draws air through the full area of the radiator? Asking because ive heard if not, youll have hot spots from ththe portion of radiator not fanned.....but thats just what ive heard, soundl like your system works great either way.
Thanks for your input!
Thanks for your input!
Last edited by Trent W; 02-05-2015 at 05:00 AM.
02-05-2015, 05:22 AM
#16
Moderator (Ret.)
I too live in "Africa hot summer" conditions in Florida, so the two speed fan will work just fine. This arrangement will work on any engine setup. I helped a nephew put this into his 2005 5.4, I had it in a 4.2, V6, a 3.0 Ranger, and now its in my 2007 4.6 Ford F150. As I mentioned, by using just the outer ring/fan/motor of the Mark VIII, you can easily put it into any stock fan shroud.
The two speed IMO is the best setup, as you get one fan to kick on anytime the AC is turned on, and then the second speed kicks on with a temp sensor.
I like the Ron Francis controller for two reasons: the temp probe uses an eyelet that is bolted under an intake manifold bolt, rather than a probe that's shoved into a radiator fin (which can seperate the fin from the tube, causing a "cold spot" on the radiator), and it's wiring; all labeled on the insulation of the wire as to where it connects. This kit, and their customer service help is best.
The DCC controller is good too. I had one of these in my first truck. The guy that makes them is great, but he used to have troubles with his turn around time. he had health issues a long time ago, and folks that ordered from him waited weeks for their controller. I believe this is no longer an issue though.
Summit racing has the Ron francis controllers in stock at $134.00. This controller IMO is the easiest, and best controller for this type of install.
The two speed IMO is the best setup, as you get one fan to kick on anytime the AC is turned on, and then the second speed kicks on with a temp sensor.
I like the Ron Francis controller for two reasons: the temp probe uses an eyelet that is bolted under an intake manifold bolt, rather than a probe that's shoved into a radiator fin (which can seperate the fin from the tube, causing a "cold spot" on the radiator), and it's wiring; all labeled on the insulation of the wire as to where it connects. This kit, and their customer service help is best.
The DCC controller is good too. I had one of these in my first truck. The guy that makes them is great, but he used to have troubles with his turn around time. he had health issues a long time ago, and folks that ordered from him waited weeks for their controller. I believe this is no longer an issue though.
Summit racing has the Ron francis controllers in stock at $134.00. This controller IMO is the easiest, and best controller for this type of install.
Last edited by Mod (Ret.); 03-09-2015 at 05:03 AM.
02-05-2015, 05:00 PM
#17
'08f150stx
I too live in "Africa hot summer" conditions in Florida, so the two speed fan will work just fine. This arrangement will work on any engine setup. I helped a nephew put this into his 2005 5.4, I had it in a 4.2, V6, a 3.0 Ranger, and now its in my 2007 4.6 Ford F150. As I mentioned, by using just the outer ring/fan/motor of the Mark VIII, you can easily put it into any stock fan shroud.
The two speed IMO is the best setup, as you get one fan to kick on anytime the AC is turned on, and then the second speed kicks on with a temp sensor.
I like the Ron Francis controller for two reasons: the temp probe uses an eyelet that is bolted under an intack manifold bolt, rather than a probe that's shoved into a radiator fin (which can seperate the fin from the tube, causing a "cold spot" on the radiator), and it's wiring; all labeled on the insulation of the wire as to where it connects. This kit, and their customer service help is best.
The DCC controller is good too. I had one of these in my first truck. The guy that makes them is great, but he used to have troubles with his turn around time. he had health issues a long time ago, and folks that orderdd from him waited weeks for their controller. I believe this is no longer an issue though.
Summit racing has the Ron francis controllers in stock at $134.00. This controller IMO is the easiest, and best controller for this type of install.
The two speed IMO is the best setup, as you get one fan to kick on anytime the AC is turned on, and then the second speed kicks on with a temp sensor.
I like the Ron Francis controller for two reasons: the temp probe uses an eyelet that is bolted under an intack manifold bolt, rather than a probe that's shoved into a radiator fin (which can seperate the fin from the tube, causing a "cold spot" on the radiator), and it's wiring; all labeled on the insulation of the wire as to where it connects. This kit, and their customer service help is best.
The DCC controller is good too. I had one of these in my first truck. The guy that makes them is great, but he used to have troubles with his turn around time. he had health issues a long time ago, and folks that orderdd from him waited weeks for their controller. I believe this is no longer an issue though.
Summit racing has the Ron francis controllers in stock at $134.00. This controller IMO is the easiest, and best controller for this type of install.
Where did you tap into for the ignition wire?
02-06-2015, 08:14 AM
#18
Moderator (Ret.)
It was easy for the 4.2 V6 and the 3.0 (Ranger) V6, as they used a single coil pack.
