Dropped Valve During Timing Job
02-14-2019, 09:50 AM
#81
Senior Member
Thread Starter
That ground strap from the firewall goes to a bracket that attaches to the back of the PS head. It's a double stud; you attach one nut to secure to the head and then another nut to attach the ground strap. Very limited access, My fat fingers had a heck of a time getting it secured. Use your cell camera to give you a visual if you don't have your fender liner off.
In addition, today I got the air intake manifold in, the fuel rail, the wiring harness in correctly so that it doesn't bind up the throttle behind the air intake, bunch of hoses in, alternator in, heater hoses, and the air filter box above the throttle body(forget what it's called).
One question. The intake manifold gasket set that I purchased comes with a large blue ring looking gasket thing that looks like it would fit around the top of the throttle body, but I never noticed any type of soft o-ring type gasket there before. If anyone knows what the heck I'm talking about, feel free to let me know.
Tomorrow I'm gonna try and get everything else in the engine bay buttoned up. (Air Conditioning, Serpentine belt, ECU, battery, fan, shroud, and the last few wiring harness connectors. Then saturday, plan on dropping the oil pan and cleaning it as the last big move before trying to crank this thing. I'm planning on leaving the crank sensor unplugged in order to turn the engine over to achieve oil pressure before this thing gets started up. I saw that on a maculuko video I believe.
In addition to the above, I'm gonna try and do a coolant flush with something to break down all that garbage in the coolant system before putting in proper antifreeze.
Thanks as always, I'll keep things updated as I go.
02-14-2019, 01:14 PM
#82
Member
I'd posted this, but doesn't seem to appear: you can run the ground strap from any metal part of the engine to any metal part of the chassis, in fact, feel free to add more. Can't have too many ground straps!! Your starter will thank you, especially in the cold weather (as well as having less PCM quirks).
Also correct on leaving the crank sensor unplugged. I didn't have a mechanical gauge hooked up and was instead relying on the dummy gauge, however after several 10-second attempts, saw no pressure on the dummy gauge, so figured the hell with it and hooked up the crank sensor and started it. If it wouldn't build pressure after a combined minute of pumping, it was never going to, confirmed by first start up being completely quiet (for valvetrain noise). It was then that I realized that the dummy gauge wouldn't register anything unless the engine was running (since confirmed by a practice false-start when I later unplugged the crank sensor, just as a test).
After pulling the pan, I also realized I'd wasted time and RTV by sealing the very bottom of the timing cover, as with the pan removed, those corners must again be scraped clean and RTV re-applied to reseal the pan. When I pulled my pan, I discovered that simply unbolting the one side of the front axle and swinging it down wouldn't provide enough clearance, as the leveling kit in mine meant that the opposite axle would bind, so I needed a second jack under that control arm in order to alleviate axle bind, but not enough to raise the truck off its blocks (with the heavy duty springs in mine, one spring can easily support the weight of the front of truck without compressing much). Not sure if any of this would apply to you.
Also correct on leaving the crank sensor unplugged. I didn't have a mechanical gauge hooked up and was instead relying on the dummy gauge, however after several 10-second attempts, saw no pressure on the dummy gauge, so figured the hell with it and hooked up the crank sensor and started it. If it wouldn't build pressure after a combined minute of pumping, it was never going to, confirmed by first start up being completely quiet (for valvetrain noise). It was then that I realized that the dummy gauge wouldn't register anything unless the engine was running (since confirmed by a practice false-start when I later unplugged the crank sensor, just as a test).
After pulling the pan, I also realized I'd wasted time and RTV by sealing the very bottom of the timing cover, as with the pan removed, those corners must again be scraped clean and RTV re-applied to reseal the pan. When I pulled my pan, I discovered that simply unbolting the one side of the front axle and swinging it down wouldn't provide enough clearance, as the leveling kit in mine meant that the opposite axle would bind, so I needed a second jack under that control arm in order to alleviate axle bind, but not enough to raise the truck off its blocks (with the heavy duty springs in mine, one spring can easily support the weight of the front of truck without compressing much). Not sure if any of this would apply to you.
Last edited by dukedkt442; 02-14-2019 at 01:53 PM.
02-14-2019, 01:24 PM
#83
Senior Member
The blue gasket is indeed for the throttle body. The old one should be inset on the intake manifold TB hole.
02-14-2019, 09:05 PM
#84
05 5.4l 3v s.crew lariat
crank sensor plug hard to get to
You can hold gas pedal to floor .it is designed to clear a flood without starting . I tried very hard to prime oil system and read factory gauge it just doesn't happen . I pre fill oil filter to reduce time for it to come up .. It can get a little messy but I put a stucco pan underneath to catch it .Now when I change oil I do the same .
Burp your coolant hose to get air out ,it takes awhile to get it done . I mix my own 50/50 with distilled water from wally world . Take into account that you never get it all out of the engine esp if you flushed it ,You don't want any tap water or well water in there it will lime up something terrible so last flush should be with some distilled water or some 50/50 home mix . Who knows what pre mix has in it .
Your coolant saver tank cap is a pressure cap it should be changed after awhile .I had never thought about it until some good guy brought it up on here .DUH! I really don't want an overheat in florida ,I may change all my hoses and water pump at 200k .Now at 199.8k.
Burp your coolant hose to get air out ,it takes awhile to get it done . I mix my own 50/50 with distilled water from wally world . Take into account that you never get it all out of the engine esp if you flushed it ,You don't want any tap water or well water in there it will lime up something terrible so last flush should be with some distilled water or some 50/50 home mix . Who knows what pre mix has in it .
Your coolant saver tank cap is a pressure cap it should be changed after awhile .I had never thought about it until some good guy brought it up on here .DUH! I really don't want an overheat in florida ,I may change all my hoses and water pump at 200k .Now at 199.8k.
02-15-2019, 10:21 AM
#85
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I'd posted this, but doesn't seem to appear: you can run the ground strap from any metal part of the engine to any metal part of the chassis, in fact, feel free to add more. Can't have too many ground straps!! Your starter will thank you, especially in the cold weather (as well as having less PCM quirks).
Also correct on leaving the crank sensor unplugged. I didn't have a mechanical gauge hooked up and was instead relying on the dummy gauge, however after several 10-second attempts, saw no pressure on the dummy gauge, so figured the hell with it and hooked up the crank sensor and started it. If it wouldn't build pressure after a combined minute of pumping, it was never going to, confirmed by first start up being completely quiet (for valvetrain noise). It was then that I realized that the dummy gauge wouldn't register anything unless the engine was running (since confirmed by a practice false-start when I later unplugged the crank sensor, just as a test).
After pulling the pan, I also realized I'd wasted time and RTV by sealing the very bottom of the timing cover, as with the pan removed, those corners must again be scraped clean and RTV re-applied to reseal the pan. When I pulled my pan, I discovered that simply unbolting the one side of the front axle and swinging it down wouldn't provide enough clearance, as the leveling kit in mine meant that the opposite axle would bind, so I needed a second jack under that control arm in order to alleviate axle bind, but not enough to raise the truck off its blocks (with the heavy duty springs in mine, one spring can easily support the weight of the front of truck without compressing much). Not sure if any of this would apply to you.
Also correct on leaving the crank sensor unplugged. I didn't have a mechanical gauge hooked up and was instead relying on the dummy gauge, however after several 10-second attempts, saw no pressure on the dummy gauge, so figured the hell with it and hooked up the crank sensor and started it. If it wouldn't build pressure after a combined minute of pumping, it was never going to, confirmed by first start up being completely quiet (for valvetrain noise). It was then that I realized that the dummy gauge wouldn't register anything unless the engine was running (since confirmed by a practice false-start when I later unplugged the crank sensor, just as a test).
After pulling the pan, I also realized I'd wasted time and RTV by sealing the very bottom of the timing cover, as with the pan removed, those corners must again be scraped clean and RTV re-applied to reseal the pan. When I pulled my pan, I discovered that simply unbolting the one side of the front axle and swinging it down wouldn't provide enough clearance, as the leveling kit in mine meant that the opposite axle would bind, so I needed a second jack under that control arm in order to alleviate axle bind, but not enough to raise the truck off its blocks (with the heavy duty springs in mine, one spring can easily support the weight of the front of truck without compressing much). Not sure if any of this would apply to you.
You can hold gas pedal to floor .it is designed to clear a flood without starting . I tried very hard to prime oil system and read factory gauge it just doesn't happen . I pre fill oil filter to reduce time for it to come up .. It can get a little messy but I put a stucco pan underneath to catch it .Now when I change oil I do the same .