Wire marked #1 is Switching Signal circuit
Wire marked #2 is 12 volts Constant
Wire marked #1 is Switching Signal circuit
Wire marked #2 is 12 volts Constant
02-07-2015, 11:57 PM
#19
A long, long time ago, I did a write up on buying a controller, and a Mark VII or VIII e-fan from a Taurus or Lincoln. The boneyards are full of them. It is a two speed fan, and a good used one can be had for under 50 bucks. Don't be afraid to buy used, as the one I bought a few years ago was in my 2005, then went into a 2000 Ranger, and is now currently in my 2007; used and still blowing low and high speed.
You'll pay more for a decent 2 speed controll then the fan itself; don't cheap out on the controller, and don't hard wire it directly to the battery!!! The good controllers will have two relays (one for the low speed for when the AC is on, and one for the high speed when the engine temp sensor that is adjustable on the good controllers). Beware! There are cheap controllers out there.
Total cost invested was $165.00. This setup is now on its third truck! I kept the old fan/electric clutch, so when I traded that truck for each new (used) one, this e-fan setup got installed into it.
And if you're worried about a used electric motor from a junk yard, don't. Mine is over 4 years old now, and still spinning. You can buy a replacement electric motor for them; just go to your parts store and ask for an electric fan motor for a Taurus; they are made by Siemens.
One good one is from Delta Current Control, the other is from Ron Francis (AR99 - $134.21 on Summit). Both have the dual relays, both have "staert up" amp protection. I prefer (and have) the Rom Francis unit, as it came complete with the heavy duty guage wiring, the wiring itself was labled, and is a breeze to install.
As to the e-fan, I cut the fans outer shroud off to have just its "ring" and installed it with spacers or brackets within the stock shroud. The picture shows two brackets, but I added a third at the bottom center also. Also, make sure the efan sits within the fan shroud enough to clear the center pulley nut once the stock clutch/fan is removed.
Here's a picture to descibe this:
You'll pay more for a decent 2 speed controll then the fan itself; don't cheap out on the controller, and don't hard wire it directly to the battery!!! The good controllers will have two relays (one for the low speed for when the AC is on, and one for the high speed when the engine temp sensor that is adjustable on the good controllers). Beware! There are cheap controllers out there.
Total cost invested was $165.00. This setup is now on its third truck! I kept the old fan/electric clutch, so when I traded that truck for each new (used) one, this e-fan setup got installed into it.
And if you're worried about a used electric motor from a junk yard, don't. Mine is over 4 years old now, and still spinning. You can buy a replacement electric motor for them; just go to your parts store and ask for an electric fan motor for a Taurus; they are made by Siemens.
One good one is from Delta Current Control, the other is from Ron Francis (AR99 - $134.21 on Summit). Both have the dual relays, both have "staert up" amp protection. I prefer (and have) the Rom Francis unit, as it came complete with the heavy duty guage wiring, the wiring itself was labled, and is a breeze to install.
As to the e-fan, I cut the fans outer shroud off to have just its "ring" and installed it with spacers or brackets within the stock shroud. The picture shows two brackets, but I added a third at the bottom center also. Also, make sure the efan sits within the fan shroud enough to clear the center pulley nut once the stock clutch/fan is removed.
Here's a picture to descibe this:
02-09-2015, 08:15 AM
#20
Moderator (Ret.)
hey bucko, you seem to know your **** on this and i appreciate your input, i got a dual speed mark viii fan and a flex a lite variable speed controller,pn-31163 and going to tackle this mod next weekend. from what i understand is with the variable speed controller, there is no need to have both speeds hooked up? this is an updated controller apperently from the older style, and it has a soft start mode that draws very little at start up, and will run at 60% at set temp untill 100% is needed. so am i thinking correctly on this and i can just hook this up to the higher speed wire and let the controller do its thing? maybe throw a manual switch on the low speed for that "just in case"? thank you.
You'd attach the thick yellow to the the high speed input of the mark VIII fan, and the thick purple to the ground lead of the Mark VIII fan. The unused wire of the Mark VIII fan would be the low speed, and unused with this controller.
The only "switch" I like when it comes to large amp draw circuits, such as an e-fan is a relay. Make sure the relay in this case is a 30 amp or higher, as an e-fan can draw close to 30 amps when it's running. If you do use an on off dash type switch for one of the speeds, be sure it is only used for the relay trigger; this will be terminal 86 of the relay. This only requires a 15 amp blade type fuse, as it is only used to turn on the relay. Terminal 87 will be the output (to the fan hi or low speed, but not both!), and terminal 30 will be the fused power from the battery (install a larger fuse, like one used in stereo equipment, 30 amp instead of a 15 amp as shown in the diagram below; it was for a set of mild fog lights that did not draw over 15 amps), and terminal 85 is ground. Use the appropriate gauge wire for terminal 30 (from battery) and terminal 87 (to fan). Here's a picture of a typical automotive relay to power a device that draws a large amount of current:
Last edited by Mod (Ret.); 02-09-2015 at 08:52 AM.