Burp your coolant hose to get air out ,it takes awhile to get it done . I mix my own 50/50 with distilled water from wally world . Take into account that you never get it all out of the engine esp if you flushed it ,You don't want any tap water or well water in there it will lime up something terrible so last flush should be with some distilled water or some 50/50 home mix . Who knows what pre mix has in it .
Your coolant saver tank cap is a pressure cap it should be changed after awhile .I had never thought about it until some good guy brought it up on here .DUH! I really don't want an overheat in florida ,I may change all my hoses and water pump at 200k .Now at 199.8k.
Burp your coolant hose to get air out ,it takes awhile to get it done . I mix my own 50/50 with distilled water from wally world . Take into account that you never get it all out of the engine esp if you flushed it ,You don't want any tap water or well water in there it will lime up something terrible so last flush should be with some distilled water or some 50/50 home mix . Who knows what pre mix has in it .
Your coolant saver tank cap is a pressure cap it should be changed after awhile .I had never thought about it until some good guy brought it up on here .DUH! I really don't want an overheat in florida ,I may change all my hoses and water pump at 200k .Now at 199.8k.
Well, today I got the compressor and refrigerant pipes connected, vacuum tubes together, ECU is in, fan is in(still needs to be torqued, as I didn't want to wake*** the neighbor with an air hammer this early.), got the coolant hoses back in as well.
Tomorrow is Saturday, so I'm gonna start with the oil pan, as that is the last big pain in the butt on this job. After that's done, coolant, oil, wheel well guards going back in, fan shroud, air intake tube, battery, then prime, and see what happens...
Last edited by TheOldRaker; 02-15-2019 at 10:24 AM. Reason: Words
02-17-2019, 10:51 AM
#86
Senior Member
Thread Starter
So I got everything back together, and tried to prime the oil pressure. I disconnected the crank sensor, cranked the engine for about 10 seconds at a time, about 4 of 5 times. But I can't get oil pressure. I did connect the crank sensor, started the truck, and it ran for about 6 seconds before I got scared and turned it off. I tried this entire thing 2 times, with no luck getting oil pressure on the gauge in the truck. Any advice would be welcomed, as I'm a bit nervous to keep cranking it without fully knowing if I'm about to brick this engine.
02-17-2019, 11:27 AM
#87
Senior Member
Here's what I plan on doing.........
Get some sort of fluid transfer pump. It doesn't have to be fancy, but some sort of pump. I'll be using a $20 electric pump that I bought off ebay.
On the outlet end, connect a threaded/barbed fitting that is the same thread pitch as the oil pressure switch to that hose, remove the oil pressure switch and screw this hose in place of the oil pressure switch. On the inlet side, stick that hose in your 5 quart oil jug (or whatever your oil is in). Pump the oil in that way until you get all 7 quarts in. If you want to stop and bump the ignition switch to turn the engine a slight bit during the fluid transfer to ensure flow throughout the engine, that is fine. Once you are done, reconnect your switch and see if you have pressure.
Here's a video of a very similar (and cheaper) process that works just as well.
Get some sort of fluid transfer pump. It doesn't have to be fancy, but some sort of pump. I'll be using a $20 electric pump that I bought off ebay.
On the outlet end, connect a threaded/barbed fitting that is the same thread pitch as the oil pressure switch to that hose, remove the oil pressure switch and screw this hose in place of the oil pressure switch. On the inlet side, stick that hose in your 5 quart oil jug (or whatever your oil is in). Pump the oil in that way until you get all 7 quarts in. If you want to stop and bump the ignition switch to turn the engine a slight bit during the fluid transfer to ensure flow throughout the engine, that is fine. Once you are done, reconnect your switch and see if you have pressure.
Here's a video of a very similar (and cheaper) process that works just as well.
Last edited by qdeezie; 02-17-2019 at 11:30 AM. Reason: Forgot to mention to remove the oil pressure switch
02-17-2019, 02:29 PM
#89
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Ok, I'm a dumbass! In the depths of my ignorance, I was just excited to get this POS back on the road and working properly, that I was looking at the temperature gauge hoping for it to rise. I don't know wtf,,,, my brain just saw the little stick vertical through the water in the dash icon, and I don't know wtf.... Anyway, I went out, bought a battery charger/jumping box, because I thought the battery was getting low, and I also bought the tubing and small pump that QDeezie had mentioned, came back, decided to hop in the truck and try it out, just in case, and I looked down, and the oil pressure was right where it was supposed to be, maybe even a bit past the middle mark. That's when I realized I was looking at the wrong icon... So dumb, but I don't care, you guys have all seen a bunch of dumb sheet that I've done here.
Anyway, it bucked like crazy when I started it, so I shut it off, read the codes, cylinder 5 misfiring. I checked the wires, and I hadn't completely seated the spark plug wire on to the COP. Pushed that on, and started again, totally fine..
One thing, I did swap out the factory exhaust manifolds for some shorty headers. Do these change the sound of your engine that much? Now my truck sounds like some 21 year old kid driving around. I kind of liked the plain old quiet ride before. I guess I'm a dumbass again for putting those on without knowing they would change the sound that much.
Also, I swear I can still hear the roller followers clicking under the valve covers. I hope everything is getting oil properly in there.
Anyway, it bucked like crazy when I started it, so I shut it off, read the codes, cylinder 5 misfiring. I checked the wires, and I hadn't completely seated the spark plug wire on to the COP. Pushed that on, and started again, totally fine..
One thing, I did swap out the factory exhaust manifolds for some shorty headers. Do these change the sound of your engine that much? Now my truck sounds like some 21 year old kid driving around. I kind of liked the plain old quiet ride before. I guess I'm a dumbass again for putting those on without knowing they would change the sound that much.
Also, I swear I can still hear the roller followers clicking under the valve covers. I hope everything is getting oil properly in there.
02-17-2019, 04:12 PM
#90
05 5.4l 3v s.crew lariat
You were as nervous as I was
After cranking for many attempts over an hour or so my neighbor finally said go for it,start it ,so I did and it ran like a champ .I knew it would smoke from the hand oil I put on the cams at the last minute dripped on exhaust . The factory gauge is an idiot light ,anything over 7 psi and it reads mid scale . It will not vary it is not a real gauge its a fraud . You can't turn it over fast enough to get 7psi . The accountants caused most of this grief most engineers would want a real gauge and I would think a digital type could have been had without much cost .
Its best to change oil soon after rebuild ,start up, can be cheaper grade oil ,its just a fact junk gets in there when its open . Mine was open for weeks under a stilt house, wind and dirt go together .Treat it just like breaking in new engine .20 bucks of oil and filter is cheap insurance to get junk out of there . But I was not careless I kept holes stuffed and parts covered . You leave a hole open and sure as hell something will fall in it . Never pull your rags out unless you have to .
Like I said I prefill oil filter always now .My next fix is to install steel ratcheting tensioners in place of plastic ones that I got too late last time .Even tho I put melling 360 in it I will put 360 hv melling if I go back in . Use the mc filter with the good anti-drain back valve .The 820s is cheap at wally world ..But if later I go to reman I will swap out new pump .
My young neighbor mechanic was not familiar with the triton .so an 05 250 fell on him after a failed timing job , He picked it up cheap and I talked him thru it . It was off time by two teeth ,runs good now but I'm afraid they used aftermarket phasers .. He is poor so its a good thing . His friend had borrowed his honda and put diesel in it and it hydro locked , blew head gasket and smashed all plugs electrodes down but no valve damage fixed and sold it . Just so you know what can happen .
Its best to change oil soon after rebuild ,start up, can be cheaper grade oil ,its just a fact junk gets in there when its open . Mine was open for weeks under a stilt house, wind and dirt go together .Treat it just like breaking in new engine .20 bucks of oil and filter is cheap insurance to get junk out of there . But I was not careless I kept holes stuffed and parts covered . You leave a hole open and sure as hell something will fall in it . Never pull your rags out unless you have to .
Like I said I prefill oil filter always now .My next fix is to install steel ratcheting tensioners in place of plastic ones that I got too late last time .Even tho I put melling 360 in it I will put 360 hv melling if I go back in . Use the mc filter with the good anti-drain back valve .The 820s is cheap at wally world ..But if later I go to reman I will swap out new pump .
My young neighbor mechanic was not familiar with the triton .so an 05 250 fell on him after a failed timing job , He picked it up cheap and I talked him thru it . It was off time by two teeth ,runs good now but I'm afraid they used aftermarket phasers .. He is poor so its a good thing . His friend had borrowed his honda and put diesel in it and it hydro locked , blew head gasket and smashed all plugs electrodes down but no valve damage fixed and sold it . Just so you know what can happen